chrisgray
Member
Steeping my grains as I write. The reports have been so good, I had to try it.
CAN'T WAIT!!
CAN'T WAIT!!
If I wanted to do this as a partial mash, could I just use 3 pounds of DME and then make up for the rest of the sugars by using Marris Otter or two row? I assume I could just input the recipe into a calculator until I got close to the original SG and FG. Sound right?
It should be the same, but here's a brewing calculator. Just plug in your information to get all the info on your beer. Estimated OG, FG, SRMs, IBUs, and ABV.
Once you've taken your batch off the yeast cake and out of the primary it's not going to ferment anymore. Secondary is really just used to clean the beer up.
You're probably going to want to make a starter and repitch some yeast, because if you bottle that now you might have some bottle bombs.
Once you've taken your batch off the yeast cake and out of the primary it's not going to ferment anymore. Secondary is really just used to clean the beer up.
You're probably going to want to make a starter and repitch some yeast, because if you bottle that now you might have some bottle bombs.
Just for reference for those brewing this recipe, I used a Wyeast 1056 activator pack, fermented at 66F and am at 1.011 after 15 days.
Note: I don't know my original gravity as I broke my hydrometer during the brew session. I now have a backup.
Once you've taken your batch off the yeast cake and out of the primary it's not going to ferment anymore. Secondary is really just used to clean the beer up.
You're probably going to want to make a starter and repitch some yeast, because if you bottle that now you might have some bottle bombs.
Just passing through, but I am wondering why you say this? Bottle bombs? The very most I have ever left any of my IPAs in the secondary (or primary even) is 3 weeks. Why would you think he is going to get bottle bombs?
EDIT: Sorry I did not see the part about the 1.030 FG. I agree if he is trying to lower the FG the starter is a good idea, and you will want to wait at least a few weeks to be safe.
I'm looking for a cheaper way to make this kit....so far I got 48+shipping from northern brewer and 44+shipping from AHS....any other places to look?
I highly recommend dry-hopping it. The Amarillo aroma is outstanding!
I always use whole hops for dry hopping and they never seem to drop to the bottom, I just rack from between the hops and the trub.
I typically dry hop for 7 days, but have have left them in for nearly 3 weeks without any ill-effects.
Thanks! Whole hops probably don't fragment like pellets.. I think there is enough suspended hop material to make it impossible to get between the hops and the trub without picking up some particulates. Will give it more settling time...
Yeah, I would give it a few more days to see. If that does not settle it you could try cold crashing it, or place a hop/grain bag over the end of your racking cane to act like a filter... I have never been too careful about it, I always heard if you get hops in the bottle its good luck
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