user 40839
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I don't care if they use sparkly unicorn dust to seal, if it means I don't have to wrestle with heat guns and boiling water!
Calling Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra (3/16) experts
- Thread starter amishland
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smakudwn
Well-Known Member
I too am very happy with the John Guest fittings. Makes things so much easier in my system.
cyberbackpacker
Well-Known Member
They really are "the" way to do it! The regular fittings plus a 90d fitting off of those made it a 5 minute job to set-up 4 taps. And in truth, it was probably wasn't even 5 minutes!
I never got anywhere heating the barb before insertion.
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
Depends mostly on your serving temp, and somewhat on the range of carb levels you want to be able to serve. I use 15' for most of my faucets, which allows for a very wide range of carb levels at my 40F serving temp. I also have one at over 50' for serving the occasional soda.
I bought a 100' roll from Birdman Brewing with the John Guest fittings for my keezer expansion. I went with 15' per line, and I get a great pour. I keep my keezer around 40 degrees. I keep my pressure at around 10psi i believe.
chapusin
Well-Known Member
So I installed 12 of these on the weekend (or 24 if you count both ends). Piece of cake! Thanks to however posted the swagging tool method. I heated the tool with the heat gun, then pushed the tubing in there, heated both of them for like 1-2 seconds and pushed down some more to make the opening bigger, immediately took it out of the tool and into the barb and pushed, it goes all the way in perfectly.
Now, here's some things I found.
1)If you put in the swagging tool, take it out, and heat it while it's outside, the opening will collapse again. Don't do that.
2) If you put it in the barb and it doesn't go all the way in and you heat it for more than a second at a time so it goes down, it will overheat and it will kink and you'll need to do it all over again. So the best thing to so is to make it as big as you can on the swagging tool so once its in the barb you heat it a little bit and when it cools down it contracts and seals.
The seal is so good I didn't even need my clamps. My shanks have a barb on them and I think that added 3 psi of resistance. I used 10 ft at 10 psi at 36f, perfect pours!
Now, here's some things I found.
1)If you put in the swagging tool, take it out, and heat it while it's outside, the opening will collapse again. Don't do that.
2) If you put it in the barb and it doesn't go all the way in and you heat it for more than a second at a time so it goes down, it will overheat and it will kink and you'll need to do it all over again. So the best thing to so is to make it as big as you can on the swagging tool so once its in the barb you heat it a little bit and when it cools down it contracts and seals.
The seal is so good I didn't even need my clamps. My shanks have a barb on them and I think that added 3 psi of resistance. I used 10 ft at 10 psi at 36f, perfect pours!
chapusin
Well-Known Member
Seems like, but it's not. Why not? Well first like I said, my shanks have barbs. You can't install a fitting into those. Second, my sanke couplers would need an adapter for the fitting. I can't recall exactly but price everything out and for 12 taps it was like 200 bucks. Plus, I read that the fittings add resistance and that causes foam and I don't really like push fittings, the ones on my RO system leak and they're not straight.
chapusin
Well-Known Member
I took a video for you guys
http://youtu.be/Vtt5JUp0ho0
http://youtu.be/Vtt5JUp0ho0
dang, my shanks have a fitting on them as well, didnt even think about that. where can i grab a slagging tool!?
yeah, harbor freight is close by, thanks.
you think a blow dryer would work enough? dont wanna buy a heat gun for one application.
chapusin
Well-Known Member
Yep, HB is your friend
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