I was thinking about putting a stainless float switch in the HLT to protect the heating element. Would those work/survive the boil kettle too? Wondering if the turbulence could be a factor. Anybody done this?
I've go one in mine and so far so good, but only 1 batch, brewing next week so I'll update after that if there is any change. I also mounted a din rail mount 12v transformer on the inside of my control panel to power the switch. I have one in my HLT and one in my BK, both are wired to 12v red buzzers to go off when my water level is about 2 gallons from exposing the element.
Since I was only half way through building mine and decided I was going to build another one that made things a little cleaner inside, I'll have to steal your idea for my next build, thank you!
I have one of these stainless float switched in my HLT and BK, So far I have had no issues with them.
I put a female 1/4 headphone jack into my control panel that interups the signal to my SSR, and wired a male adapter to the switch.
The switch took about 2 weeks to get here from china.
For those of you that have done this, do you have it wired such that the element is totally dependent on the float switch? Or do you have the float wired into a selector switch that allows you to give element control to the float, or bypass yourself to control element power on/off?
I have one of the same ebay switches sitting in my "pile of things-to-be", so any tid-bits on how you incorporated it into the world of wiring would be appreciated!
my plan is to put it between the PID and the SSR, without any way to defeat.
Yeah, this definitely seems like the most straight forward approach. I use hop bags though and am worried about a bag snagging onto the switch and tricking the system. I suppose if you had some kind of buzzer or light indicator to let you know the float switch was triggered you could remedy it pretty easily.
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