More Burner Questions....

Ok, I have purchased two 10 nozzle jet burners...I want to run my HLT and boil kettle using these burners. Additionally, I want to put the HLT on automation, which I will use a love temp controller. I want to install the boil kettle so I can turn it on/off with a switch on my electronic control box. For the pilot light, I would like to use some kind of standing pilot (i.e. not an electrical starter for the ignition). BTW, I will be using propane as a fuel source.

I need some help on how to set these things up...should I run these hight pressure or low pressure, what pilot do I need, what solenoids will I need, etc.

Thanks in advance.

If they are the Chinese wok burner style, they are definitely low pressure. You will need a .5 psi regulator. The trick is to make sure every element from the tank to the burner is rated to supply the total amount of btus that the burners will consume. These are probably in the neighborhood of 75k btu, which means you wil need to supply 150 k+ btu. I am running 2 21 jet burners through a 200k regulator with slight drop when running both. I am planning on changing my boil kettle to a 10 jet burner soon since 21 is overkill for the boil. Many folks here will say to get an adjustable regulator, but given that you really need low pressure, but high volume, the oxygen mixture is never very good with these. They work, but not efficiently or ideally. Look at the low pressure regulator sold by morebeer.com.

Ok...here is what I am thinking. I will use a high pressure regulator from the bottle to a black pipe manifold. From the manifold, it will split to the HLT and the boil kettle. Then a valve attached to each end which will reduce the propane to low pressure. Then, finish the line off with the burner.

The boil kettle valve will be controlled electronically with a on/off switch. The HLT will set up on automation.

How is this...so far?

Plankton said:

Ok...here is what I am thinking. I will use a high pressure regulator from the bottle to a black pipe manifold. From the manifold, it will split to the HLT and the boil kettle. Then a valve attached to each end which will reduce the propane to low pressure. Then, finish the line off with the burner.

The boil kettle valve will be controlled electronically with a on/off switch. The HLT will set up on automation.

How is this...so far?

Click to expand...

A valve is not a pressure regulator. Even a needle valve downstream of the actual regulator is probably going to be mighty touchy, and some electronic controls will lock up if they see too much pressure...

Cheers!

Most of the automated systems are built using the 10" Banjo/Hurricane burners because these burners work well at all fire settings when used close to the bottom of the kettles. Automation is least expensive using Honeywell standing pilot gas valves and low pressure LP or NG as a fuel source. Burner conversion parts for both fuels are shelf items at a couple vendors, and gas valves with standing pilots run about $80 - $90 for a complete burner control setup, with a shared 24V transformer, and a single 2 stage low pressure regulator.
Another unsafe but cheaper route is to use a solenoid valve for gas control to burners, but if pilot goes out, you might be a contestant for the darwin awards and make the 5 o'clock news.

kladue said:

Most of the automated systems are built using the 10" Banjo/Hurricane burners because these burners work well at all fire settings when used close to the bottom of the kettles. Automation is least expensive using Honeywell standing pilot gas valves and low pressure LP or NG as a fuel source. Burner conversion parts for both fuels are shelf items at a couple vendors, and gas valves with standing pilots run about $80 - $90 for a complete burner control setup, with a shared 24V transformer, and a single 2 stage low pressure regulator.
Another unsafe but cheaper route is to use a solenoid valve for gas control to burners, but if pilot goes out, you might be a contestant for the darwin awards and make the 5 o'clock news.

Click to expand...

If I understand correctly, I will should run a dual stage low pressure regulator to get the psi to 0.5 to supply the gas manifold line, which will be 1/2" black iron. From the gas manifold line, I will need to run some type of honeywell gas valve with standing pilot.

I have read on some boards of a thermocouple safety switch. Do all of the gas valves with standing pilot lights have the thermocouple safety switch?

Do you have a recommendation for the gas valves?

Here are two options I am contemplating:
A HONEYWELL VR8200A2124 - 24 Vac Dual Standing Pilot Gas Valve with 1/2 in. x 1/2 in. inlet\outlet, standard opening and 3.5 in. wc pressure regulator setting with a and a Q314A586 pilot burner. I think I will need a intermittent pilot controller and 24DC converter as well. Can someone confirm this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VR8200A2124...ultDomain_0&hash=item1c185e97eb#ht_3363wt_975

Another option is to use 1/2" Electric Solenoid Valve 110-V AC VITON SEAL B21V with the same pilot light.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...ultDomain_0&hash=item43a7ca999a#ht_2096wt_956

What are your thoughts?

Plankton said:

If I understand correctly, I will should run a dual stage low pressure regulator to get the psi to 0.5 to supply the gas manifold line, which will be 1/2" black iron. From the gas manifold line, I will need to run some type of honeywell gas valve with standing pilot.

Click to expand...

He was suggesting a two stage valve, not regulator. This means that it actally has two valves inside of it, one held open by the thermocouple that will shut off if the pilot goes out, and the second controlled by an external input source.

Plankton said:

Do all of the gas valves with standing pilot lights have the thermocouple safety switch?

Click to expand...

Not neccesarily, which is why a two stage valve was suggested.

Plankton said:

Here are two options I am contemplating:

Click to expand...

Looks to me like the first valve linked will work fine. The second valve linked will also work fine, but will not have the thermocouple safety feature. Only you can place a monetary value on the safety of your system. If you decide to use the solenoid valves, I suggest never leaving the burner/s running unsupervised for any length of time.

I have decided on the HW valve. Here is the question, to run this with an Auber PID, what PID do I need? The valve is 24v?? Does the PID need to be the same power?

Can I run one these valves with a on/off switch?

Can anyone out there shed some light on this?

Plankton said:

I have decided on the HW valve. Here is the question, to run this with an Auber PID, what PID do I need? The valve is 24v?? Does the PID need to be the same power?

Can I run one these valves with a on/off switch?

Click to expand...

There are many ways to do this, and numerous PID's that will work. Easiest IMO is to use a relay output PID into a 110V to 24V transformer into the valve. The PID does not need to be 24V, and unless you have a 24V power supply near your brew rig you're going to need a transformer. Makes more sense to me to have the transformer on the output side of things. Yes, you can run the valve using just a transformer and on/off switch. Disclaimer: I don't know much about PID's, so my advice could be completely off base.

I just received my Honeywell VR8200A2124 valves today. Excited to hook them up. Here is the question:

1. Will this transformer work to power these 24v valves?

http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-...el-Mounted-120-Vac-Transformer-40VA-4559000-p

2. I will have two valves installed. One automated on my HLT, which will be connected to an Auber PID. One to heat my boil kettle. This one will have an on/off switch. Will each valve require its own transformer?

3. Am I missing any components in the connection besides a 110 power supply and project box?

4. Can anyone assist with a wire diagram? As I stated in point two, I will be connecting one valve to an Auber PID and one to an On/Off switch.

Thanks in advance!