Sight Glass Ball Valve Combo

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Brewer_Steve

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I'm just about to put a ball valve on my kettle. I thought I'd put a T just before the ball valve which would contain a sight glass. I like the idea, as I only have to make 1 hole in the kettle. I've seen the thermometer/sight glass combos, but taht doesn't interest me, as I'd like to use a remote probe for my thermometer.

So, is there any reason why making a ball valve / sight glass combo is a bad idea?
 
Only downside is as you open the valve the level in the sight gauge will go all the way down untill you close it back up.
 
Shameless necro.


Has anyone tried putting a check valve below the sight glass to prevent this from happening? I have a 10g hlt pot with 2 welded threaded ports. The bottom one is where I'd prefer to place the sight glass because its substantially lower than the other one that is above it. Then again, once the valve is there it would raise the sight glass up probably the same height.

Bah!
 
Shameless necro.


Has anyone tried putting a check valve below the sight glass to prevent this from happening? I have a 10g hlt pot with 2 welded threaded ports. The bottom one is where I'd prefer to place the sight glass because its substantially lower than the other one that is above it. Then again, once the valve is there it would raise the sight glass up probably the same height.

Bah!

If you put a check valve below the sightglass, then you'll have an inaccurate reading of how much is still left in the kettle. It will only show how full it was before you opened the ball valve.

So with or without the check, the level will be inaccurate. Waste of effort, imo.

:mug:
 
Only downside is as you open the valve the level in the sight gauge will go all the way down untill you close it back up.

I'm not sure I agree with this. I would think it works fine.

Disclaimers: I'm not a hydrodynamics major, nor have I tried this set up....
 
Shameless necro.


Has anyone tried putting a check valve below the sight glass to prevent this from happening? I have a 10g hlt pot with 2 welded threaded ports. The bottom one is where I'd prefer to place the sight glass because its substantially lower than the other one that is above it. Then again, once the valve is there it would raise the sight glass up probably the same height.

Bah!

https://www.morebeer.com/products/stainless-sight-gauge-adapter-plug.html
 
Disclaimers: I'm not a hydrodynamics major, nor have I tried this set up....

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspirator_(pump)

Running liquid past an opening will create a vacuum. You could put a cork in the top of your sight glass, then just pop it in when you're draining, or leave it out when you're measuring.

You could also just open the lid and look inside ;)
 
That would be the piece needed to attach the sight glass but the above issue still occurs. Possibly...


That's the one I used years ago with their site glass. I removed the plug and added a valve. If I pumped wort into it, it would push out of the top of the sight glass and when I drained it out it would pull a vacuum, drain the sight glass and pull in air to my wort. You really need a separate hole in your kettle or cooler to attach a sight glass.
 
That's the one I used years ago with their site glass. I removed the plug and added a valve. If I pumped wort into it, it would push out of the top of the sight glass and when I drained it out it would pull a vacuum, drain the sight glass and pull in air to my wort. You really need a separate hole in your kettle or cooler to attach a sight glass.

I was hoping to avoid another hole but i will likely go this router eventually.

Sight glass
Valve
Thermometer
Heating coil

Swiss xheese HLT
 
I find them all useful during a brew day! You may want to look into etching markings into the kettle. It's pretty easy to do. I've seen several threads on it here.

You could also go old school and just use a stick with gallon markings on it
 
I think the whole sight glass method is flawed due to the increase and decrease in volume with temperature changes, and view angle. This can lead to discrepancies up to 3-4%. Load cells are so cheap on eBay, and I've found them to be a flawless solution. Not to mention they can talk to the BCS controller, and control everything from mash, to sparge, and boil.
 
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