American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

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Ed.

After experimenting, I have come to the conclusion that you were correct. I do not like the flavor that Vienna gives to a beer.

What would you sub for Vienna in this recipe? CaraPils? - more 2ow and 10L?

Thanks Ed.
T
 
Twenty five pages of happy brewers can't be wrong! :mug:

I went to the LHBS at lunch and picked up the ingredients to do a PM version of this recipe. I'm looking forward to it! This will be my first full boil brew and will be my second keg.

Other than doing a PM version, my only change is to use .5 oz magnum for bittering.
 
I brewed this after the success of your other simple recipe and i must say again i am amazed. I may just have to move down your recipe list.

I was a bit surprised however. I wasn't expecting such an intense hop aroma and flavor from an apparent house ale. But man, it has a fantastic hop flavor and a room filling aroma! And its such a fast brew as well!

Edwort does it again! Thank you!
 
When asked if it was OK to go from primary to bottle EdWort said:

EdWort said:
If you want. I would leave it on the yeast for at least 10 days


Who has gone from primary to bottles with good results, and what was the schedule (and temps)?

Fantastic smell coming from my fermenter bubbler, btw!
 
Just finished brewing this, my first AG as with many others here
No real issues, hit my temps dead on and my equipment worked great.
I ended up boiling off more that I expected, and probably got under 5 gallons.
My OG was 1.058 (prob due to the extra boil off)
Cant wait to try this!!
 
Just did this as my first all grain, man all grain takes a lot more time, but I hope it's worth it in the end. I had a good time regardless, currently coming off of a deschutes abyss buzz as we speak, man that's a good beer, too bad it cost $14.95 for 22oz!!!!
 
almost 6 hours and no activity, I know I should RDWHAHB but thats tough to do :)

It looks like I maybe ended up with 4 gallons, hard to tell in a 6 gallon carboy, but it looks low, going to have to figure out where it all went
 
strohs said:
almost 6 hours and no activity, I know I should RDWHAHB but thats tough to do :)

It looks like I maybe ended up with 4 gallons, hard to tell in a 6 gallon carboy, but it looks low, going to have to figure out where it all went

You have a high gravity beer, so it may take a bit longer to get started. Relax...

It will be bubbling when you wake up in the morning.
 
EdWort said:
You have a high gravity beer, so it may take a bit longer to get started. Relax...

It will be bubbling when you wake up in the morning.


Sounds good

What do you recommend for increasing the amount I end up with in the fermenter? Increase the mash size? The batch sparge sizes?
 
strohs said:
Sounds good

What do you recommend for increasing the amount I end up with in the fermenter? Increase the mash size? The batch sparge sizes?

Did you batch sparge?
 
Okay, so I made this, kind of.

I subbed .25 lbs Crystal 90 for the Crystal 10, which gave it a beautiful amber color.

I then hopped as follows:

1 oz Cascade @ 60
1/2 oz German NB @ 30
1/4 oz German NB @ 15
1/4 oz Cascade @ 5

I then pitched half with American ale yeast and half with German ale yeast.

I bottled straight from primary after 7 days. The German is slightly hazy and is drinkable, but not outstanding. The American is crystal clear, and tasty as hell. Thanks for the bit of inspiration. Plus, I have finally decided that after several attempts, I just do not like German Ale yeast.

In summary, definitely a good recipe to play with.
 
strohs said:
Yes, two sparges at 6.5 quarts each

For a 5.5 gallon batch, I dough in with 3.5 gallons of water. At the end of the mash, I add 1.5 gallons of 180 degree water, stir, then vorlauf & drain to kettle. I then add another 3.5 gallons of 170 degree water, stir, wait ten minutes, stir, then vorlauf & drain again. You will end up with about 7 gallons in your kettle and after about an hour, you should finish with about 5.5 gallons of wort.
 
My brew partner and I like to purchase a six pack of a beer of the same style we are brewing. We each enjoy one of those beers on brew day, after we take the OG reading. We can examine color. We then will have one when we bottle. And the last is as a side by side taste when the bottles are ready.

Although it is easier to do this if we are brewing a clone like we did yesterday, what would be a good national commercial comparison to Ed Wort's Pale Ale?
 
