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I am looking into creating a belt and pulley wheel system for my corona mill. Recently stepped up to 10 gallon batches & am finding crushing 20 + pounds of grain w/ the hand drill to be pretty annoying. Has anyone built a similar system? And if so what would you suggest for a good RPM range?

Does anyone have experience with CMC 2row and have compared it with other brands? Notice any big difference?

I just picked up a vile of the 810 to try a Cali Common lager. I haven't brewed yet, but what I have read about this strain is that it likes the higher (warmer) end of the spectum as far as lager yeasts are concerned. Anything sub 50 would seem too low based on what I've read. Have you had...

Wang

Could you show a before and after in a clear pint glass?

I was going to attend the Dec meeting at Sam Adams in JP. This will be my first meeting and wondering what to expect if anyone has been in the past. Does anyone one know when the grain is being delivered to Modern?

I'm sure those options are solid but this might be a more economical possibility if you have a regulator and one faucet. Only $16.

I would tend to think it would stop abruptly with the load of grain in the mill but then you'd have to clean it out after. My biggest fear would be wearing out the bearings in the mill with so much power and no load to keep things tight.

If you have the time (2 weeks) use 1/3 table sugar primer before you rack the beer into the keg. You will get a much better infusion of co2 and avoid that young beer taste when you're anxious to try it after your two days of force carbing. Not to mention you will save on gas. For this two...

Just curious...how will you implement this motor in the brewing process?

Any opinions on bazooka screen vs false bottom? I would guess pellets vs. Whole hops would make a big dif.

Went ahead with the tig weld. Now moving on to the ss ball valve and false bottom.

Save your yeast in bottles and organize by strain?

I am collecting from the primary, washing with boiled and cooled water, refrigerating and adding to starter 3 day pre brew at room temp.

Meant too not to....I'm a big fan of 1056, and I have harvested & washed the yeast from couple batches and noticed that after two times around my fementation is slower to act and less vigorus. I don't know if the cooler New England temps (65-69 inside) have any thing to do with it or a sign...

It's not rust (aluminum), but I do know this keg used to be filled with Guiness. My guess is that it is the old residue as it seems to clean up pretty easy in the few spots I've tried. $20 seems like an amazime price for a keggle. I'm pricing out a ball valve & bazooka screen for this and...

Here is the photo of the keg / pot

I just cut the top off an old aluminum benson schmidt 'fass' to make a 15 gal boil pot, but I'm now faced with the next task of sealing the holes where the old valves were. I don't know about having a tig welder do some magic, but was thinking about using quick steel. It is supposed to be good...

I have a spare keg that I want to fill but don't have the plumbing on my gas tank to preasurize more than one at a time. Has anyone used a sugar primer in a keg? Does it work just like bottling?