TAP-A-DRAFT: first impression...

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well, it's only been 24 hours, and I already lost pressure, and the beer is barely flowing out. Still no carbonation, but I guess another dayand it'll be ready. Or maybe I should put another cartridge in? If I take a cartridge out now, will it be empty? The instructions say not to do it until there's no pressure, but wouldn't the first one I put in be empty? Anyone think it's a good idea to throw another cart in?

If you have only put in one cartridge, and already waited 24 hours, then, yes, you need to put the second cartridge in.

It did take mine 1 week to carb the last time I did it that way.(I usually bottle condition). If you are at 31-33 degrees, you can get the CO2 into solution quicker. But normal fridge temps are not that cold, so you need to be patient and wait for the CO2 to get absorbed.
 
this isn't what I had in mind when I bought it. I still love it but itsbeen 4 days and no carb yet. I'll need to naturally condition a bottle to really form a solid opinion but other than the wait, this thing is great. 3 carts so far and ilve been driking it even flat. The orange cascade pale ale coming out tastes awesome. Really can't wait to naturally prime one and get the full effect of this awesome creature
 
this isn't what I had in mind when I bought it. I still love it but itsbeen 4 days and no carb yet. I'll need to naturally condition a bottle to really form a solid opinion but other than the wait, this thing is great. 3 carts so far and ilve been driking it even flat. The orange cascade pale ale coming out tastes awesome. Really can't wait to naturally prime one and get the full effect of this awesome creature

I just looked at the sticky for carbing:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/keg-force-carbing-methods-illustrated-73328/

The TAD does 15 psi max, so it's gonna take a full week to even get close. I've started to put my fridge at 33 degrees(absorbs faster), put one cartridge in, wait 36 hours, put a second in, then wait a week. I'll get a glass or two before I have to add a second cartridge, and then wait a few more days. Even then, it's not quite right until a couple of weeks.
 
I know I'm not cabledawg but here ya go http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/tap-a-draft-system.html

the system is cheaper at midwest and they sell a 4 pack of bottles for 25 i think

Thanks Mikeysab, I think I was jumping the gun a bit and hoping that cabledawg meant New Brunswick, not northernbrewer when he mentioned NB, unfortunately I'm Canadian, really tough to find supplies here, guess that's the trade off for 6 months of winter?!?!?!?
 
I'm wondering if I made a mistake by putting an NO2 cartridge in the TAD? The beer is a Hefe - so the NO2 doesn't help the flavor (or "creamy head" for that matter). Also - it begs the question: If a CO2 capsule is half exhausted when you put in an NO2, are you now changing the carbonation of the beer by altering the equilibrium of relative gas pressures? Also - does the NO2 absorb as readily into the beer as the CO2? If so, is the NO2 taking up some of the inter-molecular volume normally occupied by CO2? Again, if so - does that mean that the presence of a significant pressure of NO2 prevents the beer from carbonating to the same degree that it would if the NO2 were absent? :(
 
I emptied my first TAD bottle last night, it worked flawlessly. I carbed the beer naturally in the bottle, then put the tap on, put in one cartridge and sat it in the fridge. The next night I got ready to drink some, and added the second cartridge. 100% flawless execution and all the beers were pulled fine and looked and tasted good!

I'll be ordering more bottles and every brew I do will get at least one TAD bottle maybe 2.
 
Has anyone ever attempted to add a longer exit tube, bypassing the TAD valve, and attach their TAD system to a different type of tap? Like a real faucet, or a plastic "cobra" type faucet? I'm wondering if this would work.... hmmm...
 
I am working on a different adapter for the tap-a-draft system. just testing it now and working with a air conditioning company to help make it a DIY project with cost and easy to clean in mind. The idea isn't to use the 8gram CO2 carts but a simple paintball tank of 20 or 24 oz. This will be a forced carb system , the original version works great and lets you use TAD to force crab beer/ale/soda.. but the idea is total cost to make a mini kegging system to get to the beer or soda easy quick and not brake the bank making a keg system of any sort. This will also works with cony kegs with one minor change.
Still working on it but in the next couple of weeks i hope to have it up and show the full build , parts list, cost at time of build, and the end result. the full reason was not everyone wants 5 gal of beer that wont get used. The idea is based on a couple of tapcap ideas on the net. But want to make it a full DYI that will stand up to use and cleaning. I love the TAD bottles and the tap for it when out from home. The cost for the small CO2 bulbs is a bit to much for everyday use. So with that in mind and needing to support only small batch brewing I chose 20 to 24 OZ paint ball bottles. There refill around here for 2x24oz IE 3pound charge is 8bucks, a 5 pound bottle charge here is 20. so co2 cost is cheaper..