EdWort said:
For a 5.5 gallon batch, I dough in with 3.5 gallons of water. At the end of the mash, I add 1.5 gallons of 180 degree water, stir, then vorlauf & drain to kettle. I then add another 3.5 gallons of 170 degree water, stir, wait ten minutes, stir, then vorlauf & drain again. You will end up with about 7 gallons in your kettle and after about an hour, you should finish with about 5.5 gallons of wort.


Thats almost identical to what I did, however I split the batch of 3.5 gallons up into 2 batches
I will just bump that up to batch sparges of 2 gallons next time and see what happens.
I wonder if the cold temperature yesterday (around 40) contributed to the excess boiloff.

Also there is still no activity.
Its a little colder in my basement than I thought it would be which might not be helping.
The fermometer is reading around 62. I kicked the heat up and I am going to give it a couple more hours, if still nothing than I am going to re-pitch.

The 2nd batch that I made yesterday after this one, a Alaskan Brewing Co. Amber Ale clone, is fermenting away nicely
 
Gammon N Beer said:
Although it is easier to do this if we are brewing a clone like we did yesterday, what would be a good national commercial comparison to Ed Wort's Pale Ale?

The closest thing I have found after someone told me, was Real Ale's Fireman's #4 Blonde. It's the closest I've tried, but is lighter on the hops.
 
Was teaching a friend to brew this weekend, we did 3 batches of beer. 1 Extract, 1 Extract with specialty and late addition & one all grain. We also did a Apflwein.

We modified this recipe to use the stuff I had on hand.

BeerSmith Recipe Printout - www.beersmith.com
Recipe: Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale
Brewer: SuperiorBrew
Style: American Pale Ale
TYPE: All Grain

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 6.5 gal
Estimated OG: 1.052 SG
Estimated Color: 5.4 SRM
Estimated IBU: 30.0 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 80.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
8 lbs Pale Malt (Rahr 2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 76.19 %
1 lbs Crystal 15 German (15.0 SRM) Grain 9.52 %
1 lbs Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 9.52 %
8.0 oz CaraFoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 4.76 %
1.00 oz Cascade Pellet 6.9% [6.90 %] (60 min) Hops 23.2 IBU
0.50 oz Cascade Pellet 4.2% [4.20 %] (30 min) Hops 5.4 IBU
0.50 oz Cascade Pellet 4.2% [4.20 %] (5 min) Hops 1.4 IBU
1 Pkgs Nottingham Yeast (Lallemand) Yeast-Ale


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 10.50 lb
----------------------------
Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Mash In Add 3.28 gal of water at 171.2 F 154.0 F
 
Well I warmed it up to about 68 for a few hours and no activity
So I pitched a second packet of yeast, and 5 hours later still 0 activity.
Anybody have any suggestions? I have no idea whats wrong with this beer

meanwhile, my amber ale is fermenting like crazy right next to this one, I am stumped...
 
Hmm, that is funny I just made my first batch of this on Saturday, after about 3 hours a had quite a bit of activity. I have never used dry yeast or made an all grain for that matter and I must say I was quite amazed at how volatile the yeast activity is. I think I pitched around 70 degrees I would think 68 would be just fine. Did you aerate the batch before pitching the yeast?
 
Bottled mine Saturday, O.G. was a little high 1.056 and F.G. was 1.010 thats 6% abv I hope there is enough yeast left to carbinate in the bottle as I didn't repitch any more.Been 2weeks primary and 10 days secondary berfore botteling and looked nice and clear. How long should I let this age as the abv is on the high side? This was my first all grain brew,
 
It will take 3 weeks to properly condition. Give the bottles a twist every 3 days. Let it age for a few more weeks after it's carbonated. Sampling a bottle each week will let you taste the difference.
 
Well, it finally took off sometime last night and is still going strong now.
Still stumped as to why it took 30+ hours to start.
cant wait to taste it!


Nor can I wait to brew it again, I want to nail this one :)
 
Well, The brew together went well and the house ale is well on its way to being beer. At first I thought that it was going to be a little dark, however, it has gotten lighter in the last day. Hmm... I thought it was infected... so I tasted it... it is fantastic! I can't wait until it is finished and bottled. I will keep you updated. Thanks for the fabulous recipe. Sean.
 
strohs said:
Well, it finally took off sometime last night and is still going strong now.
Still stumped as to why it took 30+ hours to start.
cant wait to taste it!


