wendelgee2
Well-Known Member
every book you read says you MUST chill quickly.
Because if you're leaving the wort exposed to air when it's nice and toasty warm for too long, it's more likely to get infected.
every book you read says you MUST chill quickly.
Because if you're leaving the wort exposed to air when it's nice and toasty warm for too long, it's more likely to get infected.
I'm sure this has been mentioned somewhere, but I'd rather not shift through 80 pgs to find it. So if someone can be so kind...after I'm done boiling my wort, can I just put the lid on it and let it cool over night or at least down to 100 or so before dumping into carboy? I can't think of any other way!
I am drinking my first No Chill brew now. Very good brew. I only did a 5g batch to test my recipe and hop additions I changed for NC.
When the weather permits, I am going to do a little experiment and do a 10g batch and drain off 5g in a cube then chill the other 5g with an immersion chiller then compare the 2. Right now I am sold on No Chill. My first try was great. I did a IPA and changed my hop schedule to omit late addition hops and did a FWH and all is good. I have a No Chill Dunkleweizen ready to keg nowas well as another 10g of IIPA fermenting.
Just remember, they won't be the same beer -- the no chill will have a different hop profile then the chilled one
I'm sure this has been mentioned somewhere, but I'd rather not shift through 80 pgs to find it. So if someone can be so kind...after I'm done boiling my wort, can I just put the lid on it and let it cool over night or at least down to 100 or so before dumping into carboy? I can't think of any other way!
Just remember, they won't be the same beer -- the no chill will have a different hop profile then the chilled one
Anybody aware of a container that could be used for no chill that is around the 3 gallon size? I searched on the US Plastic site and didn't see any. I like to try some weird beers and usually do them in small batches. I'd like to try them no chill but I need a suitable container. I've got the winpaks for my regular batches.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Ron
Agree. I keep surprising myself by hitting 85% or better every time I BIABWAS (with a sparge.) I think I'm just gonna spend the extra buck for another 1.5 lbs of base malt and forget the sparge.I did 2 five gallon batches. I "plugged" in a 65% efficiency and it came out at low 80's (I'll calc later.) It certainly was easier. Note to self: Sparging is overrated!
It usually takes 24 hours for my wort to get to pitching temp.I'm a little surprised how long it takes 5 gallons to drop in temp! Maybe tonight I can pitch.
I definitely don't have the hops sched figured out yet so let me know if you get it!I'll bet I've screwed up the hopping schedule . . . maybe a delicious mistake. Anyway, I like it.
So.... I still no chill and I like it a lot. But I don't find my 'no-chill' needs being met anymore in this thread. Are any of the other brewing boards you know of having active discussions on this topic?
N_G
High,
The problem with your wort sitting around for hours on end to cool down to pitching temp, is that in exact that time, the wort is most vulnerable for any kind of bacterial infection.
There is no healthy yeast to take over a high sugar content liquid.
And at those warm temps it is an ideal breeding ground for all sorts of unwanted critters.
Without extreme sanitation the chance of spoilage is high.
Plus the effect of a cold break to settle out free floating proteins is not given.
Now if there are people wanting to reinvent the wheel by using unorthodox brewing practices, let´ém go ahead.
If it works for them, fine and dandy.
I myself use a copper coil wort chiller that gets dumped into the kettle 10min prior to flame-out to santise it.
My so careful produced wort and the hops added during the boil is just too valuable to take a chance upon spoiling it.
Prost
swillmaker
What "needs" might those be?
I want to know more about the hop schedules. The 20 minute offset works for me for bittering and "20 minute" flavor additions. But I'd like to know more about First Wort Hopping for the later (<5 minute) additions. The reason I ask is this: The aroma of a 5 minute addition and the aroma from dry hopping are two different things and I'd like to get that 5 minute addition essence back into the brew and supposedly FWH is one way to go about it. Anyone have any experience FWH'ing a no chill for a finer aroma?
So far Ive done 10 no chill batches, but I have been using a 3L pale ale malt for the base. Has anyone tried this with 2L continental pilsener malt as a base malt?
High,
The problem with your wort sitting around for hours on end to cool down to pitching temp, is that in exact that time, the wort is most vulnerable for any kind of bacterial infection.
There is no healthy yeast to take over a high sugar content liquid.
And at those warm temps it is an ideal breeding ground for all sorts of unwanted critters.
Without extreme sanitation the chance of spoilage is high.
Plus the effect of a cold break to settle out free floating proteins is not given.
Now if there are people wanting to reinvent the wheel by using unorthodox brewing practices, let´ém go ahead.
If it works for them, fine and dandy.
I myself use a copper coil wort chiller that gets dumped into the kettle 10min prior to flame-out to santise it.
My so careful produced wort and the hops added during the boil is just too valuable to take a chance upon spoiling it.
Prost
swillmaker
I've found myself migrating back towards the recipes' actual hop schedules vs. modified ones but additions at flameout and dry hopping are sufficient for hop aroma as far as I'm concerned. I guess what I've personally noticed is that no chill does monkey the hop utilization a bit (which is especially evident when brewing clone recipes) but the adjustments seem to do more harm than good for what I'm expecting vs. what I get. YMMV
The last three beers I brewed were "no chills". The last two I just killed the flame and placed the cover on my kettle and left on the stove till the following morning. Brews turned out great. Tasty awesome beers. Friends & family have loved them.
However, all of these no chills were new recipes so I can't really speak to hop utilization differences. I've been leaving the hops right in the kettle till I'm ready to ferment and then transfer the wort to my bucket and straining out the hops.
A friend and I are going to parallel brew the Stone Levitation clone from the CYBI show. We will use the exact same recipe only he'll immersion chill and I'll "no chill".
What is the best estimation of how I should treat hops and hopping schedule for this test?
Should I remove the hops after the boil and not let them sit in the cooling beer for 16-18 hours?
Thanks.
Has anyone had a 6 gallon Winpak deform or hold its semi collapsed shape from the cooling process? I just kegged a beer I made not too long ago and the Winpak has a slight indent where it sucked in. Doesn't look like melting, just curious if this has happened to anyone else.
Has anyone had a 6 gallon Winpak deform or hold its semi collapsed shape from the cooling process? I just kegged a beer I made not too long ago and the Winpak has a slight indent where it sucked in. Doesn't look like melting, just curious if this has happened to anyone else.
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