Pm Sent
This Saturday I will be brewing a DFH 90 minute IPA clone with a double mash as stated in an earlier post. I figure at the very least the cooling part will go very well as I know I have a bunch of cooling surface area.
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anyone have a good porter recipe to share?
DeGarre said:Shameless beer cave brag...but I love it!
bcryan said:How big of a paint strainer bag do you use? Seems like a great idea. I get way to much grain sneaking past my mesh screens. Thanks
crooow said:Hey all. I've got two little kids and I don't have time to babysit my rig for 5 hours. For the past year or so, I've only been able to do extract brewing, but I miss all grain, and the Braumeister looks like it might meet my needs so I can get back into it. I have two questions:
1) Reading through this enormous thread, it looks like a few people use voltage converters and plug into 110v outlets. I'd like to do this to have some versatility in where I brew. Has anyone experienced any problems doing this?
2) Because of the electronics in this thing, I'm a little worried that 5 years out, if the brain dies, I'm out a couple of grand. How is Speidel support? I see from a few posts that morebeer and Speidel have been good about replacing parts, but sending this thing to Germany to be fixed would be a huge pain.
Thanks!
Hey all. I've got two little kids and I don't have time to babysit my rig for 5 hours. For the past year or so, I've only been able to do extract brewing, but I miss all grain, and the Braumeister looks like it might meet my needs so I can get back into it. I have two questions:
1) Reading through this enormous thread, it looks like a few people use voltage converters and plug into 110v outlets. I'd like to do this to have some versatility in where I brew. Has anyone experienced any problems doing this?
2) Because of the electronics in this thing, I'm a little worried that 5 years out, if the brain dies, I'm out a couple of grand. How is Speidel support? I see from a few posts that morebeer and Speidel have been good about replacing parts, but sending this thing to Germany to be fixed would be a huge pain.
Thanks!
Redstag said:Speaking of screens, when I unpacked the Braumeister, and noticed that the factory had replaced the fabric screens with Stainless steel I was pleased. Then I looked at the edges. Knowing how screens tend to come apart, I thought it would not be good to have a stray piece end up in someone’s glass. I know the factory put a lot of thought into their design. But I figured I would have to modify them in some way.
The small weave around the center hole didn’t concern me as much as the outer edge. The first option I thought of was to not use them, and replace them with a frying pan screen. It didn’t take too long to can that idea. Finding one to fit, cut the handle off, nope bad idea.
Then I thought why not fold the edges over to eliminate the chance of them coming apart. It would make a smooth edge making them easier to clean, handle etc. I then looked for an object that would make it easy to fold the edge up and then over. I used a flat piece of metal about 1/8 inch thick, that had a rounded end. I wanted to make sure I didn’t fold over so much of the screen that it would block the holes at the edge of the plate. I gently folded the edge of the screen up all the way around. Then I pushed the edge over. The screen looked great, but what if ….If I fold it over again, the edges will be trapped and should never come apart making the screen even more durable. So I repeated the process again. Now I have a thick edge with different thicknesses of screen (a bit wonky as the British would say). I had just poured myself my last bottle of Stone’s Arrogant Bastard Ale (can’t get it hear in Oklahoma) and thought why not roll the bottle over the edge like a rolling pin. It worked like a charm making the edge flat and smooth. However, when I placed the screen on the malt plate it didn’t lay flat. I really wanted to make the plate/screen setup quick and easy and more importantly not have to worry about stray grains. So I used Stainless steel safety wire and tied the screen down to the plate in a few places. I am a car nut and just happened to have some around. Stainless steel guitar string I am sure could be used as well.
Redstag said:Macomachine,
So far I am happy with the results. I think having the SS screen pined to the plate helps. I believe the culprit is the fitment between the plate and the malt pipe. As you know the plates must be able to slide up and down easily in the malt pipe, without hanging up, or scratching the sides. Another reason I modified the SS screens. I Really like your idea of using the paint straining bag. I believe the bag is filling in the space between the malt plat and the pipe thus catching the strays. My question to you is, do you think your bag system would work if you removed the SS screams all together? I believe I read that you brewed your last batch without the top SS screen. That is what got me to thinking about removing both SS screens. I like the idea of the wart being able to flow easily through the plate, putting less strain on the pumps. I know Speidel has picked the pumps that are strong enough for the job. I gave them a good test last week. A pump failier would have been a disaster to say the least. I must say I love this machine, the process, and discussing it with like minded people. It's therapeutic and cheaper than a shrink. Not than I need one...I figure I won't need a shrink if I keep brewing. RRRR
Redstag said:Malomachin said "Speidel needs to "edge" their screens with a metal loop and this would all be a moot point!"
I agree, just like a fry pan splatter screen, only fabricated much better, you know... the German way.
Thumbs up on your shamless plug by the way, nice setup, with nine taps I think you should change your name to Brew Monster.
"Party on Garth"
... the plates must be able to slide up and down easily in the malt pipe, without hanging up, or scratching the sides....
DeGarre,
Good to know the top plate doen't need to move. Where can a "rubber edge seal" be found?
DeGarre said:I actually ordered it from Australia (I am lazy):
http://www.ubrew.com.au/web/index.asp
The seal is similar to the red rubber one that goes under the malt pipe.
I finally found the time to brew the DFH 90 minute IPA clone. I learned a bunch and will be brewing it again but with some changes.
1. The grain bill for an 11 gallon batch is a monster, 34.5lbs in total. As mentioned in an earlier post I split the mash using both 5 and 10 gallon malt pipes. Not a good idea. Each pipe ended up with a large amount of grain, 11.25 lbs in the 5 gallon mp and 23.25lbs in the 10 gallon mp. I had to stop the process several times removing the top screen and stirring the grist so the pumps could circulate the wort. The wort never cleared.
2. I have been trying to incorporate many of ideas discussed in this thread. To that end, I made an attempt at conditioning the grain before grinding. Not having done this before I think it will take a bit of practice to get this technique to work properly.
3.I had the gap in my crusher set to .042 I believe this was another contributing factor of the wort never clearing. The husks looked to be mostly in tack but I guess with the amount of grain being used as well as the crush not being correct the results were not good.
4. Hops, I should have used a hop gag. The amount of trub was incredible. I only collected 6 of the 11gallons I was expecting.
5. I let the whole mash sit overnight as suggested in an earlier post. Also not a good idea if you want to keep the temperature steady. The temperature was 5 degrees warmer the next morning. I had turned off the pump so as not to have it running all night.
6. My before boil gravity was 1.074. Knowing I wanted to finish with an OG of 1.085
I added some Light DME and sparged. 30 min into boil gravity was 1.078, 1 hour into boil the gravity was 1.081, and finished with 1.091, no need for the DME
7. The cooling process went well I just needed more ice. In 10 min I had the temp down to 42C, 15 min down to 33C, 20 min to 30C and 30 min to 28C.
So next time .
1. I will split the grain bill in half and mash twice using the 10g mp.
2. Condition the grain correctly.
3. Use a wider gap for the crush.
4. Use a hop bag.
5. Brew in one day not two.
6. Have more faith in getting closer to the OG .no DME
7. Have more ice on hand for the cooling process.
As it sits now I have 6 gallons of very cloudy, wort bubbling away in primary with a healthy dose of WLP 007. Soon it will be time to transfer to secondary, dry hop and filter before kegging.
Or serve the it in German style clay mugs .Live and learn
Note to self...don't over think the damn thing, simplify and just brew.
I actually ordered it from Australia (I am lazy):
http://www.ubrew.com.au/web/index.asp
The seal is similar to the red rubber one that goes under the malt pipe.
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