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I don't recall anyone addressing whether the primary yeast cake can tolerate near freezing temperatures if you decide to crash cool and want to reuse your yeast, which was my first question. Maybe you can show me where that was answered in this thread a dozens times.

When is it appropriate to shake your primary? What is the purpose (logic) behind doing this? Is more better? Is there a critical window? Point after which you never shake? If you adopt the primary only method, will shaking it replace the movement of the beer that same claim is the main...

What is the best way to carbonate your beer for a competition? Carbonate in a keg, then transfer to a few bottles. Or, bottle condition the ones you will be sending to competition? Do you risk deductions if the judge pours out yeast into the tasting glass?

Here are my thoughts on dry hopping. I want to wait to get the hops into the beer after there is sufficient alcohol to avoid problems with any contaminants from the hops (and bag). I also want to get the hops into the carboy before all fermentation activity is done so that the layer of CO2...

I've read a lot of methods for dry hopping, but not real explanation of why its done when its done. When is the best time to dry hop? What are the merits and flaws of the following times? 1) right when you pitch the yeast? 2) right after high krausen? 3) right after primary fermentation...

I think we absolutely are still on topic. If we are to accept the new paradigm of life without secondary fermenters, the there will inevitably be some questions in regards to "how do I accomplish what I have always done, while eliminating secondary fermenters." I hope those who lent there...

Also, if I choose to skip the secondary process, can I just dry-hop in the keg? If I use a sanitized tea ball, then how long can I leave it in the keg? Week? Month? Whole time there is beer in the keg?

If you do want to crash cool your beer to speed up the process AND reuse your yeast, then is it better to transfer to a secondary first? I know yeast does fine at 40F in the fridge, but will the yeast cake tolerate the 29-30F temperature of my cooling freezer?

So, how do you accomplish getting fermentable sugars, low final gravity and still having a beer with a little roundness to the body. Not wee heavy body, but a sufficient backbone.

No and No. I'm thinking of trying the mash pH buffers available. We have fairly alkaline water in Louisville, but folks in my homebrew club don't seem to have a problem with pH.

I just switch between stirring and recirculating a pot at a time by hand for the 90 minutes. I only add heat for about 1 minute every 15 minutes of mash time.

As far as thermometer calibration, is the theory that I am mashing to hot due to an wrong thermometer reading? I would imagine even if off by 2-3F, shooting for 148-150 leaves me at 145-153 which is not that high. This shouldn't be enough to make unfermentable wort, should it?

66-68F 8 gallon stainless steel pot with false bottom and ss ball valve. Thermometer reads 212F at boiling, mash at 150 is consistent with my cooking thermometer. Starters are made from washed yeast from previous batches. They are mixed with 500ml of 1.040 wort and spun on a stir-plate...

I cannot seem to get my beers to ferment low in gravity. I read articles about people who get their 8 and 9% big-bodied beer to ferment low. Triples that ferment down to 1.010 (or lower). I've seen some 10% stouts that go down to 1.018. What is the trick? I always pitch a starter. It...

First off, I love brew pal. Kudos! When I change the temperature of my mash, say from 154 to 148, I would expect the final gravity estimate to change as this mash schedule will produce more fermentable sugars, but the FG does not change. Also, sometimes I need more FG for to match a...

I love brewpal. Wish I could get it for my laptop. It has a nice function, where once you dial in a recipe, it will tell you what BJCP style is matches. You can also use this function in reverse to dial in a specific BJCP style. Best $1.99 you'll spend, IMO.

I have brewpal on my iPhone, and one of the features I like very much is the 'compare to BJCP style' to tell me exactly what style my recipe falls under. This way, I can dial in a recipe to fit a category for a BJCP style, as well as tell me why a particular beer recipe does not fit into a...

I use brewpal on my iPhone for recipe calculations. It allows me to calculate FWH IBU's and it uses the defined boil time for calculating how many IBU's will come from the FWH. Thus, the FWH should provide a full boil level of IBU's from the hops. I am not saying a bit more long boil hops (not...

Just to bump a good thread.... I use brewpal on my iPhone for recipe calculations. It allows me to calculate FWH IBU's and it uses the defined boil time for calculating how many IBU's will come from the FWH. Thus, the FWH provide a full boil level of IBU's from the hops. So, for option 2...

It seems pretty easy to calculate total IBU's as well as malt to hop balance. But how do you calculate the appropriate ratio of bittering to flavor to aroma hop usage (for a specific style)? For example, if I am targeting 70 IBU in an IPA, how to I decide on how much to use on the long boil...