eyedoctodd
Well-Known Member
Ok, I know I'm probably not the first to do this, but i thought I'd share my system for heating my strike water while I sleep. There are calculators online that will let you figure out how long the water takes to heat, but I found I still needed to do some math in converting units, etc, then I ALSO had to count back from when I wanted to mash in. So I whipped up a spreadsheet to let me know when to set my timer for.
First, get yourself this bucket heater.
It's also available at Amazon, but right now the price is higher.
There are more powerful units which can heat the water faster, but then you have to worry about the amperage of your breakers and any extension cords you're using, not to mention the timer below. This one is cheap, safe, and does the job while playing nicely with standard circuits and cords.
Second, grab this Intermatic DT-620 Timer.
It's also available from Amazon.
Finally, grab my spreadsheet file and calculate what time to set your timer to kick on. It is pretty self-explanatory, except for the thermal loss cell. In real life, while you're heating your strike water, you're also losing some heat due to the imperfect insulation of the vessel. This box gives you the chance to use an adjustment factor if you are finding you're not quite at target temp at the expected mash-in time. (Note there are imperial and metric sheets)
{example: if you start with 45F water and want 170F, but you're finding the heater only got you to 160F; that means instead of a rise of 125F, you got a rise of 115F. 125/115 = 1.086. I would punch in 1.086 to adjust for the future if I did nothing different to insulate the vessel.}
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4y1a_lwt2yVV9NX1ZPMmdOVm8/edit
is the location of the file in case the link above does not work.
It's a good idea to plug all this into a GFCI outlet or an external GFCI adapter. Check any cords etc that you use to be rated for 120V, 1000W, at least 8.33A (most household circuits are 15A so you're golden as long as you don't try to power this through a crappy thin extension cord.) As always, read all warning labels and don't run that heater dry!!
Enjoy! I hope others find this useful, I have saved a ton of time crushing my grains the night before and having my strike water heat while I sleep. Now I wake and mash and SWMBO is happier about shorter brew days.
Not to mention I'm saving a ton of propane. The electricity for me to heat 12 gallons of water (some of it I save for my sparge) costs about 40-50 cents! Normally that would have my Top Tier burner running for a good 45 minutes minimum!! Cheers
Todd
First, get yourself this bucket heater.
It's also available at Amazon, but right now the price is higher.
There are more powerful units which can heat the water faster, but then you have to worry about the amperage of your breakers and any extension cords you're using, not to mention the timer below. This one is cheap, safe, and does the job while playing nicely with standard circuits and cords.
Second, grab this Intermatic DT-620 Timer.
It's also available from Amazon.
Finally, grab my spreadsheet file and calculate what time to set your timer to kick on. It is pretty self-explanatory, except for the thermal loss cell. In real life, while you're heating your strike water, you're also losing some heat due to the imperfect insulation of the vessel. This box gives you the chance to use an adjustment factor if you are finding you're not quite at target temp at the expected mash-in time. (Note there are imperial and metric sheets)
{example: if you start with 45F water and want 170F, but you're finding the heater only got you to 160F; that means instead of a rise of 125F, you got a rise of 115F. 125/115 = 1.086. I would punch in 1.086 to adjust for the future if I did nothing different to insulate the vessel.}
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4y1a_lwt2yVV9NX1ZPMmdOVm8/edit
is the location of the file in case the link above does not work.
It's a good idea to plug all this into a GFCI outlet or an external GFCI adapter. Check any cords etc that you use to be rated for 120V, 1000W, at least 8.33A (most household circuits are 15A so you're golden as long as you don't try to power this through a crappy thin extension cord.) As always, read all warning labels and don't run that heater dry!!
Enjoy! I hope others find this useful, I have saved a ton of time crushing my grains the night before and having my strike water heat while I sleep. Now I wake and mash and SWMBO is happier about shorter brew days.
Not to mention I'm saving a ton of propane. The electricity for me to heat 12 gallons of water (some of it I save for my sparge) costs about 40-50 cents! Normally that would have my Top Tier burner running for a good 45 minutes minimum!! Cheers
Todd
Last edited by a moderator: