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It absolutely is. You could save upwards of $.50 / pound on grain...or more. Between buying in larger bags and then crushing it yourself. I save $0.70/pound on marris otter.

I've used both a braid and bazooka screens. The bazooka was hands down better for me, it even comes with the 1/2 npt fitting. By the time you're done mucking about with a braid, fitting, inserting a spring, the cost of a bazooka is insignificant and you know everything is rigid and stainless...

Higher volt power supply will get you more power to be sure. However, a 2 - 3 inch vortex is plenty awesome. You're cultivating yeast, not making a margarita.

I took a reading off the stem, it maxed out at about 250 degrees, and seem to dissipate fast... meaning it didn't make the lamp or the wires hot.

Thanks for the reply. Mine seems very bright. The lamp part is fine and cool, its the stem that was hot. I imagine there is something inside stepping down the voltage to the LED, that's probably whats getting hot. I'll run mine again tonight and get a temp reading off the stem.. maybe...

Hi, I loved your idea of putting the indicator light in the gang box on the kettle. I ordered the same lamp you have. Are you running them 220v? The website said 110/220... but on the lamp it says 110. I wired it up 220 and it lights up fine. However after having it on for 10 minutes...

I have one of these... works great. http://www.williamsbrewing.com/MINI-DUAL-C02-REGULATOR-P2650C148.aspx

OMG HBT Wins AGAIN! I just bought the same motor from the same guy and freaked out when I saw the 3phase. I asked if I could cancel and HE forwarded ME this link! Brilliant, I'm getting all the same parts. Thanks!! BTW, where did you get your L bracket?

I want to move from 10gal to 15gal batches. How big of a kettle do I need? 20? 25? 30? Morebeer has a 26gal size one... but blichmann jumps from 20 to 30... 20 seems too small. Thanks.

Try a better wind block. I had great success by making one. Most hardware stores will sell small sheet metal for just a few bucks... buy some and bolt it on.

Carbonic Acid Carbonation does change the beer.

I've used the exact same 70qt for a year now. I used to wonder if it was just too big for me, as I did a lot of 5gal batches. Then two weeks ago I did a 10 gallon, 1.070 OG beer, and went with a 1.5 qt/lb ratio and filled it! :) I was happy I went with the larger one that day. It holds...

Count me in!

IIRC, from a BrewStrong pod cast... the temperature at which you cold crash is more important than the duration. 1 day at 30 degrees is more effective than 3 days at 36 degrees. Your plan sounds fine, just take that into account.

How long are you fermenting? For most every ale I brew I do 3-week primary, then cold-crashed & into the keg for 3 weeks to slow carb at 12 psi. I've been real happy with the 3 + 3 schedule, with things really good at the 4th week in the keg.

Hey all, I'm in Melbourne on business for the week from Chicago and was looking for a good place to grab a beer on Saturday. I'm staying in the South Yarra area, near the Prahran Market if that helps at all. Thanks!!

I pitch, then put on the airlock. I rock until air stops sucking into the fermentor as seen through the airlock. Seems like a reasonable visual measurement.

Here is a good bit of information to check out that could help you decide. http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php I just gave up my 20' CFC for a 50' IC with Whirlpool recirculation after reading this. The CFC preformed awesome, but the 'set it and forget it' method of the IC works for me...

Found this thread and decided to get a Termapen. They're having a sale for the next two weeks. http://www.thermoworks.com/products/thermapen/splashproof_thermapen.html

Do any of the options have built-in plastic gaskets? The guy at my gas shop frowned on ones with the plastic attached, saying they wear out over time. He recommended a regulator that had a flat/smooth fit and using the disposable graphite washer gasket deals each time you swap out the tank...