I use my 32qt kettle for 5 gallon batches (using a converted cooler mash tun) along with a 5 gallon pot to heat my sparge waster (so that I can catch the mash wort in my kettle)... I did some BIAB batches with the two pots, but got tired of shifting between them on the stove.
Having the propane burner is one of the key elements for easier all grain brewing, IMO... If you have a decent sized cooler already, you can convert it into a mash tun without spending a lot of money (you can usually do it for $25-$75 depending on what you select for hardware). Pick up an inexpensive ~20qt pot to heat the sparge water, and you're pretty much there.
Looking back, I wish that I can gone with the cooler conversion earlier. I do recommend having a decent wort chiller for your full boils. I started with a IC made with 20' of 3/8OD copper and it does a good job. But, I've since made one out of 50' and it does a great job. Still have a couple of 'bugs' to work out of that chiller, but I should have it 100% before the next brew day.
IF you're at all handy, you can make a lot of your brewing gear yourself... If not, then you can either purchase it already made, or get some brew-buddies to help you out.
BTW, I have two kettles (made them myself out of aluminum stock pots, installing the 1/2" ball valves) in 32qt and 60qt. I've used the 60qt for a 10 gallon batch already. Did a damned good job there. My normal batch size is 5 gallons, so the 32qt kettle works perfectly. You might find that the 30qt is a little tight with full boils. If so, get some fermcap-s and add it to the wort as it gets to a boil. It will keep it from foaming, and let you get damned close to the top edge of the kettle.
Just for reference, I don't have a ton of storage space where I'm living now (1 bedroom apartment, <550 sq ft) but I'm able to store the kettle, sparge water pot, and cooler without too much trouble. Get a table to help gravity feed between the mash tun so that you don't need to worry about getting pumps and such. Something as simple as a concrete patio block will keep the heat from the burner off the table. I'm using the Bayou KAB4 burner myself and it doesn't throw much heat down. You get more to the sides, from around the pot. Depending on the burner you have, you might need/want the block under it. You can also get the thin concrete mats that people use under grills and such to protect what you have the burner on... I need to check on my mats to see if they're still ok or not. If they are, I'll be using those moving forward, when not where I normally brew. I should be able to brew on a folding table using that in fact... Or even a wood table and not worry about anything burning.