Nor can I wait to brew it again, I want to nail this one :)
My guess, is that your yeast packs were low in viable yeast. The process that is used to dry yeast is harsh to say the least, but the companies that do it, have worked out a pretty effective way to minimize the losses, this however is still not perfect, so every once in a while you get a packet that takes a while. Have hart though, the reason that dry yeast are so vigorous, is that only the strong survive, leaving only the best to ferment your beer. This is also why there is a small amount of inconsistency between the lots of yeast. Sometime the mutations that are normal to yeast adaptation are expressed in a variance in the flavor. These days though it is getting tough to tell between dry and liquid, so brew on and have no worries.

I should also state that there are many reasons that it took so long, this is my guess.
 
slnies said:
My guess, is that your yeast packs were low in viable yeast. The process that is used to dry yeast is harsh to say the least, but the companies that do it, have worked out a pretty effective way to minimize the losses, this however is still not perfect, so every once in a while you get a packet that takes a while. Have hart though, the reason that dry yeast are so vigorous, is that only the strong survive, leaving only the best to ferment your beer. This is also why there is a small amount of inconsistency between the lots of yeast. Sometime the mutations that are normal to yeast adaptation are expressed in a variance in the flavor. These days though it is getting tough to tell between dry and liquid, so brew on and have no worries.

I should also state that there are many reasons that it took so long, this is my guess.


I would venture to guess that you are correct based off how quickly it took off after I pitched the 2nd packet.
 
It is just another reason to hydrate your dry yeast first. You can see if it's viable before you pitch it.
 
So Ed never got back to you on my HPA. I loved it!! It came out great with the safale us-05! Although I have nothing to compare it to...I would say it came out spot on for a APA. It was definitely a house favorite!

I did enjoy it much more after a few weeks in the keg. The taste was amazing!

Going to brew it up again this weekend and I'll try the Nottingham's to see the difference.

Cheers Ed and thanks again for a simple and great recipe!
 
Mine was great after a week in the bottle...I had to hide it from myself to let it properly condition.

Thanks, Ed. My first AG brew was a total success! I'll be making this one over and over...
 
Intro

I have come around to HB_99s point of view re: late *ME adition. As a beginner I put all my extract in at the beginning, than I moved to adding the extract wtih 15 minutes left, now I am adding *ME at flameout. So I gotta redo my hop U calcs, since the (15) and (5) hops will be in before rather than after the *ME.

If you want to make this fine PM/steep recipe and add your *ME with 15 minutes left in the boil, go read this post:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=432568&postcount=120



Background
I really like this PM recipe. I gave lots of it away over Christmas with varying amounts of hops to see what my friends do and don't like. My current grain bill is 2# Vienna + 0.5# Crystal 10L. Steep at mash temps (150-155°F) for 60 minutes. Sparge out to three gallon boil, 6.6-7.0# light LME at flameout, locked under Nottingham Yellow two to three weeks.

Hops I have been playing with. I do my U calcs with a pencil. I like the Tensith just cause it makes more sense to me than the other methods available.

I use the table on realbeer: http://realbeer.com/hops/FAQ.html#units



Tensith for the AG version

Per EdWort's original recipe on page one post one this thread, using I think it was 6.6% Cascades, on the Tensith table he is getting:

20.8 IBUs (60)
7.9 IBUs (30)
2.6 IBUs (13)
1.4 IBUs (5)

Total 32.7 IBUs to the fermenter - ass/u/me constant 5.5 gallon boil at 1.050.


Tensith for the PM brewer with LME at flameout to match AG hopU

If your mini-mash gives you 3.0 gallons of 1.030:

5.43 HBU (60)
2.68 HBU (30)
1.37 HBU (15)
1.56 HBU (5)

If your mini-mash gives you 3.0 gallons of 1.040:
5.95 HBU (60)
2.93 HBU (30)
1.50 HBU (15)
1.70 HBU (5)

Should put you at 32-33 IBUs in the fermenter. Note the amounts above are in HBUs, so you can use whatever hops and a scale. In practice I round up to the next tenth of an ounce...

So I made it and I liked it and a lot of friend's liked it too. It is a very quaffable brew. But I wanted more. So I stepped up the hops a couple times.

I made one batch using the same 13.2HBUs for the AG version, only with late LME, and I liked that. If you like IPAs, feel free to make this with *ME at flameout while following the AG hopping schedule, HBU for HBU. Bittering, flavor and aroma should stay in nice balance, esp if you maintain your kettle volume. If you don't maintain your kettle voume, your U will slip as the gravity in your kettle increases, so you end up losing hop flavor. Cheaper to add water to maintain volume...less math too-> and the balance EdWort has given us is really really good.

