Loc-Line Brewing Uses?

Does anyone know if Loc-Line will work at brewing temps, mash or boil? Any experiences to relate? I'd like to use it for an adjustable return on my HERMS or for the return on a whirlpool in the kettle.

http://www.modularhose.com/

Temperature Specifications:

Melting Point: 329°F

Maximum Operating Temperature: 170°F

I use it running off into the kettle right now with no problems. Plan on recirculating with it in the mash tun.

They used one here as a "sparge" arm in "no sparge" system. it's a great system, and I'm using it as plans for mine now.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/simple-brewing-est-2009-build-147021/

Been using it as a sparge arm for a couple years...

I just used mine for the first time yesterday. I have one in 2 different lids. I loved having it in the lid. when it came to time to transfer to the BK I just slid the lid from the MT over and opened the valve. Sweet.

The material is acetal copolymer. The material in accordance to the rules in 21CFR 177.2470 meets the requirements for food contact. The rule limits temperatures not to exceed 250 degrees F and it is limited use with alcoholic and fatty foods. I know about this material being a Mechanical Designer. It will work for brewing applications. I am currently implementing the Loc-Line system into my Brutus.

I too use Loc-line with my B10. I use the Circle Flow Nozzle Kit #51837 in my mash tun to circulate to keep the channeling down. I also have another that I use for circulating the water in my HLT and to moving the wort into the boil kettle. Works great!!

What are the benefits of this line vs say a copper recirculation or sparge arm? Is it just the versatility of the flex?

J-Malone said:

What are the benefits of this line vs say a copper recirculation or sparge arm? Is it just the versatility of the flex?

Click to expand...

That's exactly why I bought it.

HopHead24 said:

I too use Loc-line with my B10. I use the Circle Flow Nozzle Kit #51837 in my mash tun to circulate to keep the channeling down. I also have another that I use for circulating the water in my HLT and to moving the wort into the boil kettle. Works great!!

Click to expand...

Nice. Hadn't seen one of those. I assume one end is sealed so the wort backs up and exits all of the holes? Do you have to use higher flow rates to get it to exit from every hole?

Yambor44 said:

Nice. Hadn't seen one of those. I assume one end is sealed so the wort backs up and exits all of the holes? Do you have to use higher flow rates to get it to exit from every hole?

Click to expand...

Yes one end is sealed. I use just a little higher rate but not too much. I don't get water out of every hole but enough to have a nice trickle. I use an additional piece of Loc-line so that it sits just above the mash in my keggle when brewing 5 gallons.

HopHead24 said:

Yes one end is sealed. I use just a little higher rate but not too much. I don't get water out of every hole but enough to have a nice trickle. I use an additional piece of Loc-line so that it sits just above the mash in my keggle when brewing 5 gallons.

Click to expand...

So does this get clogged when you recirc? It looks like a great solution, I'd just hate to clog the thing in the first few minutes....

ScubaSteve said:

So does this get clogged when you recirc? It looks like a great solution, I'd just hate to clog the thing in the first few minutes....

Click to expand...

No clogs yet. Holes are pretty big though.

HopHead24 said:

I use the Circle Flow Nozzle Kit #51837 in my mash tun to circulate to keep the channeling down.

Click to expand...

How do you think Circle Flow Nozzel Kit would work in the bottom of the MLT in place of a manifold or braid?

Probably not nearly enough holes....

AnOldUR said:

How do you think Circle Flow Nozzel Kit would work in the bottom of the MLT in place of a manifold or braid?

Click to expand...

Prob not holes are kinda big. I bet it would clog.
I agree with Skuba.

Damn, I wish they made that in 3/4". I'm gonna have to keep that on the radar; that's the bees knees!

Looks like you have some channeling setting up in the above pic....it's just goin right down the center. Have you tried offsetting every other nozzle so it keeps everything distributed? Does it even allow you to do it?

ScubaSteve said:

Damn, I wish they made that in 3/4". I'm gonna have to keep that on the radar; that's the bees knees!

Looks like you have some channeling setting up in the above pic....it's just goin right down the center. Have you tried offsetting every other nozzle so it keeps everything distributed? Does it even allow you to do it?

Click to expand...

I had raised up the lid so the loc line could be seen. Yes you can offset. once it's on top of the mash they kinda shoot upward a bit. Good point though. I will off set next mash. I bet you could use your 3/4" inlet I'm assuming, and reduce down to 1/2" in order to use it.

+1 on Loc-line. I have had no prob with temps. Read all the many posts on here about folks who contacted manufacturer etc., mine work great. Make sure to clean/soak it good or recirculate well if using in boil kettle

HopHead24 said:

Prob not holes are kinda big. I bet it would clog.
I agree with Skuba.

Click to expand...

You guy's are probably right about using it for the manifold in a MLT, but I think I’ll give it a try. There’s nothing wrong with the braid I’m using in my MLT now. This just looks like an interesting experiment. I use Loc-Line for coolant in my shop, so it won’t go to waste if it doesn’t work.

I did a lot of searching and found the hole sizes people used in manifolds ranged from 1/32” to 3/16” diameter. And they all report good results. The holes in the Loc-Line are about 1/8”. Seems big, but it might make up for only having 25 of them in my Loc-Line ring.

I boiled water in it to see how it would hold up to the temperature and to remove any oils from manufacturing. Everything seemed fine and it only left about one quart in the bottom of the MLT when drained.

