dadshomebrewing
Well-Known Member
hi there gang
it's been a while (like since about christmas)
howz trix?
it's been a while (like since about christmas)
howz trix?
Still as fruity as ever, she got naked at work with... Oh wait, you weren't talking about her...hi there gang
it's been a while (like since about christmas)
howz trix?
Does it look like there is sufficient head space to do a 2.5 gallon brew? It would be nice to try simply cutting 5-gallon recipes in half.
I have a Simcoe IPA ready to go sometime soon.
hi there gang
it's been a while (like since about christmas)
howz trix?
The advantage of propane is that it delivers a lot of energy very quickly. That lets you boil more liquid faster. For up to about 3 gallons I don't see that you actually need that. If you're boiling 9 gallons, yeah then you probably need something like that.
Hey everyone, haven't posted in this thread in a while now. Hope everyone is doing well. I'm brewing up a big batch right now but I just came back from Germany and I've got all kinds of small batch brews I need to work on. Beers I never knew existed and I'm so glad I had the chance to try them.
Brew on!
Broham1 said:Common culprit for losing "hoppiness" is taking too long to chill the wort after the boil. What's your chill process?
Good point, but my limited reading says you want to get under 170 pretty quickly to maximize aroma. Am I remembering this incorrectly?bleme said:I'm having a hard time reconciling this with hop stands.
Common culprit for losing "hoppiness" is taking too long to chill the wort after the boil. What's your chill process?
Made 2 1-gallon brews recently, a BD Hardcore IPA clone and a AV Hop 'Ottin clone, neither of them smelled hoppy after the boil despite the first one is an IIPA and i boiled down (did a 90min boil instead of 60 because i heard that pilsner malt might need that) the second one to IIPA ballpark (with added extra hops). I guess they will be hoppy after the dryhop but is this normal? I could smell only the malts.
I generally have to reheat my mash after the first 20 minutes and that causes all kinds of different temps in my wort. (bottom being too hot while top being too cold) But according to this blogpost the bulk of the conversion happens in the first 20 minutes anyways.
http://braukaiser.com/blog/blog/2011/03/04/conversion-progress-in-a-single-infusion-mash/
Is that means that if i can keep a good temp in the first 20 minutes then i can't really mess up my sugars in the remaining 40 minutes?
Are you mashing in a pot or cooler? If its in a pot, put it in a preheated oven (warm setting...turn off when you put the pot in.) You will not lose a single degree and see no swings. Why do you have to reheat in the first 20? Even when I was doing stove top, I found the first 15 minutes were the most consistent. If all else fails...you want your temps to rise slightly, not drop. In otherwords. If you can hold it at 150, then have it creep to 155 over the last 40 minutes. You shouldn't see a drop in efficiency or effects on your beer. The higher the temp, the less conversion. If it drops lower, you will get a higher OG, and a thinner beer. I would keep my pot on low on the stove and have to stir every few minutes to keep the heat down. Very consistent and always hit my numbers but annoying.
As for the hops...two points. First, what is your water like? This sounds like your water is not allowing the hops to shine. Second, as a hop head, what does your hop schedule look like? I just finished a hop bomb with 2 ozs in the boil. I FWH, then do a 60 minute but they never give more than 10-20% of the IBUs I'm after. From there, I start decent size (usually 4x the additions of the early hops) hop additions at 20 and every 5 minutes from there on out. I do a hop stand with 1+ oz at flameout. You can smell these beers across the room when you crack a bottle. Decent dry hop and your looking at a hop monster.
View attachment 152419
$10 at BevMo. Get yours today because this is a when they're gone they're gone items.
Anyone using the rims tube during their mashed with her one gallon setup. I figure I can use my rims to be to maintain a perfect mash temperature. But I don't want to buy any additional gear.
Flomaster said:$10 at BevMo. Get yours today because this is a when they're gone they're gone items. Anyone using the rims tube during their mashed with her one gallon setup. I figure I can use my rims to be to maintain a perfect mash temperature. But I don't want to buy any additional gear.
Broham1 said:Common culprit for losing "hoppiness" is taking too long to chill the wort after the boil. What's your chill process?
YES, includes everything in the photo: 1 gallon jug, cap, airlock, tubing, tubing clamp,racking cane, thermometer, sanitizer, and IPA all Grain kit: (Yeast, Hops, Grains)Including carboy and airlock?
BEVMO tonight! That's a steal!
I followed these recipes:
20 AAU Simcoe @ 90
20 AAU Warrior @ 90
13 AAU Chinook @ 0
2 oz Amarillo dry hopped (the beer is still fermenting so this have not been added yet)
and
1 oz CTZ @ FWH
0.5 oz CTZ @ 20 minutes from end
1 oz Cascade @ 10 minutes from end
1 oz CTZ @ 5 minutes from end
(i added about 0.5 oz (adjusted for 5 gal) amarillo at flame out because why not)
2 oz Cascade @ dry hop for 7 days (the beer is still fermenting so this have not been added yet)
Both are those recipes are for 5 gallons, i divided the amounts by 5 for my recipes.
Try an ounce at flamout and an ounce dryhop. That is what I do, I also follow more of the second recipe's style of additions with 20-0 additions every 5 minutes. My over-the-top recipes would use nearly twice this. I used 2 ounces in the boil for my last hop monster.
