2 gallon batch - extract suggestion

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dan_slaughter

Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2008
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
im probably going to finish out my last mr beer recipe today (vienna lager) and was wondering how much dme or lme and of what variety should i use in place of the alcohol booster. also ive got some nottingham yeast...would that be ok for this brew, or should i pick up a different kind while im at the lhbs?
 
I would replace the booster with the same weight of light DME. That would be the easiest. We'd have to know the exact contents of the canned ingredients to give you more specific advice on the DME, but just replacing the booster with the same amount of DME should work just fine.

Nottingham is a good, clean, neutral yeast and that's what I'd recommend.
 
YooperBrew said:
I would replace the booster with the same weight of light DME. That would be the easiest. We'd have to know the exact contents of the canned ingredients to give you more specific advice on the DME, but just replacing the booster with the same amount of DME should work just fine.

Nottingham is a good, clean, neutral yeast and that's what I'd recommend.


alcohol booster is 12.5 oz and is composed corn syrup solids. the can of lme syrup is 1.21 oz. i havent got a suitable brew pot yet but i do have a pot thats 4 1/2 quarts. I could probably use that to do boil/dissolve making sure i got a spray bottle nearby. im guessing about 1 lb of light dme should be ok for this since thats going to be the smallest quanitity i can buy.
 
the directions only say to bring to a boil when dissolving the alcohol booster. ive read mixed things about boiling mr beer stuff. some say do it and others say dont. ive never actually done it (only bringing to boil the alcohol booster and removing heat/turning down when adding the extract). Its apparently pre boiled. however, i figured it might be worth a try. this will be the last mr beer batch i make and the keg fermentator will be reserved for apfelwein and small experiments as ihave a real brew kit now, only lacking in brew pot dept. im going to be moving out in the next month or so, so ill probably wait til i move and am settled before filling carboys.
 
Well, if it's no boil, I wouldn't 'boil it. You would be boiling off all the hops aroma and flavor (I assume it's pre-hopped?). I'd follow the directions but add the DME instead of the booster.
 
ive actually read through that thread extensively ever since recieving my mr beer around christmas time - i knew people suggested using better yeast and ditching the alcohol booster, i just couldnt find it (maybe i was impatient) - anyway, i got 1 lb of light dme for the batch im about to brew. each batch i make i take a step in the ight direction, the last batch was the mr beer pale ale which i subbed nottingham yeast for and when i was bottling i could already taste a difference and this time around im using nottingham and some light dme rather than the alcohol booster which bridges the gap to the next step about take which is full on 5 gallon batch.....anyway, my question has been answered (or suggestion taken rather) so you can delete, lock or incorporate into mr beer thread if youd like.
 
So i used 1 lb light dme in addition to the can of extract plus nottingham yeast and all i cansay is that i got some pretty explosive fermentation going on within 12 hours. here isa picture.
DSCN0872.jpg
 
Back
Top