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I would never used any open chemical container. Most likely everythings fine, but you have no way of telling if anythings been tampered with. I'd buy another bottle, I bought mine from McMaster-Carr if you can't find it locally.

Anyone here try using San Pellegrino water bottles? I have 1L glass bottles that can be capped and a Tripel I want to bottle but don't know if the bottle can take the pressure.

It's actually quite the opposite of useless. If he did the exact same experiment with wort the dissolved O2 values would be slightly lower, but he'll get the same exact results, granted he reads the DO meter correctly and he keeps all other variables in check. Your standard beer is only...

Thanks for the reply. I did exactly what you said, threw the keg right in the kegerator while the bottles were at room temperature for 6+ weeks to carbonate. I didn't think this would make a huge difference since the beer was in a secondary carboy for over a month after fermentation was...

I started kegging before the summer to save some time and space. Bottling was just taking too long and having hundreds of bottles around was becoming a problem. I kegged three beers and put them on tap, a Sam Adams winter lager clone, a belgian wit and a Kolsch. With the Belgian I made 6...

Is there any difference in the beer when using larger bottle for Belgians. I've been thinking of getting a bench corker for my Belgian beers, but if aesthetics is the only advantage I'll probably pass.

If you're just going to pour an ounce or two into some water I don't think the gloves and glasses are necessary, but if it makes you more comfortable go ahead. I'd wear gloves if I was going to touch the stock solution by hand, but Phosphoric acid is a weak acid and would just cause...

A bubble comes through the airlock once in a while, but thats it. It doesn't look like anything is going on. I've swirled it a couple times a day so far. The only aeration was shaking the carboy over and over while I was finishing up the 2nd brew that day. I'll keep it at temperature and...

I got a free freezer and decided to start making some lagers. About 2 weeks ago I made a Sam Adams Winter Lager clone. Everything went fine, the lag time wasn't nearly as long as I expected and the beer finished in about 12 days. I decided to re-use the yeast to make a big dopplebock which I...

With a CFC you have to have the cooling water flowing as fast as possible. That is an absolute fact, you can look it up. The "contact time" doesn't mean anything. You need to get rid of the heat as fast as possible. The wort flow is more of a trial and error, decreasing it won't...

I ordered from Austin homebrew and Northern Brewer on the same day and the NB order came a full week before the AHS. It actually arrived before AHS even shipped my order. I'd go with Austin if you're order weighs a lot, otherwise midwest, NB, morebeer will probably be better.

That's all I use for chilling and I have no problem getting to under 70F. I put my 30 ft of copper in a cooler and fill it with ice and water and run the wort through the copper. I keep refilling ice until I'm about half done, then I just put the hose in the cooler and stop using ice. And...

74-78% using a pasta machine. I think I can hit 80% once I get my used to my system and get the crush, pH and temperatures right.

The only 20% = 200,000ppm, compared to the 9-10ppm needed in the wort so there's plenty of oxygen in the headspace. If you don't pitch enough yeast into a big beer it doesn't matter how much O2 you pump in. Yeast grow best in high oxygen, low sugar environments, 50mg/L and lower of...

Exactly what I was looking for, thanks.

I have very little time to brew these days and I'm looking for some info on making different types of beers from one mash. I've read a little about making a high-gravity and low-gravity beer, but I'm also interested in making two styles with similar gravities. Anyone have success with this...

I knew these would be the responses. When I talk about efficiency I mean how well the heat exchanger moves heat. If A moves heat better than B you need less cooling, whether it be water or ice. A CFC is much more effective than an IC. The amount of mis-information on brew sites is absurd...

You don't need a pre-chiller. I really don't understand why people complicate things, just put your copper chiller in a bucket/sink of ice water and run the wort throught the chiller. That's much more efficient than putting it in your wort and running cold water through it, and also more...

A large enough starter will nullify the aeration technique you use. The amount of yeast and it's attenuation decide your FG, not whether or not you used pure oxygen or didn't shake it at all. In any high sugar environment, like wort, yeast would rather produce alcohol over cell...

Theoretically, if your oxygen flow is 1 LPM you only need 8s of oxygen to fully saturate 5 gallons of water. Of course things hardly work perfectly, but I would suspect anything over 20s is overkill.