What to do with a dead chest freezer

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Zooom101

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Messages
88
Reaction score
2
Location
Florida
A few weeks ago I picked up a large chest freezer at an estate sale. It turns out that the damn thing doesn't work. I'm a fairly competent DIY'er and handyman and have narrowed the problem down to the compressor/motor being stuck. I've tried hard starting it but still there's no response. The only thing I hear is an electrical hum from power running through the motor coils.

The freezer is a White Westinghouse from 1991 that I got for $50. I've already come to terms that I got ripped off. I was thinking as a last resort that I could drill through the compressor housing and nudge the motor/compressor with the end of a screwdriver to unstick it. The compressor/motor is inside a sealed metal case. I'm wondering if drilling through the housing will allow the freon to escape, or if there were any other hazards to taking a drill bit to the metal housing.

I realize that this question would be more suited for an appliance repair forum, but I trust you guys and know there are some very insightful people on here.

Thanks.
 
I had an old Craigslist chest freezer that "died" last year. It was in the basement and heavy as hell getting it down there. My ultimate solution was to just buy a new one from Lowes-mainly to take advantage of the free delivery AND take away of the old unit.

I didn't have to fight that old one back up the stairs or deal with the freon recovery before disposing. The delivery guys just took it away.

Really not an answer you were looking for, but thought I'd share-I didn't want to deal with the old one...
 
I'm wondering if drilling through the housing will allow the freon to escape

Good chance. It is easier to put the motor and compressor inside the freon loop than it is to prevent leakage around an external seal.
 
I took a dead freezer that I had and put two 4" PVC pipes between it and a working chest freezer right next to it. I also added some computer fans to push the cold air one way and pull the warm air the other way.

The working freezer keeps my kegs cool and the dead one keeps my cellared beers about 5 degrees warmer.

Link To Temperature Graph
 
I am by no means an expert on this, but lots of times these small motors have a capacitor used to get the motor going / started as it takes a larger amount of electricity to get a motor started than to keep it running.If it`s humming, then I would try a new capacitor....if that doesn`t work it sounds like the motor may be seized up.At that point I`d just get a new freezer.
 
It sounds like the start relay has died, look for the cover over the compressor electrical connections and lift cover and you should find the start relay. Tag the wires with tape and remove relay and thermal overload device and get replacements then reinstall. Ge does not use the best, just the cheapest components in the appliences, with the usual results from that practice.
 
I am by no means an expert on this, but lots of times these small motors have a capacitor used to get the motor going / started as it takes a larger amount of electricity to get a motor started than to keep it running.If it`s humming, then I would try a new capacitor....if that doesn`t work it sounds like the motor may be seized up.At that point I`d just get a new freezer.

I agree - look for a capacitor, that may be your problem.
 
If you can't get it working, you could always use it for your fermenters for warmer brews and use the lightbulb method to provide the warmth. I know, not what you want to do.
 
I've got an old CF that stopped holding its freon charge. It moved out to my back porch; I'm going to build a collar for it & make a "manual" keezer out of it--just add kegs & ice before a party, and voila!

From what you've described of yours, I agree with the others--check the start capacitor. Hope you can get it fixed!

--Misha
 
It's definitely not the capacitor. The "hard start" that I've wired in replaces the capacitor, relay, and overload. I really wish it were the capacitor because that would be an easy fix.

The fermentation chamber idea is a good one, except that I live in Florida and keeping things warm isn't a problem. I actually already have fermentation chamber that I made from a mini-fridge.

I was really hoping to get this working on it's own. Plumbing some cold air from another freezer is a good idea, one that I had never thought of, but It wouldn't work for what I want to do. Thanks for all the responses and suggestions. I'm thinking that I may just have to get rid of it because it's un-fixable.

Thanks again.
 
Why not just put a new compressor in it? you can find new one's online between $50 and $100. Your local A/C supply shop should have a new Schrader valve ($1) you can install to pull a vaccum and fill with freon. Just make sure and use 56% silver solder with the flux coating on the rod. Makes the job easier and is what you will need for copper to steel fitting connections. I'd suggest getting a new start capacitor to since they are cheap anyway.

I recently did this on a side by side for less than $150. Still cheaper than a new one!

Good Luck!
 
It's definitely not the capacitor. The "hard start" that I've wired in replaces the capacitor, relay, and overload. I really wish it were the capacitor because that would be an easy fix.
Direct wiring it may not help even if the compressor motor is good. The capacitor is usually used as a phase shift to start the motor. No capacitor, no phase-shift, no motor start. Call your appliance guy and see about an estimate before you give up. It may not be that bad. I had a compressor changed out on a chiller at work for about $200 and it's guaranteed.
 
(snip) It may not be that bad. I had a compressor changed out on a chiller at work for about $200 and it's guaranteed.

Replacing a compressor on a 20 year old freezer is not a good idea. The evap and condenser lines in chest freezers are usually steel, and they eventually rot out. It's the most common cause of refrigerant leaks in such units.

Buy a new one.
 
Direct wiring it may not help even if the compressor motor is good. The capacitor is usually used as a phase shift to start the motor. No capacitor, no phase-shift, no motor start. Call your appliance guy and see about an estimate before you give up. It may not be that bad. I had a compressor changed out on a chiller at work for about $200 and it's guaranteed.

Replacing a compressor on a 20 year old freezer is not a good idea. The evap and condenser lines in chest freezers are usually steel, and they eventually rot out. It's the most common cause of refrigerant leaks in such units.

Buy a new one.

One more time... Call an appliance guy before you give up. Your particular problem may not be that bad. It could still be just a start capacitor. Replacing a compressor on a chiller is worst case scenario and even it isn't that bad. Your particular problem may be minor. Buying a new freezer may be out of your budget. Repair might not be feasible, but you won't know for sure until you get the right expertise available to find out for sure. Buying another used freezer may be the best path for you. You'll still have to do something with the old one and with today's environmental laws a freezer/fridge is much more difficult to get rid of than it used to be. I went through that, and even though the system was devoid of freon, it had to have a tag from a professional stating so, at a $50 charge of course. I finally lost all presence of mind after having exhausted the usual routes, took a gas powered hot-saw and sliced the whole thing into little pieces, put it on the curb and the trash guys hauled it off. Uniquely therapeutic, if nothing else.
 
One more time... Call an appliance guy before you give up. Your particular problem may not be that bad. It could still be just a start capacitor.

One more time... The OP already replaced the capacitor. He actually did better than that, he installed a "3 in 1" hard start kit, which contains the capacitor, overload and relay. I've revived several chest freezers and fridges this way, and if the compressor doesn't kick over with that, it's not going to.

Yeah, a new freezer may not be in his budget, but remember the thing is 19 years old. He's already into it for $50, any repairs are going to exceed that amount. As to disposal, most fair sized cities will accept fridges and freezers for refrigerant reclamation, no charge, and some electrical utilities will not only pick them up, they'll even pay you an incentive.

Zoom, don't throw good money after bad. You did the smart thing, risking just a few bucks on the hard start kit, as I have done. Now forget about it and hit Craigs List for a better one.
 
I already know that it'll cost me $99 just to have someone come look at it. I think the best thing to do at this point is find a cheap way to get rid of it and look for another on Craigslist. At least now I know how to tell if one really works before I buy it.

Thanks for all the suggestions!
 
Back
Top