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about a teaspoon.

I'm assuming you are using extracts instead of all grain, but to get a good sweet beer you need to steep some specialty grains when you boil... Caramel malts work well for this and the higher the number, the sweeter and darker the beer will be.

the best way would be to add a priming solution to all 5 gallons (after racking off of the yeast and trub). To make a priming solution: Boil 3/4 cup of corn sugar (4 oz by weight), or 2/3 cup of white sugar, or 1 and 1/4 cup dry malt extract in 2 cups of water and let it cool.

1.057 is what my brewzor app tells me!

there are a ton of home brewers... the map may get overcrowded... and I'm not sure of the benefit to mapping home brewers would be. Maybe a map of home brewing supply stores and resturaunt equipment stores etc. would be a better fit as an app.

Not sure how it tastes, but the last issue of Zymurgy had a recipe for "Pulqueza" hybrid agave beer, which sounded pretty good. the recipe was 4lb lme, 4lb agave nectar and 2oz cascades with 1lb carapils for steeping.

leaving the beer on the yeast for two weeks will allow the yeast to absorb the diacityl that it produced during the initial fermentation... if the green beer was near the final gravity you shouldn't have a problem. A wit is a very cloudy beer, but that isn't the reason to let it sit for the...

usually a day or two is enough for cold crashing.

cold crashing in the fermentor will allow you to remove more yeast and some suspended solids that cause haze before racking so if that is something you would prefer, then by all means do it before kegging. The oxygen purge you described sounds like what I do, but not sure if its the best way...

The browning is a good sign that it is near picking time. The hop aroma should be at its strongest when the hop is ready to be picked. When you think it is time to harvest, the hop should be papery feeling and light rather than hard. when you crush the cone of the hop you should smell it for...

I'm not sure if you are concerned with clarity or the fact that there are still yeast in solution. With a wheat ale you will likely have a haze from the wheat... which is typical. Yeast will continue to precipitate out of solution and flocculate together as the beer ages. However, the...

Yes it would be 4.5% more dense than water. The hydrometer measures specific gravity, which is a ratio of the density of a substance (wort) to the density of distilled water. Tap water however contains other substances (like calcium etc) that make it more dense than distilled water

I know that some of the suppliers will do the install for you or you can choose to have a custom system shipped to you. here is just one company that does the install: http://www.sbp-breweries.com/

what exactly is this guy using to produce that flame?

You might try putting a sanitized hop bag (have some spares sanitized for when the first one gets full) on the end of your racking cane/ pipe. You can tie it onto the hose/pipe if you like, but keep an eye on the bag so it doesn't get too full.

You can add honey at any time: during the boil, after cold break, after the krausen drops in the primary, at the start of secondary fermentation or prior to bottling. The different times of adding the honey may produce a slightly different taste, but not anything significant. If you wanted to...

Very interesting. I'm not sure I would want to take a bath with beer in it and then a shower though.

You can't really have too much grain in your mash. The amount of sugar you pull off of the grains will be very high in the begining and will gradually get less as you add more water. I'm not sure of your system setup, but my last batch I used 23lbs of grains in a 15.5 gal converted keg...

One thing that you may try is to rinse the berries, add a little fresh water and boil for a short time, then puree the mixture and add it to the secondary fermenter. This is one method of sanitizing the fruit before introducing it to the beer.

It sounds like you are draining most of the water out before you begin adding your sparge water is that correct? I usually add the sparge water when the grainbed is barely suspended by the remaining water in the tun so that the grain bed is always suspended and not compacting as it flows...