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Except that it's rated for 5-220V DC.. The same person sells the 240-480V 40A versions as well, which I bought from them.. Works great with my 5500W/240V element... Took a little less than 2 weeks to arrive from the time I ordered...

For my touchscreen, I used C++ Builder and a component library called iocomp, because I had them available... The gauge is just an image with an needle overlaying it, scaling it correctly was a little tricky, but not too bad... It's still work in progress.....

I bought the 3 tap tower from micromatic... The thing that the handle attaches to came bend a bit... Called them and they overnighted a stainless steel replacement (original was brass)... I later upgraded to Perlick faucets... If you can do this with the order, I'd recommend it... If you...

Actually, it is a newer faucet, so it looks like I can't adjust the restrictor plate... So it looks like I'll need some beer gas at higher pressure... I'll call around and hopefully find some place that will fill a CO2 bottle with beer gas, but will still need to buy a new tank and reg so...

So it looks like I'll just buy a nitro tank and regulator then... Will pushing the rest of the beers with the beer gas through the normal faucets effect the flavor if I still carb with just CO2? Of course I know I'd need a secondary regulator to keep the PSI down on the normal faucets...

From what I can find reading through the forums and a few other sites is that it seems like there are 2 options for using a stout faucet... Current for my set up, I have a triple faucet tower with 1 CO2 tank and the standard double gauge regulator, 2 perlicks, and 1 stout faucuet. Not sure...

I'd add extra ball lock fittings for filling/tranfering and cleaning... It's also nice to have some extra kegs for conditioning/storage, so you have some on deck when you empty a keg..

I usually keg, but on occasion I bottle with a bucket and an autosiphon... The siphon usually sits right on the edge/corner of the bottom of the bucket and gets almost everything out of it... Never had any problem with losing the siphon.. My vote is for getting an autosiphon. I can't...

I used some balusters from home depot, cut the nice round pieces I wanted, sanded them down and attached them to a flat pieces that I routered the edges and embedded a piece of metal to to stick on that printable magnetic paper to.. Little bit of stain and polyurethane to finish it off...

10 more gallons for me... This is always a big hit with the non-craft beer drinkers... So 895.5

They call that chill haze... Something about tannin-proteins that are soluble at room temperature, but not at refrigerated temps.. (from Papazian)... It doesn't effect the flavor at all... Using a teaspoon of irish moss (scroll down to clarifiers) in the last 15 minutes of your boil should...

I've pretty much abandon the USB idea since the only benefit I see to it is that it would power the controller, but since it can only supply 500mA, that's not enough to drive the relays and solenoids, so I'll probably just stick with rs232... Since I know nothing of Java, I'll probably...

For extract, since the volume is usually lower, I just pour through funnel/strainer... If you want to do full boils though, I'd consider drilling a hole in your kettle and using a weldless fitting/ball valve with some type of SS braid or manifold... After the wort is cooled, you just...

I also have the 11 gal pot, and a 20 ft wort chiller which works fine with 5 gal of wort left after the boil... It only takes around 10 minutes to cool it down to the 70's (with outside temps around 30, might take longer in the summer, dunno yet). I usually stand there and shake the...

I don't remember where I got mine, I've had a bag of 30 of them for a while... They're NTC, so non-linear... I'm thinking about switching to the LM34 for ease of use and accuracy... I've used Digikey for years for all my electronic stuff...

I have this pot and I use it for full boils for 5 gal AG batches... I made a SS 'manifold' with some weldless fixtures and it works great... The only problem is the price... I picked it up with a burner and a bunch of other turkey type stuff for around $98 at Costco, but I think I've seen...

Nope, 2 weeks in primary then straight to keg for forced carbonation/refrigeration...

I made this same recipe for my 2nd AG, and just did it again last weekend... I did 50%/50% for the ratios and ended up getting pretty low efficiencies both times with batch sparging/SS braid... The end product still turned out great, and it fermented down quite a bit more than I expected...

Do you plan on any re-circulation for clarification? or just hoping that without stiring, you won't disturb the grain bed too much...

For those who do this, is there any problems with having to wait to get the wort back up to a boil after adding the non-boiling wort? Or do you just add small amount at a time to keep the boil going?