Since switching to larger bottles - problems with carbonation?

My brother and I switched from 12oz bottles to growlers and 32oz swing tops. Well, the first 2 batches were flat - and were bottled in the growlers. We blamed the twist on caps that may have come loose during the carbonation process. Well, the last batch we popped last night - these were are new 32oz swing top bottles - same deal, lack of carbonation. Nothing to blame with the caps this time? Could it be that we need to wait longer before cracking? Any ideas.

For carbonating in different size bottles. Here's the rules:

Stir priming solution with beer in a bucket before bottling. Stir periodicly while bottling.

After filling and sealing off bottles, store in a warm place. Temp should be 70 degrees.

Leave for 3 weeks. 2 if you must.

They should be good to go if you follow these rules.

If a twist-off or fliptop is flat, try adding a couple carbonation drops and resealing it. A month should have been plenty of time, but I admit I've never tried carbonating in either type of bottle.

it had only been two weeks on the last batch and the ones before. Now realized the basement at my brothers is in the lower 60s and that is most likely the factor here. Called my bro and told him to toss a few under his pillow Ill have to say, bottling in the 32 oz flip tops are real easy, and just perfect for me on a night where two pints are just enough. Found with the growlers, if Im not with my bro, its a touch much.

Make sure you gave yourself enough space at the top of the larger bottle for carbonation process.

I believe, the larger the bottle, the more space you need to leave.

Take a look at a commerical 22oz. vs. 12oz. there is a difference.

Cheers!

ScottT said:

For carbonating in different size bottles. Here's the rules:

Stir priming solution with beer in a bucket before bottling. Stir periodicly while bottling.

After filling and sealing off bottles, store in a warm place. Temp should be 70 degrees.

Leave for 3 weeks. 2 if you must.

They should be good to go if you follow these rules.

Click to expand...

Good rules.

Also, if you are using flocculant yeast, laggering, or extended secondary add some extra yeast. If its fully fermented out...you can use any yeast for bottle conditioning. A highly flocculant yeast (ESB) works great to make a clear beer.

When all else fails....switch to force carbonation

-Eric

eolle said:

Also, if you are using flocculant yeast, laggering, or extended secondary add some extra yeast.

Click to expand...

What's a good amount of yeast to pitch in this context to ensure enough activity to carbonate, but not get a ton of sludge at the bottom of the bottles? I'm thinking about just using one of those 6-gm. dry packs in a 5-gallon batch; that's only 1/8 gm per bottle, but then again I'm only adding 1-3 gm of sugar per bottle to prime so it seems like that little yeast might be enough.

Should be enough yeast. You don't need a lot of yeast....just enough healthy yeast to make sure you generate the CO2.

-Eric