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Consider the use of a blow off tube.

I'm doing this tonight, but I will be boiling in the morning. During my research I found that others have done what you are asking successfully. Go for it and report back your results. If you can, consider wrapping your pot with a blanket or two.

I use a 20' chiller and can get a 5 gallon batch cooled in 15-20 minutes.

Congrats on your first AG brew! The Wine and Hop shop has a dial thermometer that's about 8 inches that I use with BIAB. Once you get your BIAB process down, it should take about 4 hours or less, unless you're doing a 90 minute mash and 90 minute boil. I did at 10 gallon batch today (Nierra...

I needed to make some modifications. Rick, a fellow homebrewer, sold me an adapter on ebay that I was able to hook up to my regulator and paintball tank. The same adapter can be used on the taps that you can purchase directly from the company.

I feel your pain, I used to hate bottling. That was before purchasing a vinator, spigot, and referencing this post: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/bottling-tips-homebrewer-94812/ Now I find it enjoyable.

I see it as a way to divert expenditures from one area to another. For example, instead of paying more for extract, I use that money to buy equipment for all grain brewing. Another example, instead of spending money on more yeast, wash the yeast and use the savings to buy more equipment, etc...

I use taps from the Miller/Coors system and do not have a problem with it venting. When I first received the TAD Adapter, I had trouble with leaking (my own fault). Once I solved it, all was well. First I will chill the TAD keg in my fridge, then apply between 10-15 psi (depending on the level...

I find that connecting the TAD to a paintball tank and regulator makes it easier for me to force carbonate. Here is a good calculator: http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/carbonation.html

I've read recommendations for BIAB that one should double the size of the pot based on your final volume (e.g. 20 gallon pot for 10 gallons of beer). I never thought I would do 10 gallon batches, so I did not adhere to this rule, but I was still able to make it work. I can do full volume boils...

Most LHBS set their mill so that 3 vessel brewers avoid a stuck sparge. With BIAB, you don't need to worry about this. Based on my experience, most of the time a double crush improves efficiency. Brew one batch with a single crush and another batch with a double crush and test it yourself.

I second the stirring. How was the crush? Sometimes crushing it twice will help efficiency.

Agreed. I make 10 gallon batches in my 15 gallon pot, but I only use about 11 gallons during the mash. Then in another pot I heat up water to 170 deg/F. After the mashout, I lift the grains and let it hang over the pot (I use a strainer and pulley system). Then I sparge until I reach my pre-boil...

PBR and Schlitz

I'm in

1. Most kit instructions 2. Homebrewing with the purpose to save money 3. Advice to search this forum instead of providing a link

My last IPA looked like that. It was the first time I used washed yeast and irish moss, but I think it was the irish moss that caused it (maybe not). It eventually dropped to the bottom.

+1 I also give it a few days. In addition, in most cases you won't need a starter if you reuse your yeast within a week. Use Mr. Malty to calculate how much yeast you need.

Start with 2-row. Maybe Vienna Malt as well. If you want to get into some English styles, get a sack of Maris Otter.

Did you take a hydrometer reading?