Smashing
Well-Known Member
I left it at the factory .039 and hit my projected OG. I'm not really sure how to measure efficiency. Fairly log brew day - I am soooo disorganized!
I left it at the factory .039 and hit my projected OG. I'm not really sure how to measure efficiency. Fairly log brew day - I am soooo disorganized!
I've used this page to calculate efficiency in the past: Brewhouse Efficiency Calculator | Brewer's Friend
The trick is to measure your preboil gravity... which I always hate doing because I have to wait for it to cool.
The trick is to measure your preboil gravity... which I always hate doing because I have to wait for it to cool.
If using a hydrometer the sample needs to be cooled to get accurate readings.
Can't you just adjust for temperature when determining the SG? That's what I usually do when I'm checking post-boil, after fermentation, after cold crashing, etc.
I just made my first all grain batch (Centennial Blonde). Overall, it went okay although I only wound up with 4.25 gal into the fermenter. Also, I'm not sure if it's because of the ambient temp, but next time I'll raise the temp of my strike and sparge water to hit my target mash/sparge temps which were both kind of low.
Can't you just adjust for temperature when determining the SG? That's what I usually do when I'm checking post-boil, after fermentation, after cold crashing, etc.
I just made my first all grain batch (Centennial Blonde). Overall, it went okay although I only wound up with 4.25 gal into the fermenter. Also, I'm not sure if it's because of the ambient temp, but next time I'll raise the temp of my strike and sparge water to hit my target mash/sparge temps which were both kind of low.
+1 to getting a refractometer! Just keep your hydrometer because post fermentation the alcohol can affect the refractometer.
Not that I've been doing this all that long, but that's what I like about SW like BeerSmith, you just plug in how much you want in the end along with things like trub loss, etc. and it calculates the needed volumes along the way.Also - you might want to adjust your future batches to 5.5 gallons if you can. With AG there tends to be a good about of hotbreak and coldbreak along with yeast, etc. in the fermenter. If you shoot for 535G batches your yield will be about 5 gallons less all that trub. This is why I do 11G batches (so I end up with two full 5G kegs). YMMV
The refractometers are nice because you can take a sample in hte pipet from your boil and it takes just a few moments to cool down to room temp. However I have noticed my refractometer needs recalibrating now and then, so I tend to only really trust my hydrometer (but it is good ball parking tool).
I used to take readings all the way through the brew process, but I seemed to hit my numbers so consistently as I have dialed my system in, so I only check o.g. as I add to fermenter and F.G. now.
drocu, - key to your mash will always be stable mash temp. Wrap your MT in towels or other insulation like material to keep your gravity constant and not sliding more than a degree. reheat at 30 minutes if needed. Get a good thermometer
Also try to mash with a thinner 50/50 mash/sparge ratio. That is, using about half of your water needs in your mash so you can mash, then batch sparge once for the remainder of your preboil needs.
My target pre-boil volume looked about right: 6.5 gallons. I think the boil was just too vigorous. Next time I'll try more of a simmer.
I'll definitely try wrapping my MLT to insulate it better. And yes, I definitely need a good thermometer since I'm just rocking a cheap floating one.
I don't see the need for a refractometer which just sounds like another gadget. My hydrometer works just fine and like I said, I don't bother cooling my sample and just adjust for temperature instead.
Im just stoked at clarity and the lack of flavor/off tastes. O **** you not i literally made almost flavorless beer. It gives a nod and confidence boost in brewing abilities. The parents and sponsors will enjoy it!
Lagering was kinda interesting. I did it the natural ambient outside way. I got 3 weeks of 40* weather in my storage unit and it came out well.
Now talking excited is the thouht of celebration, mind passing the recipe? I did a pkrter yesterday. A glbc eddie fitz INSPIRED not clone brew.
You want the beer smith file? or me to write it here?
See attached if you can read it. You will obviously have to change it down to 5G
Cidah,
Can you attach the .bsm file? This one is on my to-do list (even though I bought a case of the real stuff). Just need to get some Centennial first... all out.
Also, I've got a variety of other hops that I am looking for known-good recipe's to use: Chinook, Columbus, Crystal, Mt Hood, Northern Brewer, Saaz, Williamette, Magnum, Perle, Columbus.
I also have a bunch of Cascade (local), but I am looking for suggestions as I've seemed to brew a bunch of stuff that used Centennial, Cascade, and EKG...looking to expand my hops usage (since I already have them!).
Cidah,
Can you attach the .bsm file?
This is the recipe that the brewer gave out the information for on a CYBI + the website. If you check out the SN website I used info from there too.
I use grams because it is easier to measure and get the alpha acids that the brewer said are present. So if he said 30 bittering IBUs I add until the IBUs = exactly 30. There are ~28g per oz.
I will figure out how to get the bsm file up there for you guys (hopefully today).
Cut hop schedule in half? Any specific reason you use grams vs oz? Looks like their pale with diff hops!
Why 2 yeasts or is it an option. Or is it used to blend flavors to the desired.
Enter your email address to join: