Hops substitution pointers?

I searched, I read all 167 titles, I opened about a dozen threads, I have a 'different' question. What I am about to do is make sequential batches of EdWort's Haus Pale Ale. How close to I need to get my HBUs to call it a good substitute, and are there hop varieties I need to be careful of?

FWIW EdWort's recipe calls for 2oz of 6.6% Cascade hops. Well, my Cascade hops were labelled 5.9%, so instead of 13.2HBUs I got 11.8 HBUs in the bucket. Am I going straight to a hot place for that? Next time I'll buy 12.5 or 13.0 HBUs worth instead of 2.00 ounces I guess.

What is "close enough" so that I can think and speak from experience about hop varieties after I pay some more dues? Do I want maybe 11.5 to 13.5 HBUs per batch? 11.7 to 11.9 HBUs?

Also, what do you really think about switching around between leaf, plug and pelleted hops? So far I think I like the flavor, the beer better if I use whole/leaf hops. They are easier to strain out too.

Looking at my 2.5% Saaz I am going to need about five ounces, but then I will know how they compare...

Thanks

It's not just bitterness hops add to beer, it's also flavor and aroma. Swapping out simcoe for 5 times as much saaz, for example, is going to change the brew immensely.

With all that said, go for it!

What is "close enough" so that I can think and speak from experience about hop varieties after I pay some more dues?

Click to expand...

You'll just have to see for yourself. I've noticed big differences in the lower ranges (i.e., huge diff between 20IBU and 40IBU) but smaller differences in higher ranges (i.e., between 40IBU and 60IBU)

Use this free recipe tool for at least a general idea of what kind of bitterness you'll get: http://www.recipator.com/

Also, in my opinion there is only a small difference between whole leaf hops and hop pellets. Use whatever you are most comfortable with.

If I understand your question is has more to do with the exact # of HBUs, right?

What you need to do is this: if your AA% is lower than the recipe you need to divide the lower into the higher % to get a more accurate weight to use. If your AA% is higher then divide the higher into the lower % for the right measurement.

You question is is really timely......

I brewed Ed's recipe on 18 Jun 07. Since my Cascade hops were 5.8%AA my measurements are different from his, but the HUBs are basically the same.

To list it I used: 1.15 oz at 60, .55 oz at 30, .25 oz at 15, and .25 oz at 5.

I also made other (grain) changes based upon what I had at the time.

My notes from 20 Jun to 25 Aug include in no particular order: Very hoppy. (I am not a hop head and therefore not very pleased with the results). Flowery hoppiness, , nice citrus flavor, gravity too high, roused yeast, added a sprinkling of Safbrew-33, somewhat fruity, smooth dry finish, light body, added gelatin, clearing nicely, nice light color, citrus flavor not overpowering as in the past, dry finish.

I kegged on 22 Jul and my notes indicate that as of 25 Aug 07 I have not tasted it again....that is until tonight.

Here are my notes for tonight...this brew is nice and light, very clear, a suprisingly nice citric flavor that is very enjoyable. It has a soft dry finish. Aging has really improved this brew and changed my mind about citrusy Cascade hops. I am still not a hop head looking for bitterness, but the flavor is addictive.

Other changes I made were that I steeped 2 lbs of Vienna Malt and 8 oz of Crystal in 1 gal water for 20 mins and my boil was 2 gals of water. I boiled for 60 mins and removed the pot from the heat. Afterwards I added 4 lbs 8 oz of Extra Light DME and steeped for 10 mins before topping off to 5.25 gals.

But...in the end this is one very nice brew that I will brew again. Thanks Ed. :rockin:

Hopunion Directory of Hop Data

and

Hop Data at BrewMonkey, the HTML version of the Hopunion info.

Both are good resources for hop descriptions and substitution ideas.

Chad

10 IBU is the minimum difference most people can taste, so using 5.9 AA hops instead of 6.6% will not be noticeable.