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So, basically the problem was the little yellow packet? I always use PBW for my brewery washes. I'm guess one of the active ingredient is probably the same as Oxyclean. Sodium Percarbonate. Here's a quote from another board (just researching unitanks...)

Bit late, but is it because of this: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0152/1071/files/Temp_Inversion.pdf?16799892967664542904 ? Spike recommend reversing the cooling flow for crashing. I guess that’s because they don’t have any coils at the top of the fermenter

In Australia, it's virtually impossible to get flowers for imported hops so we have to use pellets, but I'm getting sick of the sludge absorption. Hop blocker looks like the perfect solution. Anyone know what the ideal inlet height would be if you we're getting a new port put on a new kettle?

Pretty certain there are formal standards for "sieve analysis of crushed malt" by the various. Brewing bodies And a nice write up with pictures is in this newsletter http://homebrewers.ca/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/CABA_2006-1.pdf

With a reduced final volume and still a lower OG than you were expecting it indicates an efficiency problem. I would suggest 1) possibly a finer grind 2) 90 min mash 3) agitate the mash with a potato masher every 20 minutes. You can use this time to check the temperature, and possibly apply...

Litre • Degrees / Kilogram ie LDK much the same as PPPPG, except Metric. (sorry, just found this thread while googling, figured it deserved an answer ;))

I think people get held up on "efficiency", when really what they're trying for is "quality". Efficiency is basically the inverse of "losses" If you managed to get 100% of the available sugars in your malt into your fermenter, then you would have 100% brewhouse efficiency. This is not feasible...

If you're getting too much grain flour mud at the end of the boil your grind is probably too fine. Try increasing it just a tad.

I ran the numbers and made a chart ;) My discussion on this chart : http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=74&t=1481 Basically, I've graphed the Lautering Loss as a percentage vs Liquor to Grain Ratio for four True Absorption values. 1.2 L/KG = BIAB Heavy Squeeze 1.3 L/KG = BIAB Medium...

Full volume BIAB efficiency is directly dependent on the liquor:grain ratio in the mash. Not sure of the exact curve, but as your l:g ratio drops the mash gravity increase, and as the grain absorption remains constant (by weight) you lose relatively more sugars. This is basically a "lautering...

Then add as much as you can, right up to the rim. Not having the full volume will decrease your efficiency so use the extra water you didn't add to rinse/sparge your grain

+1 I use my Blichmann gloves for squeezing my biab bag and for everything else around the brewery. Even picked stuff off the bottom of a just off the boil 50L pot of wort with the gloves!

The issue is that the evaporation should be about the same, so doubling the total water will actually mean doubling the evaporation estimate, which is not right. So you should double the water less the evaporation, and then add water to counteract evaporation. Assuming you do full volume BIAB...

Post boil volume shouldn't affect efficiency. Efficiency is the percentage of extractable sugars in the grain that you ended up with in your kettle or fermenter. If your post boil volume is high it just means that the sugars are over diluted, not that there were any less. Efficiency in BIAB...

Many brewers allow their wort to sit for 10 mins after flameout for convection currents to stop, then they whirlpool, and allow to sit for another 10-20 mins for the trub cone to form. That's your 15-30 min delay. If you have a delay then that will affect late hops and that is part of recipe...

Well, except for SG readings 1.048

Its like a hybrid BIAB/RIMS actually RIMS with a removable inner mashtun? :)

I just boiled my bag for a while when I did an initial wet-test of my setup to work out boil-off rates etc

Investigate No Chill and brew now, ferment later ;)

I actually worked this out. It turns our Pure BIAB (ie no sparge), the efficiency is related to the liquor:grain ratio. The higher the ratio the higher the efficiency. Thus you want as much water in your mash as possible. The loss from the mash, ie the difference between your Efficiency Into...