Search results

Fortunately/unfortunately, the brew shop does my milling and I get what I get from them. And for some reason they don't allow double milling...smh. i did a batch yesterday and got about 72% efficiency.

So do you over fill the mash volume to compensate for loss by absorption of the grain or do you fill back to get your pre-boil volume?

is 70-74% efficiency typical or acceptable using these techniques? i am not double milling the grain. i also dont do anything about water chemistry which may help my efficiency. anything easy that you can recommend for increasing efficiency?

I just haven't seen people talking much about the pour over technique and don't remember where I got it from. It seems to work fine...I'm usually within a few points of my OG and SG. Rarely right on, but I'm not trying that hard LOL.

Been doing BIAB for about 5 years this way, recently took about a year off and brewed my first beer after coming back about a week and a half ago. I brew 5-6 gallon batches in a 10 gallon Bayou Classic brew kettle with thermometer. I am not looking for perfection but want to make decent beer...

Definitely stick with the blonds. Here's a couple reasons I say that: - They go quickly from grain to glass. You can make a quality Blond in 14-21 days. - They have low ABV and few complications, making them easy to replicate (flavor-wise). - They take well to slight changes in the hopping...

Sometimes when you rack to a secondary, it reinvigorates the yeast and you get a little extra fermentation. Looks like that. The floaties are probably little bits of the yeast cake you sucked up that are floating up with the CO2 from the reinvigorated ferment, or for some other reason. Looks...

yes. hopefully you kept the rest, sealed and refrigerated. Use it soon. Rehydrate for best results. If you want to use it for a 5 gallon batch, make a starter. You'll be overpitching if you do and are making a beer within 1.040 and 1.060, but anything on the higher end of that scale will be...

The kinds with hops, barley, water and yeast. All of them.

I made this with it the other day and at first I didn't like it. The dry hop addition was pretty grassy, but maybe that's normal?? It has since mellowed out and become a pretty nice drinker. 9.5lb 2 row .75 Crystal 10 .5 Special B .5z Cascade - 50 mins .5z Cascade - 45 mins .5z...

Anyone familiar with this hop? By familiar I mean used it more than a couple times and craft recipes because you like it. Any great recipes with it?

Staring at my fresh purchase of grain for an amber hybrid with galaxy and simcoe in between grimacing at my spasming back! NOT what I had in mind. The valium is helping tho...

I use BIAB brewing method. 6 gallons of 200+ degree water down to under 80 in about 30 minutes just submerging the kettle in a red plastic rope handle tub. I place the kettle on a small riser so there's space under it for water to flow. Fill the tub twice with hose water, then add a 20 lb bag...

Long Beach, CA: Congregation alehouse. Great food, excellent relationships with the better micros in LA so always great stuff on tap. Agoura Hills, Ca: Wade's Wines. Its a retail establishment that has a tasting bar with 20-30 taps, all good brews. The owners also just opened a nano next...

Just build it up from a single can. The more you transfer, wait, expose to elements, etc, the more risk involved. Prepare a malt starter and simply pot the dregs into that - in a sanitary container like a glass jar with lid, of course. Once that fermented out, do it again and again until you...

a cordial relationship with Yooper. She knows everything; recipes, processes, styles, etc. :) Get the turkey fryer/banjo burner. You won't be in the kitchen, you can spill, boils lot's of water much faster. Minimum of 2 fermenting buckets. You'll want to have at least 2 beers ready to...

60

I don't know if you're going into business or just asking an interesting question. But reading the replies gave me an idea; why not brew a 20 gallon (or larger) batch and split it into many smaller batches (say, 5 gallons). Then make different beers through your fermentation process. Rack...

It's an infection most likely. There are a lot of ways to get them. For instance, I was racking out of my primary into secondary using the spigot at the bottom of the bucket. Then, I'd syphon from the carboy to the keg. Well, I was syphoning using my mouth (stupid), and getting an infection...

I dry hop right in the primary since racking to a secondary opens you up to infections. There's NO issue leaving a beer in the primary for 3 or 4 weeks. You should be done fermenting in 15-20 days, then you can dry hop for 4 or 5 and it's ready to carbonate. If you have it, use a nylon bag...