Converting cooler false bottom help!

I currently have a 10 gallon cooler set up with this http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewi...ipment/false-bottoms/12-s-s-false-bottom.html false bottom.

I have a high temp hose connected to a nipple into the bulkead. This however casues the false bottom to raise up(grain to get under
). I want to connect a copper dip tube into this same false bottom some how..any thoughts? What parts I need to fit some 1/2 inch copper tubing into the false bottom and bulkead? I removed the middle peace and nipple so a compression fitting into the bulk head but what about into the middle of the false bottom?

help?

Jay

This is what I fabricated as a siphon pickup tube which also secures the false bottom in place for my keggle:





This would not be exactly the same as for your cooler setup, but the same basic configuration should work. The pipe union connection permits easy installation and removal of the false bottom and it holds the FB in place securely. I enlarged the center hole with a rotary file to accept the rigid copper pipe.

I think the bigger problem I will have is once I removed the nipple barb ened in the false bottom it has a very large hole I need to somehow work with..If it was small I could fit the coppper pipe as you did..

Connect the barbed end to the copper with a short length of silicone tubing and SS hose clamp if needed. Or tack weld or solder a SS washer onto the FB that has the correct (1/2" or so hole) to accept the copper dip tube.

discgolfin said:

I think the bigger problem I will have is once I removed the nipple barb ened in the false bottom it has a very large hole I need to somehow work with..If it was small I could fit the coppper pipe as you did..

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What is the diameter of the hole? You could possibly use 3/4" rigid pipe instead of the 1/2" to make it work.

How well do the false bottoms compare to SS braids and manifolds?

Cpt_Kirks said:

How well do the false bottoms compare to SS braids and manifolds?

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There is an endless debate on this. I prefer the false bottoms, but I also don't have any direct experience with the braids or manifolds. The braid is the simplest to implement and the manifolds are cheap to build. I use a direct fired RIMS setup and felt that the false bottom would facilitate the recirculaton and minimize scorching problems. I have a FB in both my MT and BK. It works for me, so I have seen no need to try anything different.

Catt22 said:

There is an endless debate on this. I prefer the false bottoms, but I also don't have any direct experience with the braids or manifolds. The braid is the simplest to implement and the manifolds are cheap to build. I use a direct fired RIMS setup and felt that the false bottom would facilitate the recirculaton and minimize scorching problems. I have a FB in both my MT and BK. It works for me, so I have seen no need to try anything different.

Click to expand...

I currently use a braid in my 5 gallon MLT. I'm in the process of building a 10 gallon and am looking at all the alternatives.

I started off with a braid in my 10gal MLT and after I ripped it during an overzealous stirring I switched to the false bottom and never looked back. Both will work but the false bottom gives me a little more peace of mind.

I think I have the issue worked out. It was much easier on my keggle because I can put the whole for the bulkhead where I want. But the cooler is much lower. I have a few compression copper pieces and just need to bend my copper to go down a bit to the bulkhead and I should be good to go.

I also liked the braid but kept crushing the braid and later read that for fly sparging a false bottom is more efficient so have not gone back to a braid since.

jay