The system will be made up of paintball tank for co2, standard regulator , the redesigned Tapcap , the TAD bottles, and for starters a simple cobra tap.

A second project is in the works for making pressurized brew cap for doing small batch. this should allow one to ferment in bottle then add the tap cap for dispensing using only one bottle.
 
I am working on a different adapter for the tap-a-draft system....

I'm very interested in how this goes. I really like the TAD, but don't like the little CO2 carts either. If I put 2 in to begin with, it's too much. If I wait until I'm about 1/2-way through a bottle to add the second, it stirs up too much sediment, and often, I have to add a 3rd cart just to get the last bit out. I think the beer gets over carbed when fresh carts are added (even though I naturally charged, the cart's "super charge" it) and does not get "just right" until several pulls and days later.

I would love to be able to use a paint ball canister (which will still fit on the shelf with my TAD bottle) and a regulator (to get the carbonation just right). Then I could just keep the 8 gram carts for my seltzer charger :)

Let me know how it goes, looking forward to seeing your results.
 
Me too! Kinda surprised that TAD doesn't see the market potential and bring out it's own adapter...........
 
Well NPT thread stinks. And finding G 1/4 BSPP fitting are one not ava. or two 20 bucks for them need to find a place to order them without the ungawdly cost.
 
Just got my Tap-A-Draft in the mail the other day from NB. I also ordered 3 extra caps because I plan on making my own carbonation caps . I am kegging my batch next week and I will force carb the beer then transfer over to tap a draft bottles. Once in the tap a draft bottles I will add CO2 to the two bottles that I wont be using and hook the third up to the tap. Do you guys think the PET bottles will keep my beer carbonated? I filled them with air today and there were no leaks. Hope this works!
 
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Ok . got the parts. and got a perfect fit in the thru cap part. the cost is good and its a full push out of the bottle like a corny keg.. all parts washable and it is looking good.. waiting for regulator to pressure test the whole thing. Parts used are at the local home store so its easy to get. will have pictures so that all can see , parts list and assembly instructions. Sorry for delay went thru 4 different set ups and trails to get it to work right, be able to get the danged parts!! and be able to find them.. this system will carbonate and allow for dispensing thru a cobra tap and line. or can hook line to a thru fridge/cooler tap.. also when done this will allow easy trasnport or switching to other bottles as needed. I am setting up a small web server to host the pics and instructions as i finish this. Again sorry for the delay..
 
Ok . got the parts. and got a perfect fit in the thru cap part. the cost is good and its a full push out of the bottle like a corny keg.. all parts washable and it is looking good.. waiting for regulator to pressure test the whole thing. Parts used are at the local home store so its easy to get. will have pictures so that all can see , parts list and assembly instructions. Sorry for delay went thru 4 different set ups and trails to get it to work right, be able to get the danged parts!! and be able to find them.. this system will carbonate and allow for dispensing thru a cobra tap and line. or can hook line to a thru fridge/cooler tap.. also when done this will allow easy trasnport or switching to other bottles as needed. I am setting up a small web server to host the pics and instructions as i finish this. Again sorry for the delay..

Spectacular! Looking forward to seeing your design.
 
Heres the first Immage
WEB_Beer_0001.jpg
 
http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af351/saberbeast/Tap Cap System/WEB_Beer_0002.jpg

http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af351/saberbeast/Tap Cap System/WEB_Beer_0003.jpg

http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af351/saberbeast/Tap Cap System/WEB_Beer_0004.jpg


The other views for the TapCap attempt..

The Gas in will be shortened.. and the compression fitting will be changed to match the top. Lowes didn't have the other piece to fit the side so had to adapt..

