OMJ
Well-Known Member
Anyone done with with 2" triclamp ferules? If so what size hole did you use and what size fittings did you use to make the hole.
Anyone done with with 2" triclamp ferules? If so what size hole did you use and what size fittings did you use to make the hole.
If you don't mind like to stick my two cents in.
I have used silver solder for several years, some for fittings on stainless steel gas tanks, and a few custom fittings for brewers. There are several good brands myself I like sta-brite solder and acid.
For a tool I have found that a large very large Iron the one I have a present is 150 watt. I found better control and less of change of overheating like with a torch.
Just my two cents
Swagman
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...ver+bearing+solder&storeId=10051#.UIrE7mfheCc
Would this stuff work? They have it at my local TSC.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...ver+bearing+solder&storeId=10051#.UIrE7mfheCc
Would this stuff work? They have it at my local TSC.
No problem at all. The Stay-Brite 8 just has a a greater liquid temperature range. Both of them can and will perform well and do the job.Hey guys, how important is it to use stay-brite 8 vs just stay-brite solder? I ordered some stay-brite on eBay without realizing the difference. I think I read a post or two that said it worked well. I did get the stay clean liquid flux.
No problem at all. The Stay-Brite 8 just has a greater liquid temperature range. Both of them can and will perform well and do the job.
P-J
Can you make the dimple a little larger with your dimple tool? It looks REALLY close
Grinder to the edge of the coupling to get enough of a taper to pull it through?
The spuds are super easy. No dimpling is needed. Drilling the hole was more of a pain for me than the soldering. I've had more trouble installing weldless kits.
To prepare for soldering, simply wind the Stay Brite around the boss of the spud overlapping on each turn, like a clock spring. Wind all the way to the edge of the flange. You basically want solder fully covering the back face of the spud where it contacts the outer tank wall.
Liberally apply the flux on all surfaces you want the solder to stick to. (This stuff is pretty strong. Wear proper PPE. You may notice it bubbling/fizzing.)
With the hole in the vessel facing up, rest the spud in the hole, with the solder sandwiched in between. Gravity is all you need... nothing else is needed to keep it in place.
Light your torch and start heating. You mostly want to heat from the top, and mostly on the spud... but really just keep the torch moving. Don't overthink it. The flux will boil and turn black and then magically the solder will melt and the spud will sink down nicely on to the vessel. Don't over do it. Once it sweats all around you are pretty much done.
After it cools down you will be ecstatic once you see how nice the bead fillet is on the inside.
1. You'll be good with the regular Stay Brite. The flux+solder kit is more than enough for your homebrew projects. I'm pretty sure it's 1/16.
2. I had the same issue with the bolt. I wish I ordered it from McMaster when I ordered the tool parts. I figured I'd go to HD and get one. FAIL. That and my issue with too large & too small couplers is why I abandoned the dimpling method at this time and went with spuds.
3. Not sure on the 1/4" spud but you are pretty much in drill bit range on that, so I'd just get the spud in hand and select the smallest bit that exceeds the OD of the boss.
2. Planning on making the keg tool from nostalgia instructions, and from what I have read, I should really go with the 9/16" bolt, but I can not for the life of me find a 9/16" bolt fully threaded. Where are people finding these bolts, or does it really even matter if it is fully thread
Spuds are great, their downside is that they are single sided vs. a fitting can be put on each side of the coupling.
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