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I'm not seeing anything offensive in BeerdTraveler's posts... I don't mind an occasional zombie thread, even my own. Anyway - as far as timer goes, I personally do not see a benefit in having one built-in - I just use my kitchen stove timer for mash times/boil/hop additions. If you really want...

Bump...

Still available - will ship at buyer's expense...

I have a Neslab RTE-4 lab circulator for sale. This unit does not chill (compressor relay just clicks repeatedly), but the heater and circulator pump are working fine. It has a 1 gallon temperature controlled (up to 100C/212F) reservoir with a pump that circulates the heated liquid (water or...

Would you do $45 shipped for the three twists?

I used Kal's method (The Electric Brewery) - the only difference is that I used much cheaper single-gang boxes that I waterproofed with silicone. You are correct that the elements need to be bent slightly to fit into the kettle. I just did it over the corner of a wooden bench before I installed...

As far as rust on the element faces - maybe some discoloration, but not any major rust. I wipe them dry after each brew session.

For cleaning, I fill it up with about 5 gallons of hot tap water and a scoop of PBW, then I recirculate for 15-20 min. While it's recirculating, I close and open all of the valves a few times, and scrub the pot and the elements with a dishwashing bristle brush (dollar store brand). I drain and...

Nope, no scorching at all. I do scrub the elements after each brew - they get coated in residue. If they are not cleaned, I can see this leading to scorching.

What he said. As an added benefit, Nestle jugs are PET, so you have a cheap 5-gallon carboy (whatever the deposit is).

Yes, 10 gallon batches are a bit tricky with this rig. Here's how I do it: I start with 11 gallons of water, get it up to mash temps, put the basket in, mash in, start recirculation. I throttle the pump (with a ball valve on the output) so that there's only a gentle flow over the grain bed -...

Nice build! Nope, that's all I did, and it's been working great. One thing I do differently now is I set the strike temperature to my target mash temp (i.e. if I'm mashing at 152F, that's what I set the on the PID from the get go); otherwise it seemed to overshoot my mash temp. Have fun with...

The Danish Lager one is still lagering; I was going to bottle it this weekend. It didn't attenuate as much (1.013 vs 1.010 with Chico), and the hydro sample was a bit maltier and smoother. Can't say that one is better than the other - have to reserve judgment until it's done. Can't beat having a...

Just brewed exactly that - split 10 gal of Helles wort between US-05 and Danish Lager yeasts. The Chico version was fermented at 66F, and came out quite good. It can actually pass for a lager now that it's been in the keezer "lagering" for 3 weeks. As long as you pitch enough 1056 (use a...

That's good to know, although I figured out the priming issue even with the "impeller on top" configuration. My problem with that pump was that it quit in the middle of two brews; once from overheating, and second time when the shaft seized. I've been using a Chugger for the last 3 brews, and...

2 SSRs - one per element.

I'm pretty much done with this pump - it left me stranded in the middle of a brew day twice, both times when recirculating boiling wort to sanitize my plate chiller, leaving me to gravity feed through the chiller. Took the pump apart, and the impeller shaft had seized - I got it cleaned up, put...

I have used and can recommend the knockout punch set from Harbor Freight - the 1/2" is perfect for valves/sight glasses and control panel buttons and switches, and the 1-1/4" one works just fine for the elements (it's a little big, but no issues with mounting or leaking). There are always...

That's weird - what temperature do you start your auto-tune? When I tune mine (had to do it a few times), I would set the temp to 160F, and start the auto-tune once it got around 140F. Have you talked to Auber?

This is a major problem - when the controller is on, the male prongs are hot. You NEVER, EVER, have live male prongs. Doesn't matter if it's twist-lock or not, this is a basic electric design principle and an accident waiting to happen. Only female plugs can be hot. I VERY HIGHLY recommend that...