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Well, except for it being a little sweet, batch #1 tasted decent going into the bottles. I didn't notice any significant off flavors. It just didn't attenuate enough. I initially thought it was a problem with my mash, but since the same thing is happening with the extract batch I consider...

I did an initial starter for the first batch and built it up significantly over the week prior to pitching. Then before I pitched I put some of that starter into a second starter and built it up. In both cases I'm talking over a liter of starter. The extract batch had a smaller starter...

I've brewed 3 pale ales with SGs of 1.050, 1.048, and 1.061. The first 2 were AG and the 3rd was a extract with adjuncts tea bagged. In all three cases I got a strong krausen. The AGs had a lag time of about 6 hours, the extract, which had a smaller started, had a lag time of about 12 hours...

You can use the same calculations to determine what your SG will be at the end of the boil as long as you know the gravity and volume prior to the boil and your boil off rate. That way you can add a little DME at the start of the boil if you're going to be low.

Another alternative to buying a pot is to get a pump. That way you can use the kettle to heat your sparge water and recirculate

So your initial strike gave you a 1.5 qt/lb ratio which is fine. Adding the additional 1/2 gal would have have raised it to 1.7 qt/lb, which is still fine. So I don't think it should make a significant, or even detectable difference in the outcome. As far as your OG is concerned...

Thanks. I flattened the tube a bit since I didn't use a mandrel but it came out reasonably well. I needed to round the ends some with a pair of pliers and needed some "persuasion" to get the compression fittings on, but I'm reasonably happy with the results

It's easier to bend if hot but that's not the reason for freezing it with water inside. The ice or sand is to help keep the tubing from crimping during the bend. Heating the metal aneals it which reduces the hardness

I went for it and attempted to bend the SS coil around a Cornelius Keg. I didn't fill it with sand, but just used some care. I put the coil over the keg and clamped it between my legs. I went real slow, clamping the left side of the tubing against the keg with my left hand and using the right...

Instead of waiting until the end, check your gravity pre-boil. If you know your rate of boil off you can adjust the gravity going into the kettle by adding water at the start of the boil so you hit your desired value going into the fermenter. If your gravity pre-boil is way off then you'll...

It's hard to say what happened because you didn't include your grain bill. Without that we can't calculate your mash consistency. I don't think tannin extraction should be impacted by this if you didn't get your mash or sparge temperatures above 170F, also assuming you didn't have too fine of...

I "think" everyone's over thinking it a bit. :) No matter how much you put on, once you tighten down the bolts/screws on your SSR which attaches it to the heatsink the extra is going to squeeze out (ergo: use just enough, and not a bit more). Just don't put a lot on and make a mess. And be...

+1 on RV-grade garden hose. It's food grade, so why go complicated when simple will do the job. Save the complicated solutions for things which will really improve your process.

I wouldn't try to make the bends at the top and bottom. I'm planning on using compression fittings into an elbow. Also, my coil is going to be installed into the pot with 1/2" couplings soldered (or welded if I can find someone to do it) into the side of the pot. I'd be interested in your...

Yeah, I've seen a number like that. Unfortunately it has a 3" bend radius, which is too small. I'm thinking of building a makeshift roller bender. Or possibly an inexpensive conduit bender would work. I believe a lot of them have a 5" radius which would be just about right.

What kind of bender do you use? I've been looking at them, but unless you go higher end it doesn't look like you can control the bend radius.

Make sure you have the Pump OUT facing up. If you don't have that then you're not going to flood the pump with fluid and it won't pump. Also, make sure if you have a valve on the output that it's open while priming so that air won't be trapped inside the pump.

I've watched the video but it doesn't speak to the issues of bending SS which is a lot more difficult

I've seen a number of threads on here regarding the difficulty of bending SS, but they seem to be related more to dip tubes. Has anyone tried bending 1/2"" .020 wall SS tubing around a Cornie Keg, and what difficulties have you had? Should this be filled with sand first, or is that only...

I found some of those 90deg street elbows on eBay for a very good price. However, they're specified as being cast SS. Would this be a problem? I would think that most of these from other suppliers would be cast anyway...I can't imagine they would be machined. But, it caused me some concern.