Mash tun W/ false bottom

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I'd ask if they include ALL STAINLESS parts or not. The pictures show a lot of brass while the instructions page show all stainless. With stainless, the price is right. With brass, it sucks. I also don't know about that slotted FB. Most people use circular hole perforations.
 
That is definitely a high price for a cooler mash tun. You can build one yourself for less than half that price, especially since you can probably find the cooler on end of season clearance right now. I'm not handy at all, and I managed to build one pretty easily. I bought the false bottom from a friend, but you can find them online, or use a manifold type setup.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Converting_a_cooler_to_a_mash_tun
 
Bobby_M said:
I'd ask if they include ALL STAINLESS parts or not. The pictures show a lot of brass while the instructions page show all stainless. With stainless, the price is right. With brass, it sucks. I also don't know about that slotted FB. Most people use circular hole perforations.
Click to expand...

From the description and picture, it looks like the only parts that are stainless are the false bottom and connecting tube.
 
The false bottom is stainless and the woven collector and tap are copper.

Is copper an issue; I thought it was OK for food use. Is copper a problem cleaning?
 
Aren't tall tuns better than long, wide, and low units for better heat retention and conversion?
 
robertbartsch said:
Aren't tall tuns better than long, wide, and low units for better heat retention and conversion?
Click to expand...

It depends. My personal experience it does not matter much at volumes we have in homebrewing. It might make a difference if you tried to mash a 5 gallon batch in a 100 quart cooler. As long as your mash volume size is 60%+ of your mash tun's volume you should be fine.

I've found that a bigger factor is mash-in liquid ratio than the shape of the tun.
 
I made a couple of versions on this for my Tun and Boiler. Pretty easy.

DSC01734.JPG
 

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