50A Kill-a-Watt?

Does anybody know of a similar product (or implementable method) for measuring total kWh used over the course of a brew session, on a 50A/220V system? I need a way to accurately measure the cost of my brew sessions.

Mathematically estimating it isn't sufficient for me because of uncertainty due to cycling (especially during the mash where it can't just be set to a certain percentage), among other reasons. You may disagree, but regardless, that's not what I'm looking for.

what about running it thru an actual power meter, kinda like that one on the houses main power inlet. Kinda like this

http://mollelec.en.alibaba.com/product/470193691-212510661/High_Quality_DIN_RAIL_KWH_METER.html

Just shut off everything in your house. Read the meter before and after the brew. Pretty simple and free.

Shut off (and unplug) right?

NewBrewB said:

Shut off (and unplug) right?

Click to expand...

The only items you would have to consider would be the A/C in the house and the fridge. Residual power consumption from "phantom" power sources would most likely not amount to much more than a penny or two over the course of a brewing session.

emjay said:

Does anybody know of a similar product (or implementable method) for measuring total kWh used over the course of a brew session, on a 50A/220V system? I need a way to accurately measure the cost of my brew sessions.

Mathematically estimating it isn't sufficient for me because of uncertainty due to cycling (especially during the mash where it can't just be set to a certain percentage), among other reasons. You may disagree, but regardless, that's not what I'm looking for.

Click to expand...

Check your local library, I borrowed one from there a few months back and was amazed to find out the fridge that was making a lot of noise starting up, was actually costing my $50 a month due to high current draw.

You could probably use 2 killawatts, one on each leg of the 240VAC. You'd have to wire up an inline box with a couple of plugs in it, but I think it would work. I might give it a test myself. I've got a killawatt (Home Depot sells them for about $20).

You could just measure 1 leg and double the Amps you read, but if you have any 120V devices you'll measure wrong.

I"m assuming you are talking about a 240V split phase power (U.S.) and not the single phase 220V used in Europe.

pb4ugoout said:

The only items you would have to consider would be the A/C in the house and the fridge. Residual power consumption from "phantom" power sources would most likely not amount to much more than a penny or two over the course of a brewing session.

Click to expand...

You're forgetting about electric water heater, pump (if on well water) and whatnot. I also disagree about phantom power being trivial. Even with everything off, my entertainment center (plasma tv, cable box, AV receiver, BluRay, sub) draws about half an amp. If the OP wouldn't be satisfied with calculated estimates, then these other variables would likely also be a problem.

10 charac

Thanks for all the help. I think a power meter like a house uses may be the best option. If I do that, I'll probably mount it on the wall next to the breaker panel, connected between the GFCI breaker and the outlet.

Anybody know of any meters that come with some sort of networking capability - wired or wireless - for advanced logging (eg an html interface)?

passedpawn said:

You could probably use 2 killawatts, one on each leg of the 240VAC. You'd have to wire up an inline box with a couple of plugs in it, but I think it would work. I might give it a test myself. I've got a killawatt (Home Depot sells them for about $20).

You could just measure 1 leg and double the Amps you read, but if you have any 120V devices you'll measure wrong.

I"m assuming you are talking about a 240V split phase power (U.S.) and not the single phase 220V used in Europe.

Click to expand...

Yes, split phase power with 2 x 120V legs. Problem with the Killawatts is not so much the voltage as it is the amperage... I haven't seen any rated for more than 30A.

couldn't you just get a current transformer?

http://www.veris.com/Item/H722.aspx