Strong Bitter Common Room ESB

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Brewing this one, again :) Has become my "House Ale" so a tweak here and there but the over all beer remains the same. I was looking for such a recipe a while ago when I first brewed it and your description is what sold me. And when I had it, it turned out exactly how I pictured it.

Trying with UK Progress hops to see how that works. 25 Minutes left in the mash as we speak.
 
snipper_cr said:
Brewing this one, again :) Has become my "House Ale" so a tweak here and there but the over all beer remains the same. I was looking for such a recipe a while ago when I first brewed it and your description is what sold me. And when I had it, it turned out exactly how I pictured it.

Trying with UK Progress hops to see how that works. 25 Minutes left in the mash as we speak.
Click to expand...

I'm glad you like it! Be sure to let us know how it turns out with those progress hops.
 
Just did my first all-grain 10 gallon batch yesterday using this recipe! Added 1.5 lbs of biscuit and used WLP002 for one half, WLP005 for the other. We'll see how it goes...

Thanks!
 
Last time I brewed it I used WLP002 (English Ale) and this time I tried WLP007 (Dry English Ale) - looking to get it just SLIGHTLY drier in taste. I just checked the gravity today (about week and half after pitching) and I'm still holding steady around 1.014 so not sure if I'll hit my numbers. Either way, can't wait to keg this one. Been without my "house ale" for a while and it's been in high demand!

When I did my gravity test of course I had to sample it and I am quite happy with the progress hops. Still too young to say specifically what it did or how much it changed. But being good dual use hops from the UK, I think it fits the profile of your ESB just fine. I'll let you know!
 
Hello friends,

I'm going to try this as my first all grain brew.... I wanted to use deathbrewer's all grain stove top method for this and, excuse the n00bness, but I had some questions for brewing this ...

When this is written:
KingBrianI said:
Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Mash In Add 13.75 qt of water at 173.3 F 154.0 F
10 min Mash Out Add 8.00 qt of water at 198.3 F 168.0 F
Sparge with enough water to achieve desired boil volume.
Click to expand...

Does this mean that first I "mash in" all the grains with 13.75qt water for 60 mins at 173F or at 154F (and then maintain whichever temp)? Not sure which temp to use. Second, then after the 60 mins at 173F or 154F, do I add 8qt of 198.3F or 168F water to the original 13.75qts and maintain that temp (198 or 168) for 10 mins?

Finally, is it fine to sparge at 170F? I didn't see any temperature listings for this sparge water.

Thank you for your help!
 
Poincare said:
Hello friends,

I'm going to try this as my first all grain brew.... I wanted to use deathbrewer's all grain stove top method for this and, excuse the n00bness, but I had some questions for brewing this ...

When this is written:


Does this mean that first I "mash in" all the grains with 13.75qt water for 60 mins at 173F or at 154F (and then maintain whichever temp)? Not sure which temp to use. Second, then after the 60 mins at 173F or 154F, do I add 8qt of 198.3F or 168F water to the original 13.75qts and maintain that temp (198 or 168) for 10 mins?

Finally, is it fine to sparge at 170F? I didn't see any temperature listings for this sparge water.

Thank you for your help!
Click to expand...

The hot liquor you use to mash in should be at whatever temperature it needs to be so that when it mixes with the cool grain, the temp equalizes at 154. For me, that was 173, though with your system it may be different. Since it's your first all-grain batch, you may have to just make a guess. For the mash out, you add enough water at such a temperature to bring the entire mash to 168. Alternatively, you can skip the mash out and go straight to sparge. 170 is a fine temp for sparging. If anything is still unclear or if you have any more questions just let me know and I'll be happy to help.
 
Hey Brian, I was curious to get your take on my results with this recipe. The taste has been described as "tangy" and "slightly tart" by friends. I definitely know what they are talking about; the beer is fruity with a twang rather than malty and biscuity.

