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Thanks guys. I probably wasn't clear. Only the lines were pressurized to 15psi then the valve on the CO2 cylinder was closed. The lines were not connected to the kegs, so back pressure from the keg can't explain the increase in pressure. It just seems odd to me. Wondering if maybe there is...

BLUF: Bought a new regulator after trying everything else to determine where the leak is. Hooked it up, pressurized the line to 15psi and turned off the CO2. When I checked this morning the high pressure gauge read zero while the low pressure gauge had increased to 20psi. Two questions: 1)...

Ouch. I guess I need to learn to read:drunk:

Do you use whole hops or pellets? I ask because I'm wondering if the false bottom gets plugged with the pellets. I'm planning on upgrading my kettle and love this idea.

I can't speak for Briess, but I did use 100% Munton's extra light to make a German style pilsner. While it was on par, it was a tad bit darker than a good pils. The flavor was wonderful and the color was close enough for me. On the other hand I used the same Munton's extra light in a partial...

I figured it wasn't going to drop any more. It's just that I've never seen the yeast floating on the top like this. Any ideas why it's not settling to the bottom?

I brewed a maple brown ale 13 days ago. There was no airlock activity for a couple of days so I opened the fermenting bucket and saw a nice layer of krausen so I left it alone until today. When I opened the fermenter to rack it to the secondary there was still a nice thick layer of yeast on...

I pull up a stool and have a seat while bottling. Saves both my back and my feet.

Amen to that. I can't write wort a darn, especially with that damn sharpie. Printable labels it is for me.

I found that I couldn't get my wort back up to a boil after adding late extract. Instead, I just add my late extract at flameout and let it steep for about 10 minutes to kill any nasties still in the extract before placing the brewpot in an ice bath.

I do the blanket thing and it works fine for me. Others on here have cut a piece of styrofoam to fit inside their mash tuns and placed it directly on top of the mash. Seems to me that would work great, but I haven't tried it.

This may sound wierd, but I find that Sam Adams bottles are really easy to delabel with oxyclean except for the Sam Adams Light which are a major PITA. Anybody else notice this? I'm guessing they use a different glue or maybe bottle them in a different plant.

Let me see if I understand this. Are some of you recommending lagering in the primary - on the trub? My routine has been to let fermentation run it's course (3 to 5 weeks) then rack to a carboy for lagering. My temp control isn't fine enough to allow me to lower the temp slowly. I ferment in...

I've got a co-worker that used to brew. He gives me hell about being inpatient when I tell him I'm sampling bottles at 4 weeks. He thinks it takes a minimum of 8 weeks in the bottle to properly condition. You know what? He's right!! The longer they sit (up to about 6 months) the better they...

This, my friend, is the best advice in this thread. Have patience and give it time. All will be well and you will have beer in a few weeks.

Keep us posted on the 9,000ft hop growing. I can't get anything to grow here so I haven't even considered trying hops. Sometimes it sucks living at altitude, but I wouldn't want to live anywhere else.

Your first suggestion is good, but I wouldn't stir the yeast that's in the secondary. The point of the secondary is to clear the beer. Stirring it back up would defeat the purpose.

No need for more yeast. I had a lager sit for 4 months in the secondary and it carbed up fine. I experimented by adding yeast to 1/2 the batch during bottling. The portion that I added yeast to did carb a bit faster - 3 weeks vs. 5 - but it also had significantly more sediment. Bottle...

I did that, but thought it was a pain. My handwriting is pretty crappy and the small size of the caps made it difficult to mark them legibly. I bought some printable round labels and downloaded an MS Word template and print them that way. Works like a charm and I can color code each batch.