bach
Active Member
I am attaching the pictures of the connector I used:
So now that my 20l will be here soon I am pondering the logistics of brewing in my apartment. I will need to vent the steam somehow from the boil off. I have a dryer vent that goes through the wall about 15 feet to the outside from the brew room and I also have a small basement slider window on the other side of the room away from the 220 line.
My questions are
A. If I vent through the dryer vent will the condensation build up into some sort of sticky mess inside of it.
B. if i am going to vent to the other window I will need an extension cord to make it over there. What should I use to extend the reach of the current electric cord? A welding cord? If I had a Lon enough cord I could potentially brew outside on really nice days.
The last 2 beers I made with the Braumeister were an Old Bavarian Weissbier and another version of a Kelheim Weissbier. Both beers have been in the bottle for over a month. I use Speise collected post chilling to carbonate most of the beers I make or a Speise/Sugar combo for non-German style beers.
Currently I am less concerned with beer color and haze, and am happy to be making high quality, delicious beer. The OBW really suprised me, initially it was a bit more malty than I like, but has balanced out nicely. The Kelheim is almost my ideal Hefe, it has a good balance between clove, banana, light malt and is highly carbonated. Both still need some tweaking though.
I am still using my Victoria (Corona) mill but am looking to get a Barley Crusher soon. The Victoria was good enough for my batch sparging days, where a fine crush with quite a bit of flour worked. I have to double or triple crush with it if I want it coarse, and the Braumeister works best with a coarse crush.
I noticed a bit of channeling on my last Kelheim Weissbier brew near the end of conversion, so paused the program and stirred the mash. I usually use rice hulls (didn't this time) but would prefer not to unless really necessary.
With simpler mash schedules and minimal data logging my brewdays are down to 6 hours, but the weather here in Toronto has been so nice I haven't been able to brew as much as I like. I am selfishly hoping for a couple of nasty snowfalls so that I can replenish the pipeline.
FiveKaiBrewing said:instead of a barley crusher i would go with the new rebel brewing mill looks awsome with a hopper and everything for i think its 175.00. i have a crankanstein 3D stainless and it works well but for the money go wit hthe rebel its cheaper and everyone seems to like it. its a 2 roller by the way.
if there is another braumeister/beersmith user out there that can help me out with this it will be much appreciated. I own the 50l setup and Í also got the short malt pipe. Thank you very much in advance!
I too have the 50l unit with the shortened malt pipe. I use beersmith and am also trying to nail down the parameters. As I've only done 3 brews to date on it I'm still figuring it out. I haven't quite figured out stuff such as boil off rate etc. I have created 2 profiles:
- 50l brew
- 20l brew
To date i have only made 20l batches. I have used the parameters supplied by other users for the 20l model in my 20l profile. The only thing i changed was the 'Mash Tun Weight' which I set to 22kg. I will have to figure it out more from that.
Anybody else figured out beersmith parameters for the shortened malt pipe in the 50l model?
What up buddy i started this thread a while ago so i guess i was one of the first guys with this machine. just buy a voltage converter man. so easy and you can brew anywhere you want.
as far as the condensation question i dont think it will be a sticky mess since when you boil you are loosing water while all sugars and stuff just stay in the wort. it should just be steam sugar wont evaporate.
good luck on your brewing this machine is really great.
Yes it is SS9007 12-8
The BM side of the nipple is the 3/4" BSPP/ISO (british standard pipe parallel) and the ball valve side is the 1/2" NPT
My reason was to eliminate any parts, which would be restricting the
flow, since I recirculate and whirlpool.
It works great.
It is pricey - I paid $65 at local distributor
Here are some photos of my setup, some ideas stolen from here, some are my own. Enjoy, please advise if you have trouble viewing. I gave up on trying to embed the URLs here in this post so here's the link:
https://picasaweb.google.com/bradfo...authkey=Gv1sRgCJiJpPriguiE6gE&feat=directlink
tektonjp said:Question on the spigot mod. Is that a 1/2" ball valve? thanks.
Do you guys stir wort after pumps shut off before the boil?
Is it possible to run a breumeister off a 110 to 220 Converter?. I have no access to 220 where I live.
Thanks.
I would strongly recommend against it for a couple of reasons.
First, as is stated in the product descriptions which you linked "Caution:
(1) This voltage converter may not work properly [...] some items with heating element such as coffeemakers, espresso/capuccino makers, percolators, heating pads, toasters, toaster ovens, rice cookers, tea kettles, hot plates, cloth irons, steamers etc."
...which is exactly what the braumeister is, a large hot plate essentially. So basically these would not be guaranteed to work in the first place.
Furthermore, you would need to buy a unit that is at LEAST 2000W, since that is the power requirement of just the heating element. If they can be used continuously at 80% you are looking at needing a 3000W supply. The money you spend on this unit plus the extra power you would be using might help offset the cost of hiring an electrician to add a 220v circuit and outlet to your residence.
No dryer in your place? No way to perhaps make an extension cord?
rawlus said:Member FiveKaiBrewing here has been successfully using a 5000w voltage converter. It may be worth asking him about his experiences.
Received my braumeister today. Still waiting on the insulation jacket and shorter maltpipe. Had my electrician buddy wire up my basement for it and we rewired the plug. I'll post some photos shortly, but I have a couple of questions:
1. I'm thinking about doing some mods... if I do the diptube mod, I want to be able to whirlpool the wort so I'm getting all the trub in the center. The copper tube from previous posts looked like it had some soldering or welding done to it. I'm not a plumber and I don't think I even have the tools to cut copper. Am I SOL on that particular mod?
2. For the whirlpool, it seems like I'd be better off buying a march pump and recirculating back into the kettle along the side wall to get any sort of decent whirlpool. Nobody has been able to achieve a good whirlpool using The Braumeister's built in pump, by modding the pump inlet by angling it off with a copper tube, right?
Soviet said:Comon, there's gotta be SOMEONE that whirlpools in the braumeister via recirculation...
rlhvegas said:I have a 50' copper immersion chiller that does great in the BM. I set the BM to manuel pump mode to circulate around the coiled copper and the temp drops very quickly. I go from boiling to pitching temp in 15 minutes.
beradthefish said:Who has a 20l and wants a 50l? I may be open to negotiating a trade. I have the short malt pipe, the jacket, and the copper lid. I will probably never use the full capacity, haven't so far. You can see my machine in previous posts.
What's the total capacity on the 20L unit, 25L? Can you elaborate on the process?
I am still tweaking the process, but it looks something like this:
An additional vessel or 2 is required for the recirculation and for half of the boil volume. A march pump would be handy, but transferring the liquids manually is possible.
Filled Braumeister with 21.5L 2 Stage Filtered water.
Preheated (in the kettle) 6.93gl (26L) for mashing at conversion temps.
Filled Braumeister with Grain, Begin Mash-In.
Added another 3L H2O to the Braumeister, 24.5L total
Begin Phase 1.
Start recirculation of the full volume (Including that from the kettle). Drain out the spigot to vessel, pump back up into the Braumeister.
Once Conversion is done, split the batch between kettle and Braumeister.
Complete the mash (Mash-out), then proceed with the boil splitting the hops between the 2 vessels.
Once boil is done recombine the 2 worts into the Braumeister and cool.
Is there a way to program the unit to go to a strike temperature before the grain is added (which would usually be ~15 degrees higher or so) so that it evens out at the correct temperature?
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