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Looks like it’s been a few months and no replies, but did you make a decision? Curious what you went with and how it works out. I may be in the same situation.

This happened to me once. The starsan that was sucked back into my carboy kind of lingered on top, which was a good thing because I was able to rack the beer under it using an auto-siphon to my keg. I just stopped racking once I started sucking up the starsan. The beer turned out great.

I'm making a batch of skeeter pee and pitched my yeast last night. I just realized I forgot to stir after pitching. Should I stir when I get home tonight after work? That will be about 20 hours after pitching the yeast. When I checked this morning there was a good krausen on top already, so...

Thanks Ivan that part you linked to is exactly what I was trying to find, and the integrated shut off valve is a bonus! To clarify, I do have two tanks. In fact I overlooked that my other regulator had the exact connection I needed for the beer gun. So my solution was simply switch...

Can someone please help me understand what part I need to connect the CO2 tube to my CO2 regulator? Below is a picture of the tube provided in the accessory kit and the regulator I want to connect it to (see http://morebeer.com/products/dual-gauge-co2-regulator-taprite.html?site_id=5). The...

What's the recipe, did you hit your mash temps? What was the OG? How did you oxygenate? What temp did you ferment at? Perhaps there's no more fermentable sugars. No sense in pitching more yeast if there's nothing more to ferment.

I bottle too, just treat it like any other beer. 2-3 weeks at 70 degrees to carb, then refrigerate for a week or two to chill/clarify.

I was thinking I could continue the boil to raise the OG but I had completed my hop schedule already and thought that would make the beer too bitter and lose hop flavor/aroma. I have tested my boil off rate in the past and came out to 1.15 gal/hr. I've programmed this into BeerSmith. The day...

Yes full boil (2.5 gal batch). Took OG with Hydrometer at 72 degrees and compensated for temp using scale, also used refractometer to verify. Both came out at 1.032 pre-boil and 1.044 OG

This is basically where I got the recipe from, I'd suggest reading it. I broke it down to 2.5 gallons below. You should be able to take the 15 gallon and break it down to 3 gallon easily by dividing everything by 5...

I brewed a great pumpkin beer last year using 2.5 gallon BIAB batch last year. Getting ready to brew it again soon. The recipe I made called for first caramelizing the pumpkin in the oven first and adding it to the mash. Then a spiced tea was added to secondary. There was no problem...

I continue to have a problem with my BIAB process where my OG is coming out too low. I have been formulating my recipes with BeerSmith, and trying to hit my numbers. Last brew I hit my pre-boil gravity of 1.032 and missed my target OG by 8 points, got 1.044 when I BeerSmjth estimates 1.052...

After cooling my wort, I use a sanitized spoon to whirlpool the wort by stirring it rapidly (but not splashing) for a minute or so. Let it sit covered for about a half hour, and most of the sediment will be in a thick layer on the bottom of the kettle. I use an auto-siphon to transfer clear...

Glad you mentioned this because he tried telling me the same thing about co2 not being good at pushing heavier beers. Ironically I also had a leak issue (which I found out was my quick disconnect) so I think this is why the guy was trying to offer me so much advise. Although he did not...

Yeah I knew as soon as he told me about putting ice in his beer that I had no reason to listen to him. The poor guy is really nice and just trying to be helpful but he has no idea how wrong he is. I tried to explain how kegging homebrew works to him but he didn't want to hear it.

So I go into a local welding supply shop to get my 5lb co2 cylinder filled today, and I think the owner is giving me some bad advise. He said next time I come in he'll hook me up with some beer gas and tells me that nitro is the way to go. He said it will make my beer taste much better...

Sounds like you may need to build a stand similar to what this guy made: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f244/biab-keggle-build-411144/

I've heard that you don't want to shred the husks because that will cause tannins and make the beer taste astringent. A good crush would break open the husks and leave them in tact, not shredded. Do you notice this at all? I wonder how true this is, because I use a motorized corona mill...