bellmtbbq
Well-Known Member
Has anyone ever used Munich in an American pale/brown ale? I have a pound laying around that I need to use
bellmtbbq said:Has anyone ever used Munich in an American pale/brown ale? I have a pound laying around that I need to use
Has anyone ever used Munich in an American pale/brown ale? I have a pound laying around that I need to use
Doing my first 1 gal experimental batch this week. Used the recipe converter on beersmith to make it smaller. I've only ever used yeast smack packs and the converter tells me to use Two grams of dry yeast. Two questions. Does that sound like enough? And do I just drop the dry yeast in or should I hydrate it first?
Cheers!
How do you other 1-gallon folks deal with liquid yeast? I'd like to expand my one-gallon horizons beyond what I can do with dry yeast.
Specifically, I'm wondering about Wyeast smackpacks. Do you pitch the whole thing? Do you save some? If so, how?
Any info is greatly appreciated!
Leadgolem said:A simultaneous batch I was running was cranberry wine. Just ocean spray cranberry juice with some sugar to up the gravity. Nicely smooth, and a nice cranberry flavor. Pleasantly surprised this time. I expected this to go horribly sour with the sugar fermented out.
Meh, it finished at 10.4% abv. I've made way stronger stuff.Dude... That sounds like hooch! Lol
BorealBrewer said:How do you other 1-gallon folks deal with liquid yeast? I'd like to expand my one-gallon horizons beyond what I can do with dry yeast.
Specifically, I'm wondering about Wyeast smackpacks. Do you pitch the whole thing? Do you save some? If so, how?
Any info is greatly appreciated!
How do you other 1-gallon folks deal with liquid yeast? I'd like to expand my one-gallon horizons beyond what I can do with dry yeast.
Specifically, I'm wondering about Wyeast smackpacks. Do you pitch the whole thing? Do you save some? If so, how?
Any info is greatly appreciated!
Hoping to do this Saturday as my first BIAB 1.5 gallon batch. New to the BIAB but giving it a try. I am doing the Centennial Blonde recipe from here on the forums. Ive scaled it down to 1.5 gallons with beer tools online. Now i just need to get my water figured out. I hope i figured this right.
target size 1.5 gal
grains 2.4lbs
grain absorb 1.25 qt per pound
that gives me close to 3 qts for my grains
total now is 2.25
then my boil would be 3 gallons to account for boil lose
Is that right? Did it make sense? Any pointers on that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
How do you other 1-gallon folks deal with liquid yeast? I'd like to expand my one-gallon horizons beyond what I can do with dry yeast.
Specifically, I'm wondering about Wyeast smackpacks. Do you pitch the whole thing? Do you save some? If so, how?
Any info is greatly appreciated!
I did not aerate after the boil. Used half a pack of yeast.
dadshomebrewing said:I've been gone for a while... Have you got any action yet in the fermenter?
dadshomebrewing said:Btw... Hi guys, I get to stay home for a few days... Hoping to get a brew day in the weekend.
Also have three batches in fermenters ready to bottle, and two batches ready to open.
And no football I care about to watch on tv.
dadshomebrewing said:One thing... I got a copy of ray Daniels book called Designing Great Beers for Christmas. Was reading it on airplanes, in airports, and such.
It's a GREAT book, if you are interested in the science of home brewing, and the history of the styles.
Doesn't spend a single minute on technique, or equipment, or such. For that you need something else, like Palmer.
But what a great book for learning all the chemistry and math that goes into selecting ingredients and building your recipes, or in my case understanding recipes from other sources.
Very recommended.
I did aerate before I pitched the yeast, but did not aerate after I added the boiled/cooled water on the third day after pitching the yeast.You need to aerate by shaking the snot out of your wort before pitching the yeast.
One thing... I got a copy of ray Daniels book called Designing Great Beers for Christmas. Was reading it on airplanes, in airports, and such.
It's a GREAT book, if you are interested in the science of home brewing, and the history of the styles.
Doesn't spend a single minute on technique, or equipment, or such. For that you need something else, like Palmer.
But what a great book for learning all the chemistry and math that goes into selecting ingredients and building your recipes, or in my case understanding recipes from other sources.
Very recommended.
I did aerate before I pitched the yeast, but did not aerate after I added the boiled/cooled water on the third day after pitching the yeast.
This coming Monday marks the two week mark from pitching the yeast. Should I go ahead and bottle on that day? I do not have a hydrometer.
Wooohooo. I have a marathon brew scheduled for Saturday. 3 batches. ...maybe even 4
Wooohooo. I have a marathon brew scheduled for Saturday. 3 batches. ...maybe even 4
I can do that. Thanks.If you have the patience, I'd wait at least another week. Let the yeast finish up their job. I've wanted 4 to 5 weeks before bottling and I have some of the cleanest, clearest beers. :rockin: Even though, I have a busy life so waiting is easy for me.
Damn Cheese, how do you clean your equipment so fast in between double, and even triple, batch days?
Do you just spray your e-rig out with a hose?
cheesecake said:Wooohooo. I have a marathon brew scheduled for Saturday. 3 batches. ...maybe even 4
BGBC said:Hi All, I started brewing 5 gallon batches with a friend a few months ago, but we keep all the gear at his place (limited storage in my apt). Between that and the hassle of coordinating our schedules for brew days, it's seriously cramping my new found addiction. I've been making my way through this thread for about a week now (up to page 100 now) and it's been really helpful in planning my own small batch setup, first recipes, etc.
I already picked up what will become my bottling bucket from a local bakery (the lid provided doesn't seal at all ), have a lead on some other empties for primaries, and am pulling together the list of other small stuff I'll need to order (airlocks, siphon, etc).
Anyway, one question for now - I'm planning on simple grain bills for my first few brews (American Wheat, MO SMaSH, etc), but for future brews, are there sites that sell grains in increments < 1lb? I've used NB, but they only offer 1lb or 50lbs. I know the LHBS is an option, but the closest one is about an hour away.
Thanks for all of this consolidated info and I'll check back in once I'm caught up on the thread
Thanks for following up. I have wee little bubbles that rise to the surface and yeast particles moving about a little. No action in the airlock. This coming Monday will be the two week mark.
dadshomebrewing said:I would leave it until at least three weeks and hope for the best.
If you have, or can get, a hydrometer it would be good to use it to see if you are anywhere close to your target fg, and monitor it.
dadshomebrewing said:I would leave it until at least three weeks and hope for the best.
If you have, or can get, a hydrometer it would be good to use it to see if you are anywhere close to your target fg, and monitor it.
bellmtbbq said:That's good advice. I bottle most of my one gallon batches after seven to fourteen days, especially hoppier beers, but that's me
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