sissy beer advise needed :)

I 'm trying to brew a very light colored ale with ~5% ABV and muted hops
The Reason: I'm trying to tailor a recipe to my Wife who drinks bud I would like for her to enjoy my brew, I don't want to offend with too much hop for her or too high a ABV so that being said here is what I'm thinking:
1# crushed 2 row
maybe a couple oz of crystal 60L
4 or 5# pilsen DME
1 oz Willamette pellets (finish only)
I have know idea as to how to keep the color light, either. I've brewed with similar and come out with what I would consider amber beer. suggestions for keeping the brew light colored would be welcome

On hand I have more 2 row, more crystal, more DME, another oz of hops and a WL american ale starter or a notingham starter.

What do you guys think?

Keep the caramel to a minimum if you're after a very light colored beer. Also, when using extract it causes a darker beer but you can do late extract addition to reduce this. Only add 1-1.5# of the extract at the beginning of your boil, and add the rest with only 15 minutes left in the boil. This will keep the extract from carmelizing and will keep the color light.

If it were me, I'd still add hops at the beginning of the boil...but keep it light, about 1/4 to 1/2 oz. Use the remaining with 5 minutes left in the boil. There really won't be any bitterness to speak of with this addition, but it will balance out the sweetness of your beer. Using 5# of DME in a 5 gallon batch with yield a nice 4.2% ABV, and a very low IBU of 12.6.

To keep the color light: do a full boil if possible, if not search and read up on adding the extract late in the boil. This should get you the light color.

You could probably skip the 2-row, it won't add too much. And the crystal will only add color and sweetness.

If you can get it, about 1.5lbs of rice syrup will add some fermentable sugar without the flavor or color of the malt (and you will stay true to your Bud-like goal). And reduce the amount of DME accordingly to get your desired ABV. If you are interested in using rice from the grocery store, look into a partial mash.

Add enough of the hops at 60min to hit about 12 IBUs, this will be enough to balance any sweetness that will remain but not overpower anything. If you want the flavor or aroma add some of the hops at the finish. Willamette is a good choice in either case.

I would use the WL American ale (WLP060?) yeast over the Nottingham. Ferment on the cooler side of the recommended range and I think you turn out a beer that will make her (and you) very happy.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply. I'll try it.

The best way to keep the color light with extract is to do a late extraction addition of the DME. Read through some of these posts might help you decide.

+1 on the wlp 060 american ale blend. i did a cascade blonde AG about 2 mo ago and was told by my budlite drinking friends that its their fav beer of mine so far

8# pilsener
1/2# carapils
1/2# white wheat (2 srm)
1.5 oz cascade 90min 36ibu
.5oz cacade 10min 4ibu

1/3/kegged
mashed at @151 or so
est srm 4.2
og 1.047
fg 1.012

You can also use rice solids instead of about half of your malt, and even skip steeping grains.

if I used rice solids would I need yeast nutrients

My Coors Light and Bud drinking wife has enjoyed my Blonde Ale, Best Bitter and Pilsner so far. The blonde ale is so easy to do.

Extract?

1lb Light DME added with 60 to boil.
1oz of mid alpha hops 4-6AA for 60min
3lbs Light DME added with 15 minutes remaining.
US-05 dry yeast

You absolutely need a bittering hop.. period. Otherwise it will taste like sugar beer, not Bud.

Pilsen dme or xtra light DME. late add at least 50% of the DME and only use bittering hops and not finishing hops. +1 on the rice solids also. I brew a beer every once in awhile for a canoe trip. It is 6 pounds of xtra light dme and 1 oz of a german or continental europe hop. (saaz, Hallertau, etc...)

azrednex said:

if I used rice solids would I need yeast nutrients

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Where did this notion come from? I've used rice solids several time for specific purposes, have never used yeast nutrients and never had a problem.

Beware of anything given to you as an absolute rule in home brewing, because there are damn few of them.

I would use a bittering hop only. Beer needs initial bite and women tend to hate aftertaste. If it has a clean taste at the end it will be liked. If you add all of the hops at the end it will just have aftertaste.

Forrest

OK, I steeped 8 oz of two row and did a 3 gallon boil (the largest I can do) with 1.5# DME and 1/2 oz willamette for 60 min. I added 3# more DME @ 45 min and another oz willamette. The wort had a definate green cast that I'm hoping will translate to a yellowish beer. It smelled good so I'm thinking that if the Wife doesn't like it, I won't have a problem polishing it off. Thank you everyone for the advise. Jonah AZ

SteveM said:

Where did this notion come from? I've used rice solids several time for specific purposes, have never used yeast nutrients and never had a problem.

Beware of anything given to you as an absolute rule in home brewing, because there are damn few of them.

Click to expand...

The notion came from me. I asked because I've been told that adjucts require yeast nutrient if you want the 3-5 day fermentation that is common with all malt ales. I just didn't know if rice was considered an "adjuct".

i would never count on a 3-5 day fermentation. your gravity might get down, but it needs more time in the fermenter.

sounds like the beer session went well. if the wife doesn't go for this one, look into making a cream ale...BMC drinkers love 'em!

gotta respect the wife that drinks homebrew, but the less she drinks the more for ma haha

Joe

DeathBrewer said:

i would never count on a 3-5 day fermentation. your gravity might get down, but it needs more time in the fermenter.

sounds like the beer session went well. if the wife doesn't go for this one, look into making a cream ale...BMC drinkers love 'em!

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I dont count on a 3-5 day. It's in the primary for 1 week and then the secondary for another week. Then to the keg for a few days usually. I'de like to leave it in the secondary for longer but my appetite needs to be fed.