I am wanting to convert my 10 gallon kettle into a stove assisted ekettle. I dont want anything fancy with PID just a simple plug in and brew. My kitchen has 1 20amp circuit with a 15amp plug. I live in an appartment which is very old but well kept and I am not sure what condition the wiring is in. Because of these factors should I stick to 1500W max or can I move up to something higher such as 1650-2000? I would like to stick with a 120V element to save on size as i use a false bottom with 3 legs and a big rippled element might cause a problem. Also, some elements i look at are made with SS some are zinc coated. Does this matter? Any adivce would be much appreciated.
simple ekettle questions...please help me from burning down my apt
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orangehero
Well-Known Member
Get this SS 120V 2000W. Cover the face with food grade silicone sealant to prevent rusting.
Don't get the zinc plated ones, the plating will come off perhaps adding unhealthy doses of zinc to your brew.
The 2000W will work on your 20A circuit. The 15A outlet is not an issue as long as you have 12 gauge wire running to it and it is GFCI. Usually kitchens have two 20A GFCI, one on each side of the kitchen.
2000W is better as it will heat wort quicker, and then you can dial in the boil on the stove.
Don't get the zinc plated ones, the plating will come off perhaps adding unhealthy doses of zinc to your brew.
The 2000W will work on your 20A circuit. The 15A outlet is not an issue as long as you have 12 gauge wire running to it and it is GFCI. Usually kitchens have two 20A GFCI, one on each side of the kitchen.
2000W is better as it will heat wort quicker, and then you can dial in the boil on the stove.
Regarding the zinc plating, I have two Home Depot elements in my keggle. Are these zinc plated? Can anyone chime in regarding the level of danger here?
As for a 15A outlet on a 20A line, you could easily change the receptacle. A 20A plug will not fit in a 15A outlet.
Will this element be mounted in your brew pot?
The apartment complex was built in the 50s but has undergone several rounds of refurbishment i am assuming. I'm sure it is up to code. I could turn off the breaker and look at the wire to see if it is in good condition. I will be mounting this with a weldless kit into my SS kettle. Do I need to use a 20A plug or can I just use a 15A plug? I was planning on buying some 12 gauge wire and plug and put it all together myself. Again thanks for all the help
You may already know this, but a 20A receptacle has a different prong than a 15A. So that's the first concern.
2000W/120v = 16.7Amps. This is the draw of a 2000W element. So you'll want a 20A line dedicated to it with nothing else on the line.
How much are you boiling here? 2000W will get you a pretty nice boil on your average 6 gallon batch in the brew pot. So if you have a stove and you just want to supplement, you can go with less and then not worry about the draw so much. Get a 1500W element and you should be in business, that is, unless you're doing 10 gallon batches on the stove.
Your use of the word "wire" when discussing the element concerns me. Standard Romex is not waterproof and not meant to be moved around. You'll want to consult a build thread to get all the info you need. If you misspoke and know what to do, my apologies.
Check out Kal's build. The electric Brewery.
Also CHECK OUT THIS THREAD for ideas on how to properly pot your element.
2000W/120v = 16.7Amps. This is the draw of a 2000W element. So you'll want a 20A line dedicated to it with nothing else on the line.
How much are you boiling here? 2000W will get you a pretty nice boil on your average 6 gallon batch in the brew pot. So if you have a stove and you just want to supplement, you can go with less and then not worry about the draw so much. Get a 1500W element and you should be in business, that is, unless you're doing 10 gallon batches on the stove.
Your use of the word "wire" when discussing the element concerns me. Standard Romex is not waterproof and not meant to be moved around. You'll want to consult a build thread to get all the info you need. If you misspoke and know what to do, my apologies.
Check out Kal's build. The electric Brewery.
Also CHECK OUT THIS THREAD for ideas on how to properly pot your element.
jkarp
Well-Known Member
Not really. Code allows 15A outlets on 20A circuits. In fact, that's normal in most kitchens.
I have been doing a lot of reading on the electric brewery page and it is my main write up to follow. I do have a 15A outlet (not a 20 with the horizontal slot). Can I run a 2000W element plugged into a 15A outlet? I have been looking mainly at 2000W cause of the LWD elements but reading a little more it seems like the scorching with HD elements is a myth so I may just go with a 1500W since I can use my stove as an assist.
jkarp
Well-Known Member
Is the breaker and wiring rated for 20A? If so and the 15A outlet concerns you, it's a trivial swap - 20A outlets are compatible with 15A plugs.
nate456789
Well-Known Member
Dgonza9 said:
The zinc plated ones from home depot were the first ones that I tested when looking for elements. I used a simple bucket and filled it up. Never dry fired it.