I think I know the culprit, but was curious if you had any other ideas. First, when I pitched and left for primary fermentation, I accidentally let the primary get too hot and it spent the first few days in the low-to-mid-70's. With S-04, I would think that throws off way too many esters for this beer, even though esters are supposed to be present. Second, I used whole hops rather than pellets, but didn't convert the hop weights upward, so probably had too little IBUs and flavoring. I would think that also prevents true balance. Do you agree/disagree with these thoughts? Think I might have some other parts of the process to examine?

Regardless, it is a darn tasty beer. Thanks for putting this up.
 
heywolfie1015 said:
Hey Brian, I was curious to get your take on my results with this recipe. The taste has been described as "tangy" and "slightly tart" by friends. I definitely know what they are talking about; the beer is fruity with a twang rather than malty and biscuity.

I think I know the culprit, but was curious if you had any other ideas. First, when I pitched and left for primary fermentation, I accidentally let the primary get too hot and it spent the first few days in the low-to-mid-70's. With S-04, I would think that throws off way too many esters for this beer, even though esters are supposed to be present. Second, I used whole hops rather than pellets, but didn't convert the hop weights upward, so probably had too little IBUs and flavoring. I would think that also prevents true balance. Do you agree/disagree with these thoughts? Think I might have some other parts of the process to examine?

Regardless, it is a darn tasty beer. Thanks for putting this up.
Click to expand...

Hmm, without tasting the beer I can't be completely sure what the cause of your "tanginess" is but I can take a few guesses.

The hot intial fermentation could cause some off flavors, especially with s-04, but I don't know that I'd call them tangy. That could be it though.

Also, did you do the recipe all-grain or partial mash? Some people sometimes describe old extract as having a twang. Or if it was all grain, your water chemistry could have had something to do with it.

What I feel is most likely though, is that the FWH contributed a tanginess to the beer. I've noticed a citrusy tang with some hops when used as FWH. Tastes almost like the beer was spritzed with lemon juice. Did you use Fuggles and EKG hops and were they from a reputable source?

My last idea is that it could be the dark crystal. I've noticed the british dark crystal has what you might be able to call a bit of a tangy roastiness. If you have any of that malt left, chew on a few grains and see if that tastes similar to the flavor you're tasting.

Oh, and of course an infection could cause some souring.
 
KingBrianI said:
Hmm, without tasting the beer I can't be completely sure what the cause of your "tanginess" is but I can take a few guesses.

The hot intial fermentation could cause some off flavors, especially with s-04, but I don't know that I'd call them tangy. That could be it though.

Also, did you do the recipe all-grain or partial mash? Some people sometimes describe old extract as having a twang. Or if it was all grain, your water chemistry could have had something to do with it.

What I feel is most likely though, is that the FWH contributed a tanginess to the beer. I've noticed a citrusy tang with some hops when used as FWH. Tastes almost like the beer was spritzed with lemon juice. Did you use Fuggles and EKG hops and were they from a reputable source?

My last idea is that it could be the dark crystal. I've noticed the british dark crystal has what you might be able to call a bit of a tangy roastiness. If you have any of that malt left, chew on a few grains and see if that tastes similar to the flavor you're tasting.

Oh, and of course an infection could cause some souring.
Click to expand...

"Slightly sour" is probably the better descriptor, so I'm scratching my head because none of this seems like the right answer (especially since I didn't see any signs of infection). I did this AG, and used whole Fuggles and EKG from my always-solid LHBS, so I'm not sure if that is the culprit. Will have to try chewing the crystal, and definitely will let it ferment cooler next time.

I'm a little baffled, but the upshot is that I have to brew it again to "troubleshoot." Oh, the horror. :mug:
 
With all the rave reviews this recipe has gotten I've decided to try it for my second AG brew. This will be my fourth brew so I'm still a bit of a n00b and have a couple questions.

First is on the hop schedule

The Recipe said:
1.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.50 %] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 30.4 IBU
0.25 oz Fuggles [4.00 %] (20 min) Hops 2.0 IBU
0.25 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.50 %] (20 min) Hops 2.8 IBU
0.25 oz Fuggles [4.00 %] (0 min) Hops -
0.25 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.50 %] (0 min) Hops -
Click to expand...