They thru the cap part is a 29CENT!!! fitting that was stopping me from making this tight and fit the bottle.. Glue and a custom cut washer will make sure that part is gas tight.

now to get a good spade bit , and new parts. so I can document the full build and where to get parts with cost . Now to find a place to tank up my co2. using 20 oz bottles for 2.50 fill here. 5lb= 5x16oz=80oz co2 cost is 20 bucks for a cost per 20oz of 5 $ a fill , so going paint ball bottles is half price.
 
just a follow on note.. the tee is heavy sch80 , all solder is silver solder and fittings are yellow brass not red. the main tube is pex. the shrader valve and gas connect are a/c fittings . I can pull the shrader connect and gas stays IN the bottle. letting me move the gas around to what will be a carbonizer bottle with co2 stone. As well as a transport cap with a 35lb pressure bleed off in the cap. all using the same base parts to make it easy to reconfigure and get parts for if you wish to make your own.
 
I've been thinking seriously about picking up one of these or the PET bottle version.

How long will TAD keep beer good assuming I filled it up, carbed it, and sat it in the corner to age.
 
I've been thinking seriously about picking up one of these or the PET bottle version.

How long will TAD keep beer good assuming I filled it up, carbed it, and sat it in the corner to age.

TAD bottles keep beer just as long as glass, AFAIK. I've not aged a long barley wine or some such, however. Those might make a difference. Even though PET is fairly non-permeable, it can't be as good as glass. Then again, it's the closure that is most likely to cause oxidation over time.

Rich
 
Also there is the heavy duty TAD caps. that have a true gasket in the top they seal good thats what i am using for the TapCap. PET bottles do allow some o2 in to the bottle but with a good seal and carbed it should last a lot longer then the tin plate mini kegs as they tend to rust if the coating is cracked.
 
Cool. Then I might pick up a set of the PET TADs with the heavy duty caps out of my next check and test it out on my Export.
 
breew...thanks for posting pics. Will you be able to share the parts list? I really want to try this...it looks great! How/where does the tap hook into this? its a cobra tap right?
 
Getting the parts list together. I didn't have all the numbers so have to go back to get all the costs. but over all it was a heavy sch80 tee threaded 1/2 fip and 2x 1/2 fip to 3/8 compression fittings. 1 30 inch pex water tube <the long gray tube from a toilet wall valve to tank,<the 30 was like 50cents cheaper then the 20 inch > The cap is the heavy tap a draft cap. The thru cap connections is from the ELECTRICAL conduit isle <this is the part that cost 29 cents and made the heavy plastic set up fit perfectly in the center of the top leaving JUST enough space to slide it into the neck and the bottle to get to the gasket in the cap>, its a 1/2 slip to 1/2 thread <but its straight thread , so GLUE for abd+pvc+cpvc is needed i use a red can not the black[black is for pvc/cpvc only].. for it , a large rubber washer thin that is cut to fit just over the threads that come thru it cap and outer side is trimmed to match the 1/2 tee overall size.. i use Teflon pipe dope vice tape as it has always provided better seal and release if ever needed , a small tube will last for years .. they hardest parts to get are the AC shraider valve and the valve pin pusher attachment. <get extra small o rings for it mine came with 2, other gas hookups are possible.
The hose will be 3/8 ID not OD and that goes to the cobra or you can use a thru door tap. I use pliers ring clamps not screw clamps as i have had many problems over the years with the dang things, one being bunching. the pliers ring clamps are a bit harder to find but work very well as they have a large clamp area and apply pressure 360. I also, for perm connections , heat the tubing for a bit in very hot +180F water then slip it on the fitting. clamp and let cool, it tends to form to the part better :) also for the liquid out you can use a 3/8 od copper tube. and silver solder on a 3/8 barb on the end for tubing. its very adaptable to any configuration. that's what it was made to do is give you a standard base to let all the needs hopefully be adapted to easily.

Also for cutting the washer and top , i was looking at a couple of pieces of copper tubing heated so melt perfect holes vice drilling. other then stink and a good scrubbing. any thoughts over drilling the cap? Don't use a cheap paddle bit use one with ears for MUCH better cut in the cap ..

