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Not sure about adding Munich to obtain your color, since it doesn't exist in the original recipe... Munich malt is designed for it's flavor characteristics, not it's color-dropping abilities. It's slightly darker than a base 2-row/pale but has lower diastatic power and using it in large amounts...

Here's the general scoop: 1lb of base grain = .6lbs of DME OR .75lbs of LME @ ~70% efficiency. Use that to convert all your base extract to base grain. Since you're using "amber" and "dark" extracts, adjust the dark crystals/roasted malts to match the color profile. It may take a run or two to...

That's a bummer. Have any extra extract lying around? I'd boil some up for a few minutes and add it in to get closer to your target.

The only "truth" that exists in fermentation is things are gonna rot, whether you like it or not. As brewers we design our methods around the ability to control that rot to our personal liking - producing drinkable beer. Once we provide that nutrient rich medium for growth nature takes control...

Like I said, just kegged up a batch and it isn't conditioned by any means so ill let you know what I think when it's ready. My first impression wasn't BO-like at all, just like a citrusy and white wine-like aroma mixed with a warm earthiness. Got zero pine, but I guess a tiny bit if dank...which...

Did a single hop PA with NS a couple weeks ago and it's conditioning in the keg. Had about a gallon of leftover beer in the fermenter so I filled up a jug and am drinking it as I type...this hop is totally unique...the beer is green and somewhat un-carbonated but the viney-ness and surreal...

Dough balls in full-volume BIAB are rarely a problem unless the grain bill is huge. The reason is because the water/grain ratio is so thin that there is always enough water to help break up the bits. When you're mashing 15lbs of grain into nearly 7.5g of water it's a lot soupier and easier to...

I had the same problem when I was testing out a recipe for a beer to be served at my wedding...turned out my mashing thermometer was 10 degrees too high between 140-160 and since the recipe called for some honey, that brought my FG down even further (around 1.002). I can't stress how important...

The great thing about a full-volume BIAB is that the water/grain ratio is so thin that even if you don't sparge there is enough water in the kettle to shake those sugars off efficiently during the mash-out, which should be stirred up to temp at all times. You can even see and feel the solution...

All of these suggestions are good and will work, but in my opinion, go for a 10-15 gallon pot and do full volume BIAB. In an apartment setting space and "cleaning space" is paramount: You don't have the space to set up a mash tun or clean multiple vessels (think of a small bathtub as the mess...

I too have been having problems with low FG since moving to all grain. The last two batches were nearly the same and both ended at 1.002 with nice flavor but zero body...I've since excluded all simple sugars and honey from my "regular beer" recipes in fear of turning more sessionable pints into...

Totally! I usually don't fuss too much about it, but as this beer is for my wedding I got a bit concerned. No worries though, there's still time to brew up a couple more batches before June if these are lacking. Gonna drink em anyway!

Thanks again for the feedback! All great suggestions. Interesting about the software calculations...figured something may not have been accounted for in projected FG. Gotta kick the two kegs in the kegerator now and pop these batches in to carbonate. Hopefully I won't end up with cold...

The hydrometer readings were both taken at ~68 degrees after chilling and before kegging. Mash temps were between 150-153 using a thermometer that I've used before that measures boiling water at 212, and I BIAB so I mashed out both batches at 170 degrees for 10 minutes after the hour long mash...

Hey all. Need some help! Brewed up two batches of a summer ale for my wedding and seem to have overshot the FG by a LOT and don't know why. Just kegged and took a reading on the second batch tonight and it ended the same as the first, with a FG of 1.002...Way below the 1.011 that iBrewmaster...

Kegged this up today. The color is spot on, as well as the haze from the wheat. The hydro sample tasted very light with absolutely no off flavors that I could perceive, but...it actually fermented all the way down to 1.002! iBrewmaster saw it a full 10 points above that...think something may...

Frequency varies. My first couple kegs were polished off in less than a week each, but since I started brewing weekly I have way more beer than I can go through...it's gotten to the point where I don't have enough fermentation vessels to keep up, much less cornies. Been sans a brew day for two...

Ahhhh! Yes, they certainly could. I correct my statement to "useless to single vessel BIAB brewers"!

UPDATE on the above Columbia Sinks 1500 watt heating element: Just got off the phone with a representative from Columbia Sinks and ALL the elements they sell have an auto-cutoff at 200 degrees, which would make them useless for brewing. Since I posted the link I thought everyone should know!

I know the breaker is 20 amps, but the outlet is 15 and has a few thick layers of paint caked on it so I'm relictant to even pry it off the wall to check. I think I'm better off going 1500 watts. Makes me nervous to push the line any more than I have to, plus its a rental. If I go ahead and...