Poindexter's F-W Pale hopU clone

I will probably someday make this recipe again. I used Saaz and Hallertau for (60) and (30), with Chinook for (15) and (5). Corrected for LME at flameout, this schedule should yield ~ 54.5 Tensith IBUs on a 1.035 boil held at 3.0 gallons -> but diluted out to 5.0 gallons at the fermenter, not 5.5.

7.25 HBU (60)
6.40 HBU (30)
2.50 HBU (15)
2.12 HBU (5)


First Wort Hop
For my next batch I am going to lift the hops from Biermuncher's FWH IPA recipe onto this grain bill. I just lifted it HBU for HBU. I am mashing low to run my fermentable OG up a little bit (dough in at 152).

For the FWH I am using:

6.0 HBU Willamette
3.9 HBU Amarillo
2.6 HBU Fuggles
1.8 HBU Hallertau

And I added a man pinch of Amarillo to the mash tun because of the yellow dots in the bottom of the bag.

For (1):
3.9 HBU Amarillo (+ 1 man pinch)
1.8 HBU Hallertau
2.6 HBU Fuggles
 
Ed,

Thanks for this great recipe. For anyone who is thinking of going all grain, this is a great recipe to start on.

M:mug:
 
sorry if this has been covered, but I am too lazy to read through all the posts.

I am planning on doing this recipe, with a different bittering hop(centennial). Our batch sizes are 23.5 litres (about 6 gallons?). For the later hop additions, should we bump it up to 1/2 oz at 15 and 5 or is that going to put the flavour/aroma out of whack?

Thanks
 
This is going to be my first AG beer! I can only get 5.5% hops, so this is lowering the ibu's to 31 instead of 39. I bought another ounce of cascade to make up the difference, should I add the bulk of it @ 60min (i only need a half ounce to make up the diff) or spread it out? With the hop shortage should I use the entire ounce? I don't want to be wasteful, but I don't want to over-experiment with my first batch. Thanks.
 
Just wanted to say thanks for the great recipe, EdWort! I also took the plunge and popped my AG cherry with this one. It was too easy! I used a friend's 5 gal. water cooler with a SS braid and managed to get 81% efficiency! This was even after spilling a quart or two of wort when dumping into my primary bucket :D

One question, when you use leaf hops, do you squeeze the wort out of the hops after the boil? I have a huge nylon bag that fits the bucket, so its super easy to strain off the hops, but I went ahead and squeezed it out to get back my wort. It was pretty hoppy when I drank my test tube...
 
I just read through all of the posts, and still didnt find a clear extract recipe. I would love to start AG, but I don't know enough to start, and I live in an apartment, so I'm stuck with doing extract brews.

Does anyone have a recipe for this using extract? I can steep grains as well (steeping means putting the hops in a bag and dipping them in the wort correct?)

If anyone can help me out I'd greatly appriciate it. I'd really love to make this beer :)
 
I just put this one in the keg. I let it clear in a carboy for a week. It already looks exactly like the picture. It already tastes good an its still green (young) with no carbonation. Ill have to wait a couple of more weeks till its good and ready. Ill never make it.
 
Mustangfreak said:
I just read through all of the posts, and still didnt find a clear extract recipe. I would love to start AG, but I don't know enough to start, and I live in an apartment, so I'm stuck with doing extract brews.

Does anyone have a recipe for this using extract? I can steep grains as well (steeping means putting the hops in a bag and dipping them in the wort correct?)

If anyone can help me out I'd greatly appriciate it. I'd really love to make this beer :)

It is an all grain recipe. I did edit it to add mini mash details. Head on up to the top and check it out.
 
I tried the 1st one of my bottles tonight, it has only been bottled for two weeks and since it ended up much higher in alchohol percentage that the recipe called for I wasnt expecting much, but........
It was flat as flat can be.
I am going to move the rest of the bottles to a warmer room and give them a good shaking to rouse the yeast and see if they dont carb up a bit more.
I really want this one to turn out good, 1st all grain and all.
As an aside, I brewed 2 beers on All Grain day 1, and the 2nd beer tasted pretty good, still needs more time, but it tasted good!
 
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