Any carpenters? Need Help!

Well I figured with the diverse amount of people and profession on this forum maybe I could find a good answer here since I am hitting a brick wall. I am looking at framing my basement. Typically I know you would secure the wall frames with either a combination of liquid nail and cement screws or anchors. However, I have in floor heat in the basement and it was not laid by me so I have no idea of where the lines run, so I am looking for alternatives for securing the walls.

Is liquid nails enough?

These walls are basically partition walls, correct? In that case, using liquid nails and framing fairly tightly (floor-to-ceiling) should be sufficient and especially if there are connected walls at perpendicular angles. I'm not sure what kind of shear forces you expect on the walls, but I would feel comfortable with an appropriate adhesive (one designated for wood to your flooring substrate.

Could the weight of the walls pinch/sever electrical/heat lines in the floor? or could direct, prolonged exposure to the floor cause issues with the glue, wood, or wall covering? I think that would be more of a concern than the walls toppling or shifting.

I agree with the liquid nails and framing from floor to ceiling. If you really wanted to tie into the concrete walls/floor, you could have someone come out with a thermal camera, take pics of your walls, the heaters will either be warmer or colder than the surrounding concrete. That is how we check CMU walls in existing construction to see how often they placed rebar.

I used to help my neighbor build decks he owns his carpentry business . They would use the PL 400 on all the decks it was permanent I'll tell you if you put something in the wrong place you would have to destroy it to remove it. The bond was stronger than the wood.

I don't know about the code where you are but the sill has to be pressure treated where it contacts the concrete and the walls on the foundation need to be away from the concrete by at least 1" . This way if the concrete weeps or gets condensation it wont rot the wood over time . Its code here to do this

I used a LockTite construction adhesive when I framed out my old garage. The concrete was too crumbly for nailing, but that PTL 2x4 isn't ever going anywhere!

Awesome, thanks guys.
Not sure what the exact code is here in WI, but once I get them up and put up the drywall I not too worried about it.
As for the thermal camera, never thought of that, and I think that would be fun too.

Munch671 said:

Awesome, thanks guys.
Not sure what the exact code is here in WI, but once I get them up and put up the drywall I not too worried about it.
As for the thermal camera, never thought of that, and I think that would be fun too.

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I agree with Springer's advice about Pressure Treated plates and staying off the concrete walls. You will be concerned if your insulation or drywall gets moist and you end up with mold...

Carpenters Christmas
[youtube]RSHevB1QZOM[/youtube]

Ohio-Ed said:

I agree with Springer's advice about Pressure Treated plates and staying off the concrete walls. You will be concerned if your insulation or drywall gets moist and you end up with mold...

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As I am redoing my basement bar area I have been using the Dense Armour wall board too there is no paper on the board for mold to eat . When I get to the exterior walls I will use either the blue board or have someone come in and spray the polyurethane foam depends on the cost .

Short Drive said:

Carpenters Christmas

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Thanks, I enjoyed that...Merry Carpenter's to you too...

springer said:

As I am redoing my basement bar area I have been using the Dense Armour wall board too there is no paper on the board for mold to eat . When I get to the exterior walls I will use either the blue board or have someone come in and spray the polyurethane foam depends on the cost .

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A lot of people frame right to the concrete walls. Other than the problem with moisture, the other problems is that usually, basement walls are not straight or plumb. It can become real apparent when you get to installing flooring, ceilings and trim.

Well not worried about the flooring, was just going to stain the concrete since they are heated floors. As for the ceiling, yeah not looking forward to all the plenum work. As for trim, not sure, haven't decided that yet.

Ohio-Ed said:

A lot of people frame right to the concrete walls. Other than the problem with moisture, the other problems is that usually, basement walls are not straight or plumb. It can become real apparent when you get to installing flooring, ceilings and trim.

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I have a little OCD when I use wood studs I will plumb everything and if there is a wave either in or out I will add furring strips or plane out the offending 2by. Drives SWMBO nuts when it looks like I have done very little all day but in fact have been shimming and planing. But it makes the trim work and hanging cabinets so much easier.

springer said:

I have a little OCD when I use wood studs I will plumb everything and if there is a wave either in or out I will add furring strips or plane out the offending 2by. Drives SWMBO nuts when it looks like I have done very little all day but in fact have been shimming and planing. But it makes the trim work and hanging cabinets so much easier.

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Not OCD at all - it's called quality. That's why so many of the new "throw-em-up" homes look like crap. Especially if they have an eggshell paint on the walls with any light shining on it - you can count the waves/ripples for days. It's pretty irritating to see. If you put the crowns facing the same direction, you at least get a uniform, if not perfectly plumb, appearance. I guess craft brewers understand craftsmenship in general. Kudos Springer!

Originally Posted by Grizzlybrew
I guess craft brewers understand craftsmenship in general. Kudos Springer!

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EXACTLY!!!
And that is why I posted the question here. :rockin:

Grizzlybrew said:

Not OCD at all - it's called quality. That's why so many of the new "throw-em-up" homes look like crap. Especially if they have an eggshell paint on the walls with any light shining on it - you can count the waves/ripples for days. It's pretty irritating to see. If you put the crowns facing the same direction, you at least get a uniform, if not perfectly plumb, appearance. I guess craft brewers understand craftsmenship in general. Kudos Springer!

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The Makita power plane gets a lot of use. I hate looking down the hallways of new homes some of the waves should have white caps on them. I helped my BIL install new cabinets in his kitchen home that is a few years old and had base cabinets . The wall was way out of plumb and not square. Had to shim the last few cabinets with 1" pine ripped boards and still needed some shims to get it plumb and square. Just shoddy work all around .