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Not trying to resurrect a dead thread, just wanted to add if it helps. Laurel bottled gas shut down a while ago, so I started using Poist Gas Company. Right around 32 and rt 1. They fill my aluminum 5lb bottles for about $18 per fill. Nice people, good service. More out of my way the LBG was...

Assuming you're actually boiling the brew, just add them right in. if you have a "tea-bag", or hop bag, use it to make clean up a bit easier, but I see no need to complicate the process by preparing your hops separately. if the hops you want to use are pellets, you may end up with them clogging...

i do e-BIAB, and i actually custom made my metal basket. I used solid stainless sheet to make the side wall, and perforated stainless to make the bottom, so all the work flows down, rather than out. Also, since the holes are small, removes the need for a bag. for Recirc, I have a simple pickup...

I do e-BIAB, and when im done boiling, a LOT of my trub goes into the fermenter, just because thats how my process works. But, I always transfer to secondary once the vigorous fermentation ends, and I haven't noticed anything bad about doing it that way. Soooo, maybe you finish the boil and...

well, im proven wrong. and now that i look again, its on amazon. if i ever get the kit again, ill take note of the amount thats given in the packet. their directions are basically to add whatever amount you want. I'd guess it was a less than a tablespoon, but again im only guessing. If i do...

If you're talking about the cider house kits, they use acesulfame potassium, also known as AceK. the cider from that kit tasted great, but expensive since i can make it from applejuice and a yeast pack for half the cost on my own, but i can't for the life of me find that sweetener anywhere...

That diagram looks great to me, with one small exception... The placement of the ammeter will only measure the current going into the pid, which will be nearly nothing. If you we're hoping to measure the current for the element, or the whole system, you wold have to place the ammeter sensor...

i noticed the indicator for the 'system power' is in series with the contactor coil (the power goes through the light, then the contactor). Pretty sure they should be in parallel, so the power goes through both the light and coil side-by-side. also, it looks like you're switching the neutral...

not trying to start an argument, just sharing... when a device is rated for AMPs, thats the rating. the voltage will change the total POWER in a system, but the heat dissipated in any one component relies exclusively on the amps, and the resistivity of that component. safety guidelines dictate...

if no one else found it, i think you mismatched the element plug to the socket on the control box. i see an L14 receptacle (4 contacts) and i believe thats an L6 plug (3 contacts), though its hard to see for sure in the element picture if im right. winner?

Thats why I'm seriously considering putting a sheet of the bathroom wall stuff on the bottom, its basically a flexible sheet of plastic, about 1/4 inch thick meant to go up in place of tile in showers and the like. should help alot with distributing loads.

I know what you mean. Im a computer nerd too, but my father in law is more than willing to teach me, and i think when i pick this project up it will be my time to try and get at least a little experience under my belt.

rather than doing a full platform, i was planning to make a square from some angle iron that would allow the freezer to sit just inside the upward lip. then weld the plates to that square frame, and attach the wheels to that. the feet of the freezer would probably rest on the plates, rather than...

Looks like a nice cleaner. Sign me up!!!!!

another thing to look out for... i have seen a lot of wall transformers with non-serviceable fuses inside them (non-serviceable because the plastic case is sealed). I'm not saying that adapter had a fuse, but its possible that if it did, and you shorted the wires a tall, then it was boned. It...

yes... yes it does.

that all makes sense. The only reason I mentioned the gauge was because I've seen jacked 3 wire where the 3rd un-insulated ground wire was definitely a smaller gauge (found it at home depot, so it can't be terribly uncommon). but just as every knows in this forum, when it comes to electricity...

Walker, Sorry if my post was wrong, that was just was i was told, and made enough sense to me. Would it be appropriate to mention that you should at least check the 3rd wire for its gauge? I would be afraid that if it was a 3-wire cable pulled for the dryer, that the 3rd wire might be a...

sorry, i have to mention this... does your dryer outlet have 3 or 4 terminals? If its only 3 terminals, then the one that is not hot is ground, NOT neutral. if yours has 4, then you're gravy. If its a 3 wire outlet, the you REALLY should not try to use one side for 120V. find a normal 120V...

are you using your rims tube for anything other than maintaining mash temps? I'm building mine now, and have yet to actually use it, but I'm only using a 1500W element, and I'm sure that is still plenty of power to bump the water a few degrees here and there. 4500W/5500W is great for boiling and...