Giving it a try tomorrow. Worst case, I have to dump the mash into a bucket and put the braid back on.

Wow, looks nice! Can't wait to hear how it performs.

Yambor44 said:

Wow, looks nice! Can't wait to hear how it performs.

Click to expand...

I'll be shocked if it works.


_

wildwest450 said:

I'll be shocked if it works.


_

Click to expand...

Oh, me too. It does look nice though!

Damn! Now you guys are starting to make me real nervous. Batch sparge, if that makes any difference. Not worried about channeling, just getting stuck.

Well, just keep a second pot nearby and dump it all in there when you switch to a braid or manifold....IF you need to....you could be onto something here....I won't discourage experimentation! Try to point your nozzles down as much as you can....hopefully will discourage grain from getting in. Something else to think about; you could throw a long bit of screen or fabric over it to keep the crap out.

I use loc-line for wort recirculation return to kettle from my plate chiller and use the same link as a CIP keg washer to clean it too. I put a male quick disconnect at the end of the wort out (for a spout) and then a female QD on my CIP rotating head and just clamp it on for CIP. Also use other links as 'patchbay' line for my water in/discharge out line and can swing it over to the recently cleaned mash tun to collect chill water from chilling (which ends up being somewhere around 130* for after collecting 15 gals, almost enough start a second mash). Much safer, cause I know that the loc-line isn't going to jump around with back pressure like flexible tubing would. It's also really nice to cool down the grains fast after mashing so I can vacuum out sooner.

One thing about loc-line is that the rigidity goes up as the temp increases. I've found that it can even 'pop off' of a link much easier if you are fiddling with placement when it's hot, so I NEVER fiddle with placement while the pumps are running. I'm going to apply (lightly) some keg lube to all links that aren't for wort recirc so that they maneuver easier while hot. It gets quite creaky without.

I use line-loc to hold my float switch in the mash tun. I ran the wiring inside then slid a piece of silicone tubing over the outside making it easy to clean.

Mike

wildwest450 said:

I'll be shocked if it works.

Click to expand...

Where would you like the electrodes placed?


One batch doesn’t mean it’s a system worth sticking with, but damn, it worked!
And with a grain bill that half was made up of wheat and rye.
Not saying it was the fastest lauter I've ever had, but it wasn't bad.

(did throw in a few hand fulls of rice hulls)

AnOldUR said:

Where would you like the electrodes placed?

Click to expand...

I guess on my balls. That is a surprise, good on ya.


_

AnOldUR said:

Where would you like the electrodes placed?


One batch doesn’t mean it’s a system worth sticking with, but damn, it worked!
And with a grain bill that half was made up of wheat and rye.
Not saying it was the fastest lauter I've ever had, but it wasn't bad.

(did throw in a few hand fulls of rice hulls)

Click to expand...

I think it's cool that it worked! I'm all about discovering new stuff like this. But what's the takeaway? Is there a benefit to using this over a FB or Braid? As a sparge tool, it looks awesome.

Question 1: Did you take 2 of these and somehow connect them so they formed a circle?

Question 2: What was your efficiency?

I am pleasantly surprised!! Good to hear!

ScubaSteve said:

Question 1: Did you take 2 of these and somehow connect them so they formed a circle?

Question 2: What was your efficiency?

Click to expand...

Yeah, it's two stuck together with a "double socket" fitting connecting them. Efficiency was the same that I always get, but I batch sparge, so I didn't expect any change. The wort either comes out or it doesn't.

So, in the end, your right. There is no real advantage for me other than looking better than the braid. It would be interesting to see if it would work with fly sparging. Never done that, but might have to give it a try.

I think it if works the same it would have a slight advantage vs. the braid as it wouldn't flatten out under weight over time. Fly sparging is slow so it may just work, especially with the rice hulls.

AnOldUR said:

Yeah, it's two stuck together with a "double socket" fitting connecting them. Efficiency was the same that I always get, but I batch sparge, so I didn't expect any change. The wort either comes out or it doesn't.

So, in the end, your right. There is no real advantage for me other than looking better than the braid. It would be interesting to see if it would work with fly sparging. Never done that, but might have to give it a try.

Click to expand...

Not trying to prove you wrong, just seeing where else we can use this stuff. It's nice to have modular stuff like this.....

I am mildly concerned that this hose may cause hot-side aeration as I am using it for my MLT wort return line in my HERMS system. The reason for my concern is the shape of the hose; it is not smooth. Has anyone had any problems or can any ME out there chime in.

I HERMS with locline and the only time I've ever had a HSA issue was when I had air trapped in my system. It was an AmStout that foamed way up in the MLT but showed no ill effects. I always make sure I purge the air now and have the return below the top of the mash and have no issues. Start the recirc before you dough in and you'll be fine.

I use loc-line as a return from my RIMS tube into my 10 Gallon Igloo MLT. After about 20 batches, I've had no issues at all. I love that I can easily adapt to varying batch sizes. I run the nozzle onto a plastic plate that floats on top of the gain bed.

I was thinking of getting the loop, but I am concerned about channeling.

Sorry to revive an old thread...
is there any difference in the color of locline? I have seen blue, orange, and black? (Black is the one from Brewhardware http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/mashrecirculation.htm

blue is from Grainger)

Thanks

Looks like black and blue is the same, yellow is acid resistant:

http://www.loc-line.com/specifications/