1oz @ 0 and 1oz dry hop for a 1 gallon brew? That is almost twice the amount than used in a pliny the elder.
(Btw i am brewing in central-europe, it is not impossible that my hops were old/stored under bad conditions. Would ordering from the US harm my hops? That means a 1-2 week long journey for my hops mostly around 70F temp i guess)
Calichusetts said:You sure? If you scale it up to a barrel your not even talking about 4 pounds of hops...I know many breweries that do 4-6 pounds per barrel for their hoppy beers, some more!
1oz @ 0 and 1oz dry hop for a 1 gallon brew? That is almost twice the amount than used in a pliny the elder.
(Btw i am brewing in central-europe, it is not impossible that my hops were old/stored under bad conditions. Would ordering from the US harm my hops? That means a 1-2 week long journey for my hops mostly around 70F temp i guess)
You sure? If you scale it up to a barrel your not even talking about 4 pounds of hops...I know many breweries that do 4-6 pounds per barrel for their hoppy beers, some more!
I think you are running into a unit conversion problem. There are several units of measure for liquid called a barrel, and two called a gallon.If you scale up the other hops as well, you are looking at 19 pounds of hops total.
Let us know if your taste buds ever come out of hiding.Sure...here we go:
1 barrel of beer = 31 US gallons
1 pound = 16 ounces
If a brewery is using 5 pounds per barrel for a hoppy beer that is 80 ounces of hops (16 x 5)
80 ounces of hops divided by 31 (we brew 1 gallon not 31) is 2.5 ounces in a one gallon brew
I often put 1 oz in for flameout. .5 ounces over the last 20 minutes. And a tiny bitter addition of maybe .1 ounces. Finally, 1 oz dry hop and my hoppy beers, just like hoppy commercial use around 2.6 ounces a gallon. I am a hop head so this is usually my minimum. I just did one with 4 ounces total
I feel you on the "hate". Here is what I generally say:I'm tired of hearing all you big boy 5-Gallon brewers telling us 1-Gallon brewers to step up. A lot of us brew 1-Gallon batches because that's all we have room for right now, not because we're afraid of stepping up our game. Trust me, if I could, I would, but in the meantime I'm actually really feeling the 1-Gallon game. Here's why:
Brew Day takes me about 3-4 hours, which includes cleanup.
I know one of the main points from 5-Gallon brewers is that "if you brew something amazing, you only have 10 bottles of it." My response- "Yea? So?" If I brew something amazing, chances are I'll brew something else amazing, and then perhaps I'll go back and brew that amazing beer again. And again.
5-Gallon brewers are always so quick to tell me- "Why put all that work in for just 10 beers." I'm not sure about you guys, but I don't consider my brew days as "work." I'm an insurance underwriter by day, but thoroughly enjoy cooking and now, brewing. I love the processes, and feel that it actually calms me. So work? I think not...
And lastly, I love the fact that I always have new things coming out of my pipeline. Yea, I just finished up drinking a really great IPA kit, but as sad as I may be to see it go, I can't wait to crack open my Weinstephaner Dunkel clone next! I'd rather have a few of LOTS of things than 50 of the same thing for 3 weeks.
So to all you big boy 5-Gallon + brewers out there, don't be so quick to hate on us 1-Gallon brewers. While eventually we'll graduate to your status, in the meantime, we're totally feeling what we've got going right now, and it's just as enjoyable for us, as it is for you. :rockin:
*Disclaimer*
This thread is not meant to pick a fight or evoke negativity. It is simply in jest, although, steeped in believed truths
I did not read every single page in this thread, so perhaps this has been brought up: simply scaling down by dividing by 1/5 does not exactly work unless you also scale down your system. Many 1-gallon brewers do the BIAB method, and as you should know, sparging is not as efficient. As a result, more grain is needed, roughly 1/3 more of the amount that has been scaled down. So, if you used ten pounds of grain for a 5 gallon batch, scaling down (by 1/5), then adding 1/3, would require roughly 2.66 pounds for the one gallon batch...not 2 pounds.If it's a 5 gallon recipe, just divide the recipe by 5....Beer recipes are scalable. a 1 gallon recipe is 1/5 the ingredients of a 5 gallon batch, a 2.5 gallon batch is half the ingredients of a 5 gallon batch....
One gallon jugs are popular with wine makers, and have been for some time. One gallon to a home wine maker is the equivalent of 5 gallons to the homebrewer. I have noticed 3 gallon carboys becoming more popular...or at least in more stores. Then again, I never looked for one prior to a few years ago, so perhaps there were always there and I never noticed?Small batching must be getting more and more popular as my latest visit to Morebeer had a nice display of one gallon jugs, 3 gallon jugs and mini kegs! Good sign!!
I use the exact same method and bottling bucket that I would use for a 5+ gallon batch.Do all you 1-gallon brewers use pretty much the same method for bottling? bottling bucket with spigot? Do you use a different vessel rather than the typical 5-6gallon bottling buckets that are out there?
also, for all-grain brewers..any problems with holding mash temps for a long enough period of time?
As a winemaker I would say, not really. A gallon of wine usually only yields 4 bottles. Sometimes 5 if it's a little over a gallon batch and you're very careful about wastage....One gallon jugs are popular with wine makers, and have been for some time. One gallon to a home wine maker is the equivalent of 5 gallons to the homebrewer...
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