Element in Mash Tun

I see all the HERMS and RIMS units and have been wondering, is there a problem with just putting an element in My mash tun, under the false bottom, controlled by a PID and recirculating? As long as the pump is running whenever the element is on there shouldn't be any problem with scorching, correct? Am I over simplifying?

This is the same concept as BIAB and was what i was considering doing for my new setup for quite some time. I personally dont see any problem with this as long as there is plenty of circulation and its below the false bottom

You'd need to have the FB up relatively high to fit in the element, so as long as your MLT can hold all your grains with a raised FB, it could work.

Interesting, I've got the Norcal false bottom in my Rubbermaid MLT which sits up 2", oops wait a minute my MLT is plastic. This isn't for me but if somebody had the norcal in their kettle style MLT it might work. The Norcal FB sits on a stand that holds it up 2" no dip tube is used.

It'll be in a 25 gallon kettle.


::rockin::

It could be done but you definitely want to run a pretty thin mash. Also, I'd feel a lot better about it if you use a center bottom drain rather than rely on any kind of diptube. You'll have a better chance of clearing out any grain that gets past the false bottom. All you need is a little pile of grain touching the element and you'll make a burnt tasting beer. Certainly using an ultra low density element would help. I'm thinking an ULWD 240v/5500w element run at 120v.

Bobby_M said:

I'm thinking an ULWD 240v/5500w element run at 120v.

Click to expand...

Good ideas Bobby...perhaps run 240v while heating strike water, then switch to 120v during the mash.

I have been thinking about doing this exact thing. Why would it be any different than a tube. You can still get grain in the tube, you still have to heat the same wort. The wort will be circulating just like with a tube. You will start with strike water and dough-in to reach your temps. Is it because in the tube you are only heating a small amount of wort instead of the gallon/s that are under the false bottom at any given time? I would still use a pid to control the element.

Well one thought to consider is the sensor that controls the wort temp. In the tube it constantly monitors the wort as it flows past the sensor. So it gets to monitor 100% of the wort in a small chamber. There possibly could be variations of the wort temp in the space under the FB the sensor doesn't have a grip on all of the wort depending on where the sensor that controls the element is placed. I'm not saying it wouldn't work I'm just trying to consider where the temp is derived from, and if there might be any variables to consider.

I don't see how monitoring a quart or so of wort is monitoring 100%. I be recirculating to keep the temps even.

Oh, and I have two ulwd 110 elements kicking around somewhere. I think 1500 would be enough to keep the temps up, thoughts?

I do have 165 degree water on demand in the garage too. Really cuts down on heating times.

I have been a BIABer and a recirculator.

You don't need to worry about scorching if you use an ultra low watt density element. I have had the bag sitting on the element with no problems.

You can do this without recirculating, just stir a few times and be done with it. You have to keep a very low level of circulation or you will have a compacted grain bed. With that low of a circulation rate, the PID tends to have a hard time maintaining the correct temps.

I have recently just set my pid to 5-10% in manual mode, stir a few times during the mash and had better results. So I am still doing BIAB but skipping the recirculation with a pump.

I had planned in using one of those small 12v ebay pumps to keep a really low rate. I guess I'll just have to try it