Need to check out a beer facet washer and maybe find a good supplyer for washer so i can build a few of these for my bottles , maybe put on a quick disconect from the liquid out to tap so it can be washed and connected back up very easly.. thats the idea for a tap right?? :) and thanks guys .. ill get more up this weekend if possible.
 
I see there is copper for the liquid out tube...isn't that a problem with finished beer? I thought only stainless should be used with finished beer or else it will eat the copper?
 
What copper.. where? On the side is the gas in. There is nothing that touches the brew but pex and pet plastics for the top of the tee is beer/soda out.
 
ok, I think I got it wrong...I took:
"also for the liquid out you can use a 3/8 od copper tube. and silver solder on a 3/8 barb on the end for tubing. its very adaptable to any configuration. that's what it was made to do is give you a standard base to let all the needs hopefully be adapted to easily. "

that to mean the copper was the liquid out. I think I see now that the copper tube is the gas in.

What does the little screw valve at the right angle of the gas in assemby do? Does that allow you to remove the tank and not lose co2?

have you hooked this setup up yet and tried it? It looks great, I am dying to do this. Thanks for posting what you have and hope you will be doing a full pic of the setup when done.
 
No i haven't hooked it up :) waiting for my co2 bottles and regulator to get in <today i hope> and have to get them filled.. , need regulator in to ..but tested with bike pump to 60 psi and it worked good. no leaks that i found in mine for over the 48hours i tested and <made fizzy water> then released. 60 psi is the max i tested to as the system is meant for no more then 30 to 40 psi and to dispense at 2 to 15 psi.. and most co2 regulators blow off at around 55psi..

They little screw valve is a shraider ac valve adapter. and YES it does leave co2 in the bottle .. its like what they use for taping a high pressure ac line. connect and then screw the little knob in a bit and co2 flows in from your tank but want to remove it.. one just unscrews the valve depressor and then unscrews the co2 off the bottle and it keeps the co2 in the bottle :) I wanted to make the co2 line able to be moved easily. the valve is like a tire fitting BUT thicker. uses the same valve cores but has a thicker brass body that has a flare like end that fits the rubber oring in the valve depressor..

note working on web site with pics on my stuff.. just gota figure out how to run the small web server on my site..
 
Working on the pages and pictures now ..

Edit got the system up , no tap still but sealed it and it holds pressure nicely. Trying to find a place that lets you upload web pages <ie free hosting with no domain> i can get the web server to work on my system

Once fully up will make a batch of cream soda to test the forced carb..
 
Just want to add my first impressions, after using a Tap-a-draft for about 2 months now for 3-4 bottles.

- I get severe oxidation after 7 days on tap. I don't know why, because it doesn't seem like the seal is leaky, and the CO2 pressure should prevent intake of air, but the oxidation has been distinct and consistent on every use. The beer starts tasting stale, and odd, and I sometimes have to dump 1/2 of the bottle (~3L, or 8 12oz beers).
The bottles were all carb'd using priming sugar, so that should have displaced most of the O2 from bottling time I would think (I would assume it would work in the same way that when I bottle in glass bottles I don't get oxidation even though there is some head space in the 12oz or 22oz bottle).

- 7 days is a pretty short time - it means unfortunately my Tap-a-draft is only really useful for parties or if I plan to have 16 beers in one weekend (not impossible but pretty hard to do since usually I go out somewhere on the weekend).

- Priming the bottles doesn't seem to help. I still end up using 4 CO2 cartridges to keep the beer carb'd for 7 days. The first 2 basically get it up to serving pressure over the course of a day or two in the fridge, and the last 2 are to maintain that as I drink the beer. So I'm going to try some unprimed bottles now.

So in summary, Tap-a-draft is great for parties, but is a poor substitute for an actual keg - ie, it is not a suitable "mini-keg" for people like me that don't have room for a kegerator.
 
You've got something wrong with yours or how you're using it then. I've had a bottle tapped in my fridge for a month or more and had no issues with oxidation whatsoever.
 
I don't have any issue with oxidation. Granted about 7-10 days is how long I usually have a bottle tapped, but the last pint tastes just like the first one. I do go through about 4 cartridges in the course of dispensing a bottle, naturally primed bottles.
 
Hmm, weird. I don't know how it's happening then. I screw the tap-a-draft on very tightly, and I don't hear any air escaping from it.
 

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