I had millions of sparkles in my bucket from the plating coming off. Along with some kind if film floating along the top of the water. I ditched that element for an all copper one that I found at Menards.
I have a post on here detailing it along with a part number I believe.
I am 100% positive the breaker is 20A. My concern is running a 2000W element on a 15A outlet with a 15A plug. If it is a problem I can put in a 20A outlet but since I am in an apartment I would prefer not to rewire anything.
jkarp
Well-Known Member
It's fine. The code allows it. I know loads of CB20 builders who run on standard 20A circuits with 15A plugs.
I was just cautioning against wiring a 20A plug and then finding it didn't fit the receptacle. Some of us didn't know that the first time around (meaning me)
Sounds like you're all good. I still say 1500W is plenty for a stove top boil aid if you're less than 10 gallons. But hey, to each his own.I recently built two heatsticks for my 10 gal setup (12 gal boils). You can use a 240 volt element but run it at 120 and get 1/4 the wattage and a much cooler element. I did this for the stick for warming the mash to prevent scorching. So my 5500 watt element is really 1375 watts.
I also have a high density short 1500 watt 120v element. I ended up using both in the mash and for the boil on a very light cream ale. No scorching, carmelizing, or burning of the mash - everything came out fine so I tend to agree that the HD elements will not burn the wort or even the mash (but I did have a thin mash and I stirred constantly with the stick).
It took a bit but I got a very respectable boil going with 12.5 gal using both elements (total wattage=2875). I expect a single 1500 watt element would get a good boil going on a 5 gal batch. Might not be the quickest but hey, have a beer and rest, that's what I do. If the stove is helping then you'd be fine for sure.
As to the zinc debate, I don't see the problem
1. zinc is a mineral that the body needs (in small doses)
2. these go in hot water that's intended to be potable so why would you think they'd be dangerous in beer that's also intended to be potable?
Granted, the beer is slightly acidic but so too is very soft water which some households have. I don't think the elements shed toxic amounts of zinc or anything else into the water or the wort. My beer certainly does not taste metallic. I think the beer is probably a greater threat to my health than both the zinc elements and the plastic cooler that so many worry about.
Lastly, I would do heatsticks instead of mounting them in the vessel. Much more versatile and easier to clean. If you do want to do a heatstick then I'd propose a few minor modifications to the instructions floating around.. but I'm getting ahead of myself..
Oh and I think the wiring will be fine. If you can run a hair dryer safely then you should be able to run an element, right?
I also have a high density short 1500 watt 120v element. I ended up using both in the mash and for the boil on a very light cream ale. No scorching, carmelizing, or burning of the mash - everything came out fine so I tend to agree that the HD elements will not burn the wort or even the mash (but I did have a thin mash and I stirred constantly with the stick).
It took a bit but I got a very respectable boil going with 12.5 gal using both elements (total wattage=2875). I expect a single 1500 watt element would get a good boil going on a 5 gal batch. Might not be the quickest but hey, have a beer and rest, that's what I do. If the stove is helping then you'd be fine for sure.
As to the zinc debate, I don't see the problem
1. zinc is a mineral that the body needs (in small doses)
2. these go in hot water that's intended to be potable so why would you think they'd be dangerous in beer that's also intended to be potable?
Granted, the beer is slightly acidic but so too is very soft water which some households have. I don't think the elements shed toxic amounts of zinc or anything else into the water or the wort. My beer certainly does not taste metallic. I think the beer is probably a greater threat to my health than both the zinc elements and the plastic cooler that so many worry about.
Lastly, I would do heatsticks instead of mounting them in the vessel. Much more versatile and easier to clean. If you do want to do a heatstick then I'd propose a few minor modifications to the instructions floating around.. but I'm getting ahead of myself..
Oh and I think the wiring will be fine. If you can run a hair dryer safely then you should be able to run an element, right?
A while back I started a thread to gather opinions on heatsticks vs. mounting in the kettle.
HERE'S THE THREAD
Thought it might help you to decide. I started with heat sticks but then mounted in the keggle. Safety was a concern as after about a year I had a heat stick trip the gfci. I never really worried about it much before that. Plus, I had a few bad experiences stirring the mash with a heat stick. It created hot spots in the mash.
But that's just me. There are also many wonderful things about them.
HERE'S THE THREAD
Thought it might help you to decide. I started with heat sticks but then mounted in the keggle. Safety was a concern as after about a year I had a heat stick trip the gfci. I never really worried about it much before that. Plus, I had a few bad experiences stirring the mash with a heat stick. It created hot spots in the mash.
But that's just me. There are also many wonderful things about them.
