Extended Mashing - My Process

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permo

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There has been much interest lately in extended mashing. I appear to be one of the biggest propents of this process, so i have written up my process in detail for others to learn from if they wish. Please feel free to add to, ask questions or point out any errors. i will add my write up in the post below this one.

Enjoy!!
 
Many homebrewers, like myself, are balancing a busy personal life while still trying to maintain our sanity by brewing! I have adopted a process that helps me manage my time and also, increase my brewing efficiency. Extended Mashing.

The first question I always get is: “won’t you get sour beer” if you have a properly insulated mash tun you will lose a minimal amount of heat. I always strive to get my mash tun as full as possible. If you enter your equipment appropriately in beersmith 2.0, you will be able to calculate precisely how much water you need and at what temp to fill your mash tun. I find 1.5 to 2.0 quarts per pound to be about right. It should also be noted that I have done multi rest and decoction style mashes with this method as well. The sacharification rest being the rest at which you extend overnight. So there you have it, the first key to maintaining a nice mash temp over an extended period of time. A full mash tun.

The second question is “won’t you get an extremely fermentable wort”?. You can use this method to get an extremely fermentable wort but you can also use this method to get a wort of whatever dextrin profile you are looking for. I find that it gives me more flexibility than a standard mash. For an extremely fermentable wort you can mash in at 150 and let the wort convert at 150 and slowly lose temp in the 140s over time. Awesome for IIPA’s , belgian tripels and other styles where fermentability is critical. For a more standard ale/lager you can mash in at 154-160 depending on how fermentable you want the wort. With the extended mash time you are giving the enzymes more time to work,so you will want to mash in 2-3 degrees warmer than usual to help denature and allow for some residual sugar to be maintained.

The gear: I use a well insulated coleman steelbelt cooler from the 1970’s and I cover it with some moving blankets I have in my garage. My mash has never fell below 140 degrees, even after 12+ hours. It's not rocket science.


I have two kids ages 2 and 4. Here is my typical brewing process. Get home from work at 3:30 pm, with kids. Measure out strike water and let it sit on the burner. Kids get ready for bed at 7:30pm. Light the burner and start heating water. I usually have both kids to bed by 8:15. Water is up to temp. Mash in about 8:30. Measure and prepare sparge water and set it on the burner. Go to bed. Wake up about 6:00 am. Light burner to heat sparge water. Drink coffee………collect first runnings, sparge and proceed. Time wasted is at a minimum and you get a very efficient mash. %80 or better virtually everytime.

Daddy is happy because he made another 10 gallons of kick ass beer, SWMBO is happy because family life has not been interupted with a marathon brew session.
 
I'm hoping a standard, plastic 54qt cooler will work as good as your steelbelt cooler!
 
I'm hoping a standard, plastic 54qt cooler will work as good as your steelbelt cooler!

It sure will. I have one of those as well. I used it for at least a year.


Here is an example of the power of the extended mash. Recently made an arrogant bastard inspired ale. I wanted to use WY1275, Mashed for 4 hours at 150 mash in temp. Ended up hitting 1.011 FG with 1.066 OG..for %7.2 ABV.....about perfect for that beer. That's %82.5 Attenuation for a yeast strain rated at 77%.
 
You've got me convinced to try it.. I'm going shopping for a cooler tomorrow. You mentioned that the more full the cooler is the better it retains its heat. I think you also mentioned that you do 10 gallon batches and have very little headspace in your mash.. I only do 5 gallon batches, so is that much headspace going to create problems for me?
 
I've definitely been meaning to try this. I've got a 10 gallon mashtun but can only do 6 gallon batches so methinks I'll try a no sparge beer overnight
 
You've got me convinced to try it.. I'm going shopping for a cooler tomorrow. You mentioned that the more full the cooler is the better it retains its heat. I think you also mentioned that you do 10 gallon batches and have very little headspace in your mash.. I only do 5 gallon batches, so is that much headspace going to create problems for me?


No, I used to do five gallon batches as well. You can adjust the liquor to grain ratio to maybe 1.75 or 2.0 quarts per pound and fill up a little more of the mash tun.

I just read a steady that liquor to grain ratio has little to no effect on fermentability or the body of the final product. All that mattered was the temperature and duration of the sach rest. However, the liquor to grain ratio does have an effect on efficiency. A higher liquor to grain ratio gives the enzymes "more room to roam" so to speak.
 
permo, you have inspired me to try an experiment tonight. I'm going to try doing an all night BIAB in a 7 gallon cooler. I'm doing a no sparge, with a fine grind in a huge BIAB bag I have. I'll pull the bag in the morning and squeeze the crap out of it. It's going to be a 2.5 gallon SMaSH with 6lbs 2row and cascade hops (that's the best I could come up with considering what I have).. I'll start the mash at 155 with 3.6 gallons of water for about 8 hours. I'm excited to see how this comes out!
 
I do overnight or extended mashes from time to time for exactly the same reasons: sometimes life gets in the way of an uninterupted brew day. Beer comes out just fine.
 
I do overnight or extended mashes from time to time for exactly the same reasons: sometimes life gets in the way of an uninterupted brew day. Beer comes out just fine.

Excellent, I think there is a lot to be said for this process/technique
 
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