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A buddy of mine brewed a porter that finished around 1030 so we have been contemplating attenuation rates and there's something we're wondering: To truly get an accurate measure of attenuation and/or FG, shouldn't you calculate it based on the amount of fermentable sugars and not the total OG...

I definately agree that you need to thicken your mash and increase your sparge amounts. But here's a couple other thoughts based on my own past struggles with efficiency. Your best bet is to use gravity and volume readings taken pre-boil. That way you get your true mash system efficiency...

Here's another place in Cleveland: http://www.thebrewkettle.com/ It's a brew pub / restaurant / brew-on-premesis. I haven't made it up there yet, but have a couple friends who have and liked it. SP

For those who take pre-boil hydrometer readings, I'm curious how you do it. For some reason I've never fully trusted the hydrometer correction calculations in ProMash. I have absolutely no reason not to, but still don't. Therefore, I've always waited for my hydrometer sample to cool before...

I have the same problem in Ohio. Local municipality only checks and reports on contaminants. They sounded like they had no idea what I was talking about when I asked about mineral content. Surprised me too. Does anyone know of any kits you can buy to test it yourself? Most of what I've...

"How to Brew" is a good reference and certainly there's web based calculators and software that'll do it too. But to summarize the manual calculation: 1) Measure the gravity and volume of the wort prior to the boil. 2) Determine the theoretical yield based on your ingredients and wort...

Wait...are we talking about mashing or sparging?! Pour sparge water and mash it? Mash too dilute? You've confused me. Anyway, no, I don't pour the entire sparge water, I do it in two equal....... batches. :D

Hi Brewman. Having just read this whole thread I think there are a couple points worth mentioning. In the OP, you were questioning why the claims that batch is quicker and easier and ultimately made it clear that you're searching for fact, not opinion. So, this may not all be fact, but...

Are you sure your probe thermo is correct? What kind are you using? Is it one of those intended for use in the oven like you can get at Target, etc? I haven't had much luck with the one I have. In my case it seemed to start out at the correct temp, but at the end of an hour it said my mash...

The process you use for sparging with PM is really a matter of choice and ultimately equipment. With the right equipment, PM sparging can be identical to AG sparging. But since you're dealing with a smaller, more manageable amount of grain, you can use simpler techniques for PM sparging. On...

Yep, ProMash calculated 18 pts from DME for my recipe. But where I'm confused is with the efficiency specifics portion of the session report. It says: ******************************* Actuals achieved were: Actual Points From Mash: 39.65 Actual Mash System Efficiency: 78%...

Yesterday I brewed a PM recipe that used 7 lbs of grain and 2 lbs of DME. I've never had stellar efficiencies - typically about 65% - but based on yesterday's results I wonder if I've been using ProMash correctly. At 65% and 5.0 gal batch size ProMash predicted 33 points from the mash and 18...

I had a feeling someone would ask that. I've already got the DME and want to use it up. The time after this will likely be AG. As for the over sparging, I thought that wasn't a concern with batch sparging:confused: Thanks, SP

I've been doing mini mashes with batch sparging for a while now but have always had to do a partial wort boil. I recently got a kettle big enough to let me do a full wort boil and will soon be brewing an Anchor Steam clone with the following grains: 5lbs 2-row 1 lb crystal 60 2.25 lbs DME...

I use the One Step no-rinse sanitizer, so it's probably not that. I do soak my carboys in bleach water before use but always do a thorough rinse followed by a soak in One Step. But if the problem came from my carboys I wouldn't expect the original samples to have turned out OK. So I'm...

I think I've encountered my first dose of contaminated homebrew. I did a clone of Pete's Wicked that I initially thought turned out pretty good. I kegged most of it and bottled about 12. I gave a couple each to some friends and they both liked it. After that it really went down hill. It got...

Don't overlook the fact that the CP filler will still result in less foaming and overall less exposure to air as you fill the bottle. If you've got one, I'd go ahead and use it.

Oh, I didn't realize you wanted to argue :p . I wouldn't expect any difference in the amount of air exposure from the removal of a CP filler vs. a normal filler. The size of the tubing is similar so as you remove the tube, it will be displaced by about the same amount of air. In other words...

I don't own one, but I've read about them, so someone correct me if I'm wrong. Most counter-pressure bottle fillers actually pressurize the bottle with CO2 first. Then you turn a valve and it fills the bottle with beer from the keg. This accomplishes two things: 1) Filling a pressurized bottle...

OK, so more headspace requires more sugar. Sounds like you're right...the easiest way to do it is just prime the keg with the normal bottle amount. I like that option because I can put the priming sugar in the keg, rack into the keg, then fill the bottles right from the keg. That way I...