ScubaSteve
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 21, 2007
- Messages
- 3,673
- Reaction score
- 91
Okay Guys-
This post is half brewing process, half equipment. But we all like our gear, so here goes!
This is my conceptualization of a single vessel brewery, from bottom to top:
1) Use one large vessel, like a keggle or 20 gal Blingmann. You could go with a nicer pot, since you'll only need one :rockin:
2) False bottom with 1/2" diptube, or bottom valve.
3) 5500W ULD element through the side, 1" above the false bottom
4) A stainless stock pot basket lined with SS screen, almost as big as the keggle, but still able to be removed/inserted. Small legs on bottom to keep it from bending horizontal heating element.
5) A hand crank or similar mechanical device that can haul the basket out and keep it suspended.
6) A drop in sprayball for CIP
7) On the outside, you have:
A) A sight gauge
B) Short probe thermometer (to avoid hitting basket)
C) RIMS heat exchanger for maintaining temp/step mashing while recircing for clarity. You could also heat sparge water with this if so desired.
D) A Little Giant 3-MD-HC Mag Drive Pump
E) A BCS-460 to control the burners and pump
This would be a NO CHILL, NO SPARGE, ALL ELECTRIC, Brew-In-A-Basket Rig.
It will have enough volume to do 10 Gallon and high gravity batches, sparging can still be done if desired.
Process:
1) Follow Brew in a Bag procedures but with the basket. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-stovetop-all-grain-brewing-pics-90132/ Once mash is done, dump the basket out and then use it for hops. You can let your hops float free and haul them all out at the end!
2) Adjust hop additions for No-Chill brewing techniques: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/exploring-no-chill-brewing-117111/ (later hop additions)
3) Drain hot, unchilled wort to a sanitized corny or sanke and take some wort for a Real Wort Starter (RWS)
4) Drop in CIP spray ball and recirc hot PBW. There should be very little trub due to the screened basket.
5) Pressurize corny or sanke to prevent vacuum in the vessel when cooling
6) Once cool (~24-48 hrs), pitch starter and use Fermcap
7) Once fermentation is about 75% complete, attach spunding valve and follow "Closed-System-Pressurized-Fermentation" techniques: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/closed-system-pressurized-fermentation-technique-44344/
Sound like a plan?
This post is half brewing process, half equipment. But we all like our gear, so here goes!
This is my conceptualization of a single vessel brewery, from bottom to top:
1) Use one large vessel, like a keggle or 20 gal Blingmann. You could go with a nicer pot, since you'll only need one :rockin:
2) False bottom with 1/2" diptube, or bottom valve.
3) 5500W ULD element through the side, 1" above the false bottom
4) A stainless stock pot basket lined with SS screen, almost as big as the keggle, but still able to be removed/inserted. Small legs on bottom to keep it from bending horizontal heating element.
5) A hand crank or similar mechanical device that can haul the basket out and keep it suspended.
6) A drop in sprayball for CIP
7) On the outside, you have:
A) A sight gauge
B) Short probe thermometer (to avoid hitting basket)
C) RIMS heat exchanger for maintaining temp/step mashing while recircing for clarity. You could also heat sparge water with this if so desired.
D) A Little Giant 3-MD-HC Mag Drive Pump
E) A BCS-460 to control the burners and pump
This would be a NO CHILL, NO SPARGE, ALL ELECTRIC, Brew-In-A-Basket Rig.
It will have enough volume to do 10 Gallon and high gravity batches, sparging can still be done if desired.
Process:
1) Follow Brew in a Bag procedures but with the basket. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-stovetop-all-grain-brewing-pics-90132/ Once mash is done, dump the basket out and then use it for hops. You can let your hops float free and haul them all out at the end!
2) Adjust hop additions for No-Chill brewing techniques: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/exploring-no-chill-brewing-117111/ (later hop additions)
3) Drain hot, unchilled wort to a sanitized corny or sanke and take some wort for a Real Wort Starter (RWS)
4) Drop in CIP spray ball and recirc hot PBW. There should be very little trub due to the screened basket.
5) Pressurize corny or sanke to prevent vacuum in the vessel when cooling
6) Once cool (~24-48 hrs), pitch starter and use Fermcap
7) Once fermentation is about 75% complete, attach spunding valve and follow "Closed-System-Pressurized-Fermentation" techniques: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/closed-system-pressurized-fermentation-technique-44344/
Sound like a plan?