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I have no idea how you broke a pinlock post removing the QD to swap kegs. If you broke the disconnect itself, that's nothing to do with the keg, there are complete garbage disconnects on the market for both styles.

Dig the hammered finish on the copper.

Now that is impressive! Love how it's in the spirit of a wooden mash tun, but uses stainless and insulation, still used in the same manner without direct heat. For ease of cleaning and longevity.

Dunno, campfire boiled water has a distinctive smoky taste, strong enough to taste over coffee.

Oh, I missed the 1 week thing lol. Yea a week is far too short.

pH of the beer might be giving your yeast a hard time, patience is key with sour bottle conditioning.

It's not necessary at all.

565 is Dupont I believe, notorious for sticking at that FG. Next time use a starter for such a big beer, and your current options are warming it up hoping it starts back up quickly, or wait it out Dupont will eventually start going on its own again. You can also pitch 3711 (french saison) to...

It doesn't, especially with new lids. What you're describing sounds almost like the spring on the relief is garbage and can't close properly against pressure.

If krausen formed you're fine, more than likely there was not a seal if your airlock never bubbled (obligated to say use a blowoff tube).

Don't let people tell you that you can't get a stuck sparge with BIAB either. Try a 50% rye recipe.

New lids or new valves? If the valve seat in the lid is pitted, scratched, dented, or otherwise deformed then you can change valves til the cows come home and it will continue to leak. If they sent you new lid assemblies and those both leaked, they got a bad batch of lids, or you got really...

Straining doesn't prevent chill haze, use whirlfloc. If you are stalling out, make sure your thermometer is calibrated correctly.

City water is treated at the plant, there's no guarantees how it comes out of your own plumbing. This is why you hear of boil-water advisories sometimes, and further city water usually won't make you, a human, sick, there's no guarantees it's free of anything that can hurt your beer.

There's nothing you did wrong that can be done better, if you can't do full boils you will always have skewed gravity reading. For a kit, as long as you measure your water volumes properly, you don't really need to take an OG reading, it will always be correct if your volumes are correct (and...

Bru'n water works perfectly fine for BIAB, just reduce the sparge amount to zero and put the mash volume at your full volume. If you are using RO water, your water pH would be approx 7.0 and you might as well put zeros for all the minerals (it's in the single digits usually with RO water).

No, I am saying use T-Tape on the pipe thread joints that screw into the manifold. Do not T-Tape flare joints (swivel nut joints).

Something like this, I figure you're in the USA so you'd need a different supplier. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32066&cat=1,42363,42348 The rare earth magnets wont pull off the side, but they can tend to slide downward if someone set a full glass on your drip tray. The discs...

While I somewhat trust I won't get ill from tap water, I don't believe it's sanitary enough to use untreated for brewing, I know there's nasty biofilms that build up inside the aerators of faucets on a regular basis. Giving that fungi or bacteria a rich media to reproduce in doesn't seem like a...

I don't think its overblown, its a minor inconvenience that takes very little time (1/2 cup water will chill down in a minute or two). Compared to all the time to brew and ferment a batch, it doesn't seem worth it not to.