Improving Attenuation

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ChefMichael01

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Morning guys:

Have a quick question on attenuation. I have been getting some pretty poor FGs relative to my recipes (see: 1.020 curse). I know this has been discussed in numerous threads but wanted to ensure I had everything covered as I am brewing BM's SWMBO Slayer (partial mash) here in a few minutes and want to make sure I can hit that low 1.008 FG with my WLP400 yeast (used 2 day starter, still has krausen)

1. Use a yeast starter, ensure starter is fermented at temperature similar to what beer will be at
2. I try to use relatively low ferm temps of 65 degrees, I'm thinking of raising the fermenter to about 70 or 72 degrees in last few days and rocking the carboy a bit to get those yeasties working hard for the last bit (should also take care of some of those diacetyls right?)
3. Wort Aeration - I aerate using an aquarium stone prior to pitching yeast for 30 mins, then pitch yeast, shake carboy and aerate for another 15 mins
4. Use a swamp cooler to minimize wild temperature fluctuations

Please let me know if anyone has any other tips for getting better attenuation/hitting FGs. I'm sure I've left some things out.

Happy New Year! :tank:
 
Sounds like a plan.

One thing to note about the 400, it can have a real personality during fermentation. I've seen that yeast get so worked up that it beaches itself on the fermenter walls and your fermentation essentially stalls out.

Give that fermenter a good rocking every few days to knock that yeast pudding off the walls and back into the wort.

I've also seen primaries go dormant after a day or so of fermentation...and then start back up again for no reason. Patience is the key and keeping that fermenter at 68 degrees minimum will also help.
 
Thanks BM, but when you say 68 minimum, do you mean not fermenting this yeast BELOW 68 degrees? I typically go lower for cleaner beers.
 
I would go higher than 65 with the WLP400. BM is right on that 68 is a minimum for that yeast if you want it to be active. With the Wit yeast I would go 68 for the first 24-36 hours then let it ramp up to the low (or even mid-high) 70s to finish out and attenuate fully. I do see that the recipe lists 65 as the primary temp but in my experience the WLP400 doesn't work well at that low temperature, taking weeks for the krausen to drop.
 
One thing to note about the 400, it can have a real personality during fermentation. I've seen that yeast get so worked up that it beaches itself on the fermenter walls and your fermentation essentially stalls out.

+123 to this. WLP400 has been a bit of a weirdo for me, too. Rousing the yeast every few days will help, as will slightly higher fermentation temperatures.

Following is a link to White Labs' site and some discussions on how to get the most from WLP400.
White Labs - WLP400
 
2. I try to use relatively low ferm temps of 65 degrees, I'm thinking of raising the fermenter to about 70 or 72 degrees in last few days and rocking the carboy a bit to get those yeasties working hard for the last bit (should also take care of some of those diacetyls right?)

I do this pretty regularly and have never had a beer finish over 1.017. I usually wait until it's slowed way down (4-6 days).
 

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