Great advice guys!
Is there a reason to use two PID's over just one? I thought that you would need two just incase you wanted to do back to back batches. I was thinking that since I am only using a 30amp breaker that it would probably be best to only use one element at a time. Also saving some money by only having to use one PID. I think the only thing that I will have to do is unplug the temp sensor for one and plug in the other?
There is no
real good reason for a second PID, and is certainly unnecessary. I am using the first PID to control the element in the HLT which is, from what I read, typically set 2 degrees higher than what you want the mash temperature to be. So the first PID will read what the temperature of the water is in the HLT, not the exact temperature of the Mash. My very curious mind wants to know the exact mash temperature is. So honestly i'm spending the extra money for the second PID to use as a glorified temperature readout as well as an alarm (when sparge temp has been reached).
As of right now, I was thinking of mounting the elements in the cooler through the sides. For only the reason that it would allow me to use more water. I was thinking that the higher the water needed to be to keep the element wet, that more likely it would be for me to burn the thing out. I considered a float switch but didnt want to add just another thing, so for now, side mounting.
I'm guessing you mean that going through the side will allow you to use
less water. That is why I too want to go through the side. I've read that it can be tricky to mount this thing through the side of the cooler but it is seems worth the risk. Setting the element in the bottom of my cooler pointing upward it looked like the minimum amount of water required to cover the element would be about 8 gallons. Another note you should be aware of when mounting the camco ULWD 5500 throught the side is that it is a little too long. I was able to bend mine enough that it is now short enough to fit and as little as 2 gallons of water will keep it covered.
As far as which kind of sensor, I really didn't know which one to get. Your idea of putting into a 2" tee is a great one, and BadnewsBrewery has also a good point on taking wort temps and adjusting HLT accordingly. I think that is probably the way to go.
Yea it seems like using a tee and a threaded RTD will be the easiest way. People have raved about the delux cable, its 11$ extra per probe, but I hear its worth that so I plan to add that. The bad news is that it makes the temp sensor as much as the PID!
I will definitely be checking out those receptacles! Thanks for the heads up. Saving money anywhere would be great since these projects always cost more than anticipated! Haha!
Cool, mine were ordered over the weekend and should be here Friday.
The SSR's at ebrewsupply are all sold out, so I was searching on Amazon and found that one. I wasnt sure if it would work though.
I didn't realize they were sold out at ebrewsupply. My bad. I still haven't ordered my SSR and heatsink. That amazon one looks like it should work but I might just pay the extra and get it through auberin as well. I've heard that some of the ebay SSRs have short lives.
By adding the DIN rail and breakers, would I need to update the schematics or is it pretty self explanatory? Yes, terminal ends and tie mounts, I will add also!
There is no need to update the schematics at all. The DIN rail will just make installation significantly easier and keep things organized. Just make sure whichever distribution ends/blocks you get are DIN mountable. It looks like a lot of people choose not to use the breakers but it seems like a good idea. These are also DIN mountable.
Good luck with those purchase orders. Give that credit card a workout! haha
Corey