In regards to the 0.25 oz of EKG and fuggles that go in at 0 min. Obviously add at the end of the boil, but how long should they be left in, just the time that it takes to cool to pitching temp? This will be the first brew for me that calls for adding hops at the end of the boil and I can't seem to find any threads stating how long to leave end of boil hops in the wort.

Second item is I accidentally purchased Simpson's dark crystal malt, which is only 75-85L rather than the 135-165L called for in the recipe. Given the small amount, I assume this is probably nothing to worry about and will only result in a slightly lighter color.
 
xxsn0blindxx said:
With all the rave reviews this recipe has gotten I've decided to try it for my second AG brew. This will be my fourth brew so I'm still a bit of a n00b and have a couple questions.

First is on the hop schedule



In regards to the 0.25 oz of EKG and fuggles that go in at 0 min. Obviously add at the end of the boil, but how long should they be left in, just the time that it takes to cool to pitching temp? This will be the first brew for me that calls for adding hops at the end of the boil and I can't seem to find any threads stating how long to leave end of boil hops in the wort.

Second item is I accidentally purchased Simpson's dark crystal malt, which is only 75-85L rather than the 135-165L called for in the recipe. Given the small amount, I assume this is probably nothing to worry about and will only result in a slightly lighter color.
Click to expand...

yep, just add the 0 min hops at flameout then cool normally. since they don't get boiled, little of their aromatics are lost and they contribute greatly to the aroma of the beer. the 80L crystal should be fine. your beer will end up a bit lighter in color and a little different in flavor but it will still be great.
 
KingBrianI, have you tweaked the original recipe at all. I will probably try this recipe pretty soon. Just wondering if you did any tweaks that improved it? It sounds really good reading the original recipe.
 
Julohan said:
KingBrianI, have you tweaked the original recipe at all. I will probably try this recipe pretty soon. Just wondering if you did any tweaks that improved it? It sounds really good reading the original recipe.
Click to expand...

I've actually experimented around with yeasts other than s-04 and really like burton ale and the fuller's strain for this beer. If you use the fullers strain, mash at 152 instead of 154. A lot of people are adding biscuit malt, but I much prefer this recipe without it. I've also added a bit more hops at the end and if you're looking for a hoppier ESB, that can be really nice.
 
Brain, you sir are a prince...er, king among men. I've made three batches of this and it is easily one of the best ESBs I've ever had.

:mug:
 
Just made this today. OG 1052 IBU 40(according to software) I used Fuggles and Williamette, as I didn't have any EKG. Same hopping schedule. Used S-04. The grain bill was identical(used Marris Otter) Smelled and looked great, can't wait. Thanx Brian
 
boxerbrew said:
Just made this today. OG 1052 IBU 40(according to software) I used Fuggles and Williamette, as I didn't have any EKG. Same hopping schedule. Used S-04. The grain bill was identical(used Marris Otter) Smelled and looked great, can't wait. Thanx Brian
Click to expand...

Nice, let us know how it turns out!:mug:
 
I will be starting a starter of 1968 in a couple hours and brewing this tomorrow. Unfortunately will be using domestic malts tho. Should be ok. One question out of curiosity is why you only boil for 60 min??

I am under the understanding 90 min helps any possible DMS issues? Just curious if there is a specific reason for this recipe? Thanks.
 
InYerMouth said:
I will be starting a starter of 1968 in a couple hours and brewing this tomorrow. Unfortunately will be using domestic malts tho. Should be ok. One question out of curiosity is why you only boil for 60 min??

I am under the understanding 90 min helps any possible DMS issues? Just curious if there is a specific reason for this recipe? Thanks.
Click to expand...

I've never had any problems using these malts and boiling for 60 minutes. If you're using pilsner malt in a recipe, then a 90 minute boil may be necessary. If you would like to boil this one for 90 minutes though, feel free. Also, be sure to mash around 152 since you're using the 1968. I really like that yeast for this beer, but if you don't mash lower it ends up a little too sweet.
 
Brewed this on Sat with Fuggles and Willamettes. turned out nicely at 1.057.
I switched the grain bill to 4.5# Marris Otter and 5.5# 2-row just to use up the last of my marris otter. Also used 1968 Yeast. Was bubbling away nicely in a matter of hours. Cant wait to try it!!!
 
definitely going to put this on next. I only have domestic 2-row tho, but it should be ok to use instead of MO right? Also how long should this age for after bottling.
 
2-row would work, though it won't have the "richness" or slight toastiness as MO. This beer doesn't need much age. 3 weeks from bottling is good to start drinking it.
 
I noticed some people on here using biscuit malt, would that add some of the rich toast characteristics I would otherwise lose using 2-row?

Also KingBrianI, good job on manning this thread for 2 years! this looks like a great recipe
 
jim_reaper1066 said:
I noticed some people on here using biscuit malt, would that add some of the rich toast characteristics I would otherwise lose using 2-row?

Also KingBrianI, good job on manning this thread for 2 years! this looks like a great recipe
Click to expand...

That's definitely a possibility, though I'm not personally fond of what biscuit malt does to a recipe. If you have access to amber malt, subbing about 0.25 lb of base malt for that would work well. You could also toast about a half pound of the base malt at 350 for 20-30 minutes (until it smells nice and toasty) and use that. Either way, good luck with the recipe!
 
whoo! I finally brewed my first all grain batch of beer! Pretty much used the original ingredients except I only had Crystal 60 and 120 available, it wont be a nice amber color but it'll still be beer. I decided not to worry about all the nitty gritty details like calculating sparge volume, grain adsorption, and just jump right in (totally out of character for me) but it helped me learn a lot. Next time I need to think more about my sparge volume, as I think I only had 5.5 gallons in the boil kettle. However my poor stove can barely maintain a boil even using an insulated kettle with the lid half on, so i didnt think I would lose too much wort. After cold crashing I wound up with less then 18L of wort in the carboy, including a bunch of cold break and hop material. Topped off to ~20L with clean water and hit OG 1.053. I think I need to redesign my immersion cooler and give whirlpooling a try next time, I must have had 2" of sediment in the carboy before even pitching the yeast.
 
brewed this 10 days ago and took my first sample, the sample tasted good, the bitterness was a little overwhelming, but I hope it will fade after a little ageing. Just wondering tho i had an og of 1.060 and im now at 1.021. Should i wait a few more days and take another sample, or do you think because of the higher og, that it will finish in that area?

Thanks
 
mikejamesnelson said:
brewed this 10 days ago and took my first sample, the sample tasted good, the bitterness was a little overwhelming, but I hope it will fade after a little ageing. Just wondering tho i had an og of 1.060 and im now at 1.021. Should i wait a few more days and take another sample, or do you think because of the higher og, that it will finish in that area?

Thanks
Click to expand...

It should drop a few more points with this recipe. 1.060 isn't that high. If it is still at 1.021 after a couple of days, you can gently swirl your fermenter to rouse the yeast. If you are fermenting in the bottom half of the yeast's temperature range let it warm up a few degrees.
 

Similar threads

H
Citrusy Pale Ale to clean out the freezer
Replies
7
Views
861
lumpher
lumpher
Zippy123
Feedback on recipe to split mash for two different beers
Replies
2
Views
498
Zippy123
Zippy123
D
First Recipe: 1 Gallon Maris Otter / Goldings SMaSH (Comments, suggestions?)
Replies
6
Views
459
Northern_Brewer
Northern_Brewer
PashMaddle
Brew day #2 is done.
Replies
22
Views
1K
lumpher
lumpher
Gadjobrinus
Festbier - first lager back in.
Replies
17
Views
1K
Brooothru
Brooothru
Williams Brewing 300

Latest